corunna bird
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warranty for 90 days which has passed.
I will give the vacuum a try.
exhaust was all tapedal up.
I will give the vacuum a try.
exhaust was all tapedal up.
strange 572 crate hemi issue
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corunna bird
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can I do a compression test by hand ??
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I wonder if a little carb cleaner or starting fluid in each cylinder and turn it by hand to dry out the oil. Use a air nozzle to blow each one out. (No Sparks Please!)
corunna bird
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motor is out so that's possible.
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dont spray carb cleaner your going to wipe the walls down. Take the oil pan off and inspect the rotating assembly and see if anything foreign is stuck in the cam valley..
corunna bird
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had the pan off and all looks real nice. absolutely no mech interference just builds pressure.
miller
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Just thinkin' out loud on this one...
What was/is the advertised compression ratio? Doing a compression check by hand...no...especially with the little said oil in the bores. Reading won't be accurate.
Way I have learned, engine needs to be turned over by the starter, carb wide open, plugs out (at least one per hole). Three hits at the gauge, reading the third hit.
Your right thinking it could be something with the valve opening timing. ?? But, you also said it had been test run, right?
Whatever you do, keep in mind if it's actually hydraulicing (kinda doubt it, since your not dealing with that much oil), a rod could actually get bent.
What was/is the advertised compression ratio? Doing a compression check by hand...no...especially with the little said oil in the bores. Reading won't be accurate.
Way I have learned, engine needs to be turned over by the starter, carb wide open, plugs out (at least one per hole). Three hits at the gauge, reading the third hit.
Your right thinking it could be something with the valve opening timing. ?? But, you also said it had been test run, right?
Whatever you do, keep in mind if it's actually hydraulicing (kinda doubt it, since your not dealing with that much oil), a rod could actually get bent.
corunna bird
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Hey, I think it's like 10.5 to 1 so not crazy. Yeah it was for sure run and like I said I did not touch a thing that's the strange part. I have been very carefull in my investigation of this. with all the plugs in it is pretty much all under compression all the time wait just a second and it bleeds off for a quarter turn then get hard again, that's why I'm thinking a timing issue like valves are not opening when they should ?? but that brings me back to ( but it was run ) maybe I will put a stock bell housing on instead of the quicktime one to see if the issue is something there but again it's hard to turn with nothing back there.
so as you can see I have no idea where to go next lol. I had talked with Tim at for hemis only and I may take it there when I get some time but just started to think I could manage it myself but maybe a good idea for him to go through it.
thanks for your help. bruce
miller
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Right. Gotta admit, I'm one of those who can only 'wish' I could get my hands on a Hemi.
But, heck, it's still only parts and pieces! Even on a motor like that one. Turns over good, with plugs out, right...even on my not run yet 440, plugs in, real hard to turn over by hand. That's at 10-1.
'Crate' motor...no telling. Why I build my own. Few things I would be sure of, before firing it off, would all be in the valve timing/opening, to be positive it's okay. Should know on the cam type, lifter type, valve to guide clearances, and valve lash, too.
Don't know the complete picture, so might be worth a look-see. 'Could' be all okay.
Best of luck on it!
But, heck, it's still only parts and pieces! Even on a motor like that one. Turns over good, with plugs out, right...even on my not run yet 440, plugs in, real hard to turn over by hand. That's at 10-1.
'Crate' motor...no telling. Why I build my own. Few things I would be sure of, before firing it off, would all be in the valve timing/opening, to be positive it's okay. Should know on the cam type, lifter type, valve to guide clearances, and valve lash, too.
Don't know the complete picture, so might be worth a look-see. 'Could' be all okay.
Best of luck on it!
not so famous bob
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was the cam degreed in ? my first street hemi had 205 to 209 lbs per cyl when stock. it was hard to turn over by hand. when I put a bigger cam in it, the cyl pressure dropped, and it was almost impossible to turn over by hand w/o waiting on the pressure to bleed down . go figure cratye it up and send it to me , I`ll make good use of it ! LOL "just a note" my 505" wedge is almost impossible to turn over by hand too.
corunna bird
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LOL. thanks, well that gives me a good feeling knowing yours is hard to turn over maybe I will investigate the bell/starter flywheel. I can put on a stock bell and try a couple starters. Not sure as not may starters will fit the 2-1/4 tti headers. I know there is one company that makes the best starters but can't remember
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Keep in mind the mass your turning over. For what you paid get the builder involved.
corunna bird
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Yeah probably the best thing to do.
I have been kind of watching this, and then it hit me. If I am not mistaken, this is a stroker hemi, and it requires a stroker cam (shorter base) for clearance with the crank IIRC. I had a customer call me about the same thing, and when I had him check the cam, they had sold him a regular cam, and it was hitting. Once he replaced it with a stroker cam, no problems. I am curious if maybe they built the short block, then put the wrong cam in it??
The OP stated that this motor has been run already and dyno'd so it supposedly works fine.
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69Bee the taller block cam bore is needed for this. Ive never seen these types of cams your talkin about..
64 Post
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If Tim Banning built the thing then I be on the phone with him. Tim stands behind his work. If he didn't build it, I'd still drop it by his shop. Not too many better Hemi guys in the business AFAIC.
You are correct, he did say that.
From the Eagle website:
Now that we are on the subject of limitations, let's explore some of them so you'll know what you're up against. The engineers that designed each block never intended for stuff like this, but they did leave some room for improvements. Some engines more than others. Not all engines are created equal. The longer stroke crankshaft and the rods have to be able to rotate in the block without running into things like the crankcase walls, bottom of the cylinders, oil pump bosses or pickups, oil pans, windage trays, main cap girdles, or even the camshaft!
Ouch!
The camshaft!? Really?
It's relatively easy to get out the grinder and grind away parts of the crankcase, notch out the bottom of the cylinder walls, buy a different oil pan or pickup, or buy a different main cap girdle. But you can't exactly clearance the camshaft now can you? Fortunately the only engine that has this problem is a Chevy small block. Unfortunately that is the most common engine people build stroker engines out of! For the Chevy small block, that is the single biggest obstacle to overcome when building a stroker. Design changes in the connecting rod and/or camshaft (smaller base circle) can help with this, but they can only go so far. You will have to consult different component manufacturers to see just how far you can go.
Since I build all kinds of motors, I have seen this on a Chevy. I guess Mopar has enough room, so it is okay. I was just trying to help with an idea to check.
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