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Taking Up New Residence

Excellent progress Kid! It's obvious that you're enjoying the old Polara immensely throughout the build and that's the way it should be. High quality work, everything done as good as it could possibly be.
 
khryslerkid said:
There's several on YouTube and they all seem to be struggling with the puller. I even saw one guy wrestling with a bar that he sticks between the fingers on the puller. I just had to show how easy it is.
Click to expand...
You must be doing it wrong KK. There was no swearing, no bleeding knuckles and no bent drum ;-)

Nice job on the vid, you can't go wrong with the right tool. I recently went through this, separated drum/hub and used later model slip on drums. Glad I did it!

Your car sounds great BTW!!
 
62 Dart Convertible said:
You must be doing it wrong KK. There was no swearing, no bleeding knuckles and no bent drum ;-)

Nice job on the vid, you can't go wrong with the right tool. I recently went through this, separated drum/hub and used later model slip on drums. Glad I did it!

Your car sounds great BTW!!
Click to expand...

I talked with Cass, Doctor Diff, and he's sending me everything to change the tapered axels over to the flanged axel. I'll have to change the backing plates to the newer style and drums too. I have an open 2.76 in the car now. I obtained a 3.23 sure grip and the tapered axels for the open rear are longer than if the car had a sure grip. So I need axels anyway. I'll document the conversion.
 
khryslerkid said:
Click to expand...

You were lucky! On my '64, using the exact same tool it took two days and a whole lot of heat to break it loose on the driver's side. The passenger's side was a bit easier. That's the reason I wrote the article on how to switch tapered axle rears to slip on drums. http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html Cost was under $100 including drums and believe me... servicing the rear brakes is much easier now.
 
Centerline said:
You were lucky! On my '64, using the exact same tool it took two days and a whole lot of heat to break it loose on the driver's side. The passenger's side was a bit easier. That's the reason I wrote the article on how to switch tapered axle rears to slip on drums. http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html Cost was under $100 including drums and believe me... servicing the rear brakes is much easier now.
Click to expand...

I was wondering where that article got to. It was on Crankshaft Coalition then removed. I knew you were the author and it is well done. Thanks again!

I would have gone that route but I needed the shorter axels to change over to a sure grip. So Dr Diff is hooking me up with flanged ones.

The passenger side was a little stubborn but after putting it under all of the tension that I dared, I took a 8 lb sledge and smacked the puller right on the end. About three hits and she let go. I know some can be stubborn. I did quite a few brake jobs on these and other makes back in the day.
 
KK those axles are a B----h! I did one way back & said never again.
 
khryslerkid said:
I was wondering where that article got to. It was on Crankshaft Coalition then removed. I knew you were the author and it is well done. Thanks again!

I would have gone that route but I needed the shorter axels to change over to a sure grip. So Dr Diff is hooking me up with flanged ones.

The passenger side was a little stubborn but after putting it under all of the tension that I dared, I took a 8 lb sledge and smacked the puller right on the end. About three hits and she let go. I know some can be stubborn. I did quite a few brake jobs on these and other makes back in the day.
Click to expand...

You could have saved some bucks and just had your local machine shop shorten the stock axles. Its a simple job for them. On the other hand Dr. Diff does sell good stuff and he knows what he's talking about. I had to call him when rebuilding my diff. I needed a couple axle shims and found out no one makes them anymore. Had two choices... make my own or shorten the thrust button to compensate and that's what I ended up doing.
 
Centerline said:
You could have saved some bucks and just had your local machine shop shorten the stock axles. Its a simple job for them. On the other hand Dr. Diff does sell good stuff and he knows what he's talking about. I had to call him when rebuilding my diff. I needed a couple axle shims and found out no one makes them anymore. Had two choices... make my own or shorten the thrust button to compensate and that's what I ended up doing.
Click to expand...

Been there too - I had to make my own backing plate shims and fit a thrust button as PO put mine together without either!
 
I was thinking about having the axles shortened. The charts show 1/8" difference. I've even heard of guys grinding them. If you don't take enough off your back to the machine shop, too much and they would be scrap. Then you still have to do the drum conversion to ease brake shoe replacement, then cost of the newer drums.

So changing to the newer axles you have the ease of drum removal and you have the ease of changing out the gear set if you decide to.

Did some measurements on where the drum surface will be with the new axles and it's the same as factory. Just received them but I'm still cleaning up the housing ect so I'll update later. (I suppose to be doing a brake job here!)

20170729_102915.jpg
 
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Guess what!
20170730_192227.jpg
20170730_192249.jpg


3.23 Sure Grip ready to take the place of the 2.76 Open gears.
20170806_172021.jpg


Removing the old gearing. My trans plate came in handy.
20170803_140257.jpg
20170803_141143.jpg
20170803_141526.jpg
 
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Ordered a lot of these parts from NAPA. They had everything I needed for the axle and center section swap the next day. The warehouse sent two tailpipes instead of two inner axle gaskets. I'll have them tomorrow.
20170805_113404.jpg


Found this in the brake shoe box. I'll have the replacements Tuesday.
20170805_111915.jpg


This week; install the center section, clean up and paint small parts, backing plates ect. Glad to be out from under this car, one more time!
20170806_172248.jpg
20170806_172305.jpg
 
looking good under there! I hated cleaning up under mine, but after it was all done, it's almost a pleasure crawling under a clean underside. No rust or grime falling in my face is nice for a change :)
 
Refurbished the vent and brake line block. Found what was left of a gasket under the block when I removed it, so I made another one.
20170807_135852.jpg


I had to bend the bracket for the brake line so the new hose had some slack in it with the rear at its lowest travel. Maybe the new hose was a bit short?
Check this when installing a new hose!
20170807_154829.jpg


I used two good coats of copper coat on both sides of the gasket. We'll see how it works. Originally I found just a gasket.
20170807_191640.jpg


The nuts for the third member have a plastic poured into a hole in the side of each one. Did they do this after the nuts were tightened? I've seen this done with universal joints, instead of using a "C" clip.
20170807_181920.jpg


Third member installed.
20170807_200207_001.jpg


Had a couple of questions on the install.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/a-couple-of-questions-about-your-rear-ends.135587/
 
Last edited:
the plastic is there from new and when you install them the first time they act as an interference fit, a lock nut by design...some nuts have this nylock ring inserted on the end of the nut and kept in place by rolled edge of the nut..same thing-only different
 
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