Starter/Header fitment issue

[DynamicXX]

So, I did do an extensive search on this topic, with mixed answer's, hoping this will pull some info for my application: 1969 Coronet, 383, 4 speed, Hooker Long Tube Header's. Power steering. I purchased a new mid 90's Dakota mini-Starter, after reading reviews for this upgrade. (Original starter was showing its age, and figured as I had the engine/trans out might as well do the swap). Starter is not fitting as it's hitting the header. Some post's mention the Power Master 9523,other's saying to go back to factory/or original starter with heat wrap, etc. Any advice for "my" set-up? I had the Header's Ceramic Coated, so not too keen on taking a mallet to it...

 

[70 sublime]

Is the starter hitting the pipes or just the place where the wires hook to the starter ?
Most mini starters have an extension thing on the terminals that the wire hooks to that you can take off and hook the wires dirctly to the starter to make more space

 

[DynamicXX]

Is the starter hitting the pipes or just the place where the wires hook to the starter ?
Most mini starters have an extension thing on the terminals that the wire hooks to that you can take off and hook the wires dirctly to the starter to make more space

Starter is hitting the pipe. I have the wire terminal extension installed.

 

[493 Mike]

I had to clearance my TTI's for main cap cross bolt head interference. After talking to a rep at TTI, I dented them and used a touch up with silver header paint. Pretty good match and they fit now. I used a arbor press with a half round piece of 1 1/4" bar stock to control the indent process.
Mike

 

[DynamicXX]

I had to clearance my TTI's for main cap cross bolt head interference. After talking to a rep at TTI, I dented them and used a touch up with silver header paint. Pretty good match and they fit now. I used a arbor press with a half round piece of 1 1/4" bar stock to control the indent process.
Mike

Good info. I have the motor partly out, Header off and starter out. Marked Header where starter was hitting, just working up the courage to get out the tools to finish the job...hoping a high heat paint will suffice over the ceramic coating, not visible ,etc I will be the only one who knows, but still...

 

[ckessel]

I had to clearance my TTI's for main cap cross bolt head interference. After talking to a rep at TTI, I dented them and used a touch up with silver header paint. Pretty good match and they fit now. I used a arbor press with a half round piece of 1 1/4" bar stock to control the indent process.
Mike

I have TTI's for my 65 same as Mike due to the Indy block. I ordered mine uncoated though so I could clearance them where there were issues. They are coated now. On yours since they're coated, a plastic mallet works well. You could also put something on the needed area and hit it with a hammer so you won't affect the thermal coating. Unless it's really dented, then you'll need to do some sort of touchup. I did use the 9523 Powermaster starter as it was either it or the one from RobMc. The 9523 is clockable with 4 possibilities. I chose the best one and went from there. The oe mini unit was a no go due to the engine combo.

 

[DynamicXX]

I have TTI's for my 65 same as Mike due to the Indy block. I ordered mine uncoated though so I could clearance them where there were issues. They are coated now. On yours since they're coated, a plastic mallet works well. You could also put something on the needed area and hit it with a hammer so you won't affect the thermal coating. Unless it's really dented, then you'll need to do some sort of touchup. I did use the 9523 Powermaster starter as it was either it or the one from RobMc. The 9523 is clockable with 4 possibilities. I chose the best one and went from there. The oe mini unit was a no go due to the engine combo.

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So, dived in and hammered out enough space so I have about 1/4" space between pipe and starter. Had some heat wrap, not sure how effective it is, but cant hurt in my books...now have too wait until Monday to get new Gasket's...

 

[RJRENTON]

WOW!!!......That close proximity to the header tube has got to cook the starter to a "well done" .....all that concentrated heat will deteriorate the starter's internal windings insulation......does anyone know to what degree of insulation is used?? Typically, grade "H" insulation was the highest thermal insulation available (lesser grades of Class B or Class D....both of which have lower thermal maximums)....from the formvar coaating on the wires to the fiberglas/nomex on the armature windings....but nothing can survive the constant heat, and overtime, and eventually the starter will fail. As overexposure to heat has a cumulative degradation effect.....Are the headers a necessity or just a want to have.......for a street car or collector car....are the headers really necessary?.....just curious......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON

 

[493 Mike]

Bob,
It's like building a 500 cu in motor and putting a 2 Bbl carb on it.
I used a MSD starter on my 540 and had my personal seamstress sew up a sleeve of high heat material to slide over the starter.
Mike

 

[T Brashears]

65 coronet 383 heddman 1-3/4 clockable powermaster,still had to ding a tube and wrap heat shield around solenoid area

 

[T Brashears]

I can get that starter out through the top without loosening the header though.

 

[RJRENTON]

Bob,
It's like building a 500 cu in motor and putting a 2 Bbl carb on it.
I used a MSD starter on my 540 and had my personal seamstress sew up a sleeve of high heat material to slide over the starter.
Mike

I'm not sure of the analogy.....what was the material used....fiberglass, nomex, ceramic fiber.... ???....it's thermal resistance rating.....it sounds it's a temporary "fix".....but electrical insulation systems and devices when exposed to excessive heat, will degrade over time...to failure. An example, I had to force cool a 50 hp crane hoist motor, operating 24-7, to prevent premature failure......but with all precautions taken, class H winding insulation and forced cooling, the longest time interval between failures was 6 months (+/-).......heat degradation is inevitable. I wish you well with your fix........
BOB RENTON