Suggestions needed for paint and clear

Exterior Body, Paint, Trim, Chrome

  1. Brewzer67

    Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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    Hello all, I am going to be sending the Coronet off for paint and a few rust touch ups. The car is currently black and will be repainted black to correct some other issues with the original job. I am looking for advice on what paint to use for the project. I am looking for the deepest black that's out there. I am not sure what they used the first time but it has always had a slightly brown tint to it in certain lighting so I am looking to eliminate that. As far as the clear goes, I am looking for something that will look extra deep but will be a little tougher than the last job as well. Anytime I used my cotton fender covers I would have to re-polish the fender to bring it back. I am guessing there was an improper hardener mix used because it seemed like it never truly set up.
    I plan on going with some colored stripes again if that comes into play...
    I've attached photos for the before examples. I'm not so much worried about price as I am about durability and quality.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    IMG_20180609_100151.jpg IMG_20180630_104847.jpg
     
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    • 69L48Z27

      69L48Z27 Well-Known Member

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      Are you taking the car to a paint and body shop? If you are, they will likely tell you what products they use. You won’t have a choice. All the items you mentioned are easily addressed with products used today. I’ve only had experience with either PPG or Axalta, both were from their respective ‘top of the line’ products and both performed similarly. I use PPG for my small jobs because that’s what I’m used to and the supply house is local.
       
    • Brewzer67

      Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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      I am taking it to one of the guys in our car club that does awesome work. He works with PPG, Sikkens, House of Color, DuPont, Nason's and a few others so I am trying see what others think based on experience. I haven't found a whole lot favorably for Nasons yet so that is probably out. I don't mind paying a little more for a better product, but I don't want to just get the most expensive because people equate that to being better. I'd rather go by real world experience.
       
    • Jerry Hall

      Jerry Hall FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Of those I have used PPG, and Sikkens. My 62 is in Sikkens. 20171109_094554.jpg
       
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      • Brewzer67

        Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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        It definitely looks awesome. Even though it is white, you can still really see the depth even at the distance the photo was taken. Dollar/performance which would you rate higher? The Sikkens or PPG?
         
      • slimt

        slimt Well-Known Member

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        PPG and Sikkens are really good.. either one will be a good choice.. but in the long run its the person doing the pre prep and application of the product that makes for the good end result.. someone that is in a hurry and speeds up a process to get it done quickly.. thats where products fail..
         
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        • Jerry Hall

          Jerry Hall FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Both are excellent products. Cost wise at the time the Sikkens is less.
          Look again it's pale green, but has a deep shine even though there is no metallic in it.
           
        • Cranky

          Cranky Banned Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Did some body repair work on my daughter's car and used Nason. She's pretty rough on cars and very seldom washes it and the part that I painted still looks nice 4 years later....base clear.
           
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          • 1967coronet

            1967coronet FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            I prefer ppg products. each shop or bodyman will have their own favorite.
            Their DBC base 9700 is a true black imo.
            the clear coat, ppg deltron 3000 or 4000 and a 3085 activator. the 3000 is more for production 2 or 3 panel jobs but can be used with very nice results on a complete with the slower activator and decent booth temp.
            3 coats of base minimum and 3 coats of clear minimum. If your going to wet sand and buff at the end go with 4 coats of clear.

            Black............. nothing looks better , nothing looks worse lol , Its all in the care over the years. late model cars that will be ran through the local beater brush car wash, dirty wash mitts , ect,ect.
            A black paint job is going to need a correction type buff job each summer to keep it looking top shelf.
             
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            • Brewzer67

              Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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              I see that now that I am looking at it on my phone instead of my PC. My monitor for my PC is super old so it is pretty washed out.
               
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              • Cranky

                Cranky Banned Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Old enough to be a tube type? Both my desk and lap top are getting old but my desk top is probably 10 years old now while the LT is probably 6 or 7. Both are in a dusty environment too.
                 
              • Brewzer67

                Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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                20 years old at this point. It was one of the early LCD's.
                 
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                • Brewzer67

                  Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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                  Anymore feedback from anyone? I haven't seen a whole lot of feedback on the black base coat preferences. This is an area that I'm largely clueless on so would like to hear what those with the experience have to say.
                   
                • shovelluv

                  shovelluv Well-Known Member

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                  My 2 cents is urethane base coat clear or single stage will hold up way better than what you have now. When i do the color black and I want to try and get the deepest in the color, I actually prefer single stage urethane and cut and buff. Pure black is black a should not have toner in it. I attached a pic of the last car I painted in single stage black. You can wet sand and and flatten single stage to give a mirror image but you cant cut and buff what under clear. If someone sprays a base coat and it has any texture to it, then clears it, it will always be there. 20160814_174520.jpg
                   
                • Dennis H

                  Dennis H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Mad Dogs and Englishmen own black cars. Swirled and dirty most of the time. Good luck.
                   
                • Brewzer67

                  Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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                  Very nice. Thanks for the input. I would definitely want to stay with base/clear as it is way easier to fix when it has to be touched up. Especially with having the stripes.
                   
                • Brewzer67

                  Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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                  Too funny! I must be be a mad dog then as I'm mostly Polish and Native American by descent. I hear you on the dust and swirls. If it didn't look so bad ass in black it wouldn't be worth it. Thank God for speed shine and California dusters.
                   
                • vintage chromoly

                  vintage chromoly Well-Known Member

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                  I used PPG DCC concept single stage black 9300 on my latest boat restoration. It’s a deep “blue” black color as opposed to the “brown” black color. You don’t see or notice any blue tint in the finish, just a crisp deep black.
                  I cleared it with PPG 2021 clear.
                  You can leave it be and machine it, or clear it and machine the clear. My boat is two tone, and I didn’t want any ridge at the color parting lines, so I cleared it.

                  A couple pics for reference of the way the color shows:

                  103E07C6-8D1F-4F30-9310-7F47F05AED8C.jpeg BC5D666E-C902-418B-BE55-AB48574A85AD.jpeg A61451FB-14DB-45A8-A6F9-50A1D93C9F30.jpeg
                   
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