SureGrip differences between 8 3/4 and Dana 60

[Cranky]

Cone type not represented here and have posted this awhile back but time for a refresher? Torn down several 8 3/4 Powr-loks (Power Locks?) that had messed up spiders but have never torn down any PL's from a 60 that had broken spiders and may be this is why.....?

 

[65-440]

Just a tad bigger !

 

[moparnation74]

Great refresher cranky......Proof is in the pudding.......

a dana mated with a four speed is a perfect marriage....

 

[davek]

I dont think I have ever heard of a Dana breaking.

 

[moes]

I've got a buddy who runs a 70 RR with a dana 60, 750+hp motor with 800 ft lbs of torque with slicks who beats on it hard at the track for the last 10 or so years, he has damage the motor a few times but has yet to hurt the rear end. One good thing is if he happens to snap an axle the car will coast to a stop with no power reaching the rear tires, unlike a chevy rear end.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Dana 60, the last rear end you’ll ever need!

 

[cryplydog]

After having a mopar d-60 the last 4 or so years there is no way I would go back to the 8-3/4 even if I had to get a S-60.

 

[GetX'd]

I have an 8 3/4 And have beat the **** out of it over the years. Have a new one now with the 45yr rebuild and don’t expect to ever have to replace it. If I had a Dana already I’d obviously keep that build - but see no reason to switch. This cars drag racing days are long over. If a new owner decides different- Bless his pocket book. Don’t see the need.

 

[Bill Monk]

Thanks for posting. Before the car I have now, I had never run a dana. Now that I have, I'll never run anything else

 

[Cranky]

Does anyone notice the reliefs for the bearing puller on the 8 3/4 clutch unit? The cone units do not have that and is proof positive that the cone units were never meant to be rebuilt.....

 

[5.7 hemi]

I noticed it, so out came the cut off wheel.....those bearings didn’t stand a chance!

 

[Cranky]

I have a newer Powr-loc that came out of a late model pickup (has a tone ring) that doesn't have the reliefs either but the shoulder is smaller in diameter and looks like you can at least use a clam shell on it.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Clam shell works well, there is also the type of puller that comes in from the top, not sure of its name but they are pricey.

 

[65-440]

I use a clamshell(bearing splitter) also, get the 2 halves tight against the bearing and slow pumps on the press !

 

[Daves69]

I noticed it, so out came the cut off wheel.....those bearings didn’t stand a chance!

I did that on one side of the cone I did last year and thought, what the hell do I have a clamshell and press for?

I use a clamshell(bearing splitter) also, get the 2 halves tight against the bearing and slow pumps on the press !

The opposite side I went ahead and pressed off. But first I placed the old race over it and wrapped a leather welders apron around it JIC. It came right off, easier than I expected.

 

[Cranky]

there is also the type of puller that comes in from the top, not sure of its name but they are pricey.

If I'm thinking it's the same thing, yeah it's pricey.....and not gonna buy one now. Just don't do enough work on rear ends anymore to warrant spending the money.

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm wondering how you break the pinion nut loose on these center sections and retorque them when it's on the workbench?

Here I am and my setup today, getting the nut off my 742 so I can change the seal. Attached a angle iron to the yoke and had a pipe sticking out the side of the car to stand on. I think I hurt myself!

 

[65-440]

I'm wondering how you break the pinion nut loose on these center sections and retorque them when it's on the workbench?

Here I am and my setup today, getting the nut off my 742 so I can change the seal. Attached a angle iron to the yoke and had a pipe sticking out the side of the car to stand on. I think I hurt myself!
View attachment 596610

You can lock the center in a vise, use a big adjustable (or the tool you've already made !)wrench to hold the yoke while you loosen or torque the nut ..... OR .... you can make a jig out of steel tubing (1/2" maybe) to bolt to the center section to keep it steady while you work on it ...

 

[Daves69]

I'm wondering how you break the pinion nut loose on these center sections and retorque them when it's on the workbench?......

I made a jig from 1/4" angle for the engine stand...........