Stock steel valve covers - studs instead of bolts?

[moparedtn]

Wow, this suddenly appears to be a potential challenge based on what you guys are saying here.
I honestly don't know what heads are on this 1972 engine - I'd assume they're the stock ones, but I haven't
honestly looked.
Perhaps the bolt angle issue won't be as severe using steel valve covers?
About to find out...

 

[streetwedg]

Why is this so hard? My 65 streetwedge 426 came with all studs in the valve covers.valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets. Most All stock engines came with two studs in each cover. Use stock studs in all holes.

 

[BeeKool]

Wow, this suddenly appears to be a potential challenge based on what you guys are saying here.
I honestly don't know what heads are on this 1972 engine - I'd assume they're the stock ones, but I haven't
honestly looked.
Perhaps the bolt angle issue won't be as severe using steel valve covers?
About to find out...

If it's a 72 and came from a motor home or truck there's a chance they are 452s.

 

[67 coronet]

do what i did. stud the exhaust manifold side and bolt the intake side. vc slips right on.

 

[moparedtn]

Why is this so hard? My 65 streetwedge 426 came with all studs in the valve covers.valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets. Most All stock engines came with two studs in each cover. Use stock studs in all holes.

I don't reckon anyone said it was "hard", certainly not me since I haven't even tried it yet....
BTW, these factory chrome covers are indeed notched on the bottom for the tabs on the gaskets, just like the painted steel ones were.

 

[moparedtn]

If it's a 72 and came from a motor home or truck there's a chance they are 452s.

Probably.

do what i did. stud the exhaust manifold side and bolt the intake side. vc slips right on.

Might wind up that way. We'll see once the stuff gets here.

 

[moparedtn]

Not too shabby for 50 years old, eh?

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[streetwedg]

I don't reckon anyone said it was "hard", certainly not me since I haven't even tried it yet....
BTW, these factory chrome covers are indeed notched on the bottom for the tabs on the gaskets, just like the painted steel ones were.
View attachment 641155

Those valve covers are not correct for a 1965 426 wedge. They should have the early style pvc valve and slip on just like oil cap. My valve covers are NOT notched. Gaskets have to have tabs trimmed off to fit into valve covers.

 

[streetwedg]

Correct pvc valve

 

[moparedtn]

Those valve covers are not correct for a 1965 426 wedge. They should have the early style pvc valve and slip on just like oil cap. My valve covers are NOT notched. Gaskets have to have tabs trimmed off to fit into valve covers.

1. You asked why this "was so hard". I replied that nobody was saying it was.
2. You're the only one that has brought up '65 wedges. Nobody else has said anything about them, certainly not me.
These valve covers I'm about to install are not from a '65 wedge, obviously.
3. You made the statement that "valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets."
I showed some certainly are, namely the ones I have as well as the painted steel stock ones.
Perhaps you meant to say "'65 wedge 426 valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets", which would have been more accurate.
Not germane to the actual discussion thus far, but at least more correct.

 

[moparedtn]

View attachment 641351 Correct pvc valve

Again, perhaps for your engine.
Mine (and most late 60's big blocks) had one of these:

 

[streetwedg]

1. You asked why this "was so hard". I replied that nobody was saying it was.
2. You're the only one that has brought up '65 wedges. Nobody else has said anything about them, certainly not me.
These valve covers I'm about to install are not from a '65 wedge, obviously.
3. You made the statement that "valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets."
I showed some certainly are, namely the ones I have as well as the painted steel stock ones.
Perhaps you meant to say "'65 wedge 426 valve covers are not notched on the bottom for tabs on gaskets", which would have been more accuratej.
Not germane to the actual discussion thus far, but at least more correct.

 

[streetwedg]

Sorry. Didn’t mean to ruffle any feathers. Hope you figure it out.

 

[moparedtn]

Sorry. Didn’t mean to ruffle any feathers. Hope you figure it out.

Not at all, sir. All input gratefully appreciated.

 

[moparedtn]

Ok, plan is in motion. This weekend, above-pictured valve covers go on.
Using these studs from ARP (notice they're specifically for steel covers):

...and these washers from Mopar Performance (#4349620):

Finally, installing these gaskets "dry" (FelPro #VS50145R):

(They're the re-useable black rubber coated fiber ones).

Since the valve covers came with the proper outlets/grommets installed for my breather and PCV, that ought to do it.
Sadly, a couple of their wire retainer tabs are broken off, so I'll have to dress that up a little, but other than that they
look ready to install.
I think this is going to look pretty cool once done - and I'm about to find out what heads are on this thing, too. Bonus.
I had her out tonight for a little drive and I'm really starting to enjoy the car - finally - after over 7 years of hell.
Knock wood...

 

[vintage chromoly]

1. I also had to do a little machiningwith a ball peen hammer on the right head to get the R2R dist to work.
   
   
   
   That is brutal!

 

[moparedtn]

I also had to do a little machiningwith a ball peen hammer on the right head to get the R2R dist to work. View attachment 642025
That is brutal!

Good Lord man, don't ya own a file or Dremel?

 

[khryslerkid]

Ed, I know you've been working on these things as long as I have but I did learn a new way to apply these gaskets and it really worked great.

I used the 3M weather strip adhesive to apply the gasket to the cover. Coat both halves (cover and gasket) and apply. Then I used the Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker on the side of the gasket that mates the head. Maybe an 1/8" application on the gasket and mount the cover on the head. Only finger tighten the cover and let it sit for one hour. Then torque the hardware the rest of the way. If you have the patience, let them cure for 24 hours before firing it up.

I had good luck useing this method on my cast aluminium covers that weren't exactly flat. The Permatex filled the voids. I removed them without any problems and just recoated the gaskets with a thin film of the Permatex to install. Never had a leak. I'm useing the same gaskets.

 

[moparedtn]

Ed, I know you've been working on these things as long as I have but I did learn a new way to apply these gaskets and it really worked great.

I used the 3M weather strip adhesive to apply the gasket to the cover. Coat both halves (cover and gasket) and apply. Then I used the Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker on the side of the gasket that mates the head. Maybe an 1/8" application on the gasket and mount the cover on the head. Only finger tighten the cover and let it sit for one hour. Then torque the hardware the rest of the way. If you have the patience, let them cure for 24 hours before firing it up.

I had good luck useing this method on my cast aluminium covers that weren't exactly flat. The Permatex filled the voids. I removed them without any problems and just recoated the gaskets with a thin film of the Permatex to install. Never had a leak. I'm useing the same gaskets.
View attachment 642057

Many is the time I've done that exact same thing, my friend. Trust me on that one.
Always loved these FelPro's and a good ol' tube of RTV black.
To be honest, the goop was usually used to keep the dang gasket in place as much as for any sealing properties.
I want to see if it's possible to do it without the goop this time, though. I can always revert to it if need be -
I have a trusty tube of goop on standby in the garage at all times.
For some reason, I'm thinking using all studs this time might make a difference.