Separate names with a comma.
.....I'm going this route.
As I've said- I have about $300 in materials right now and the product gives results that I am very happy with. I need about a cup worth of filler or less for the dings and window corners. In fact, the window corners really don't need filler. How much can that be? ...and of course sandpaper, masking tape, paper, etc. ...and clean up supplies. I understand it's the labor, knowledge, and the facility. If materials can be kept under $1000 (note the above example is BC/CC), then I'd happily pay someone $3000 to do it. Happily!!!
So, I have to be confident with the shop to give them my car AND all of my material and go away. In my opinion, applying BC/CC is a lot easier than single stage. Less chance of multiple runs. You can "see"" it cover. If a shop thinks that they can gouge customers with a 12k estimate, well then, they really are insulting your intelligence, and if they don't want to do it then they are just being honest and they don't want the money. You can look up how much it costs to paint every panel on the car and just add it all up. You'll be surprised what you'll come up with at the shop's bodywork labor rate! A screaming deal, but no one would do it for that price. Just keep knocking on doors and asking!
I painted my Shelby Charger (blue/silver) myself back in '92 and it cost right about $1000 in materials then. I had an estimate to repaint my '71 back in '06 and it was $4500 then. The $4500 included some minor rust repair and was, I felt, very fair. The paint I've selected for a repaint over the coming winter is just over $900/gallon. I know I can get it done with cheaper paint, but that's what it costs for the color I want.
Crider, that's a beautiful color blue.
T Thanks! I wanted something in the ballpark of the original b5 but with pop to it. I think it suits the car pretty well
I was just given an estimate of 30k for paint...on an Arizona car that needs a trunk center section...and basicly a scuff and shoot.i tell him "I'm just looking to do a driver car here ...not a trailerqueen" He said if I dont strip the whole car (floors and all) I wont guarantee the paint.WTF? Also that quote had me completely removing the interior and engine/tranny.
I found a local shop in Seattle called Farwest that makes their own paints. Their products are mostly used on boats, commercial vehicles, and buildings. All places where the paint needs to be really durable. I was able to walk in and ask for a color a little darker than plum crazy and so they custom mixed an absolutely beautiful color. They paint will only cost me about $500 and I plan to just rent a booth for a few day ($100 per day) and do it myself. The biggest price saver is in the material. Generally good metallics are a lot more expensive than good solid colors. I think Macco is probably the best bet though if you had someone do it. Just prep the car yourself then let them do the paint for a couple thousand dollars.
As have already been posted, there's are lots of ways to get your car painted. If you are actually looking for paint AND bodywork, then the costs go up. What I did was do all of the bodywork myself, and bought the paint. Paint was approx. $500 for sherman williams mid grade paint. I had it painted at a Dodge dealership for $1800. If you don't know how to or like bodywork, I'd suggest learning how to. It's not hard and if you mess it up, start over and do it again. As far as finding a painter at a good price, you just need to start knocking on doors. There's lots of bodyshops and dealerships around here so it was easy to find a good deal. If you don't have alot of places to check on, well, you might pay more. But it any event, more you do yourself, the more money you will save. Good luck !
Thanks Moe-par for the Farwest info. I'm in Yakima and need to change colors on my build. My wife hates the green. I'm about ready to put my ride on the rotisserie and install the mini-tubs and relocate the rear spring mounts. Then I'm media blasting it. I will epoxy primer it and do a lot of pre-fitting before painting it. I found a guy that loves painting old Mopars. He wouldn't quote me a price as he said it depended on how much prep work was needed when he got it. I have a handyman that works for me that used to work in a body shop and we will get a lot of the block sanding ready and have the engine bay, inside and trunk pre-painted before he gets ahold of it. I'm going back to the original copper color only a nice brilliant metallic copper and a pearl white vinyl top. Crider, that's a beautiful car, reminds me of my old 68 Roadrunner. She was F.A.S.T. I loved that car. On a good day, she ran 12.48 in street trim with a kid seat in the back. Uncork the hookers and put on some sticky tires and it was good for low 11's.
I have painted numerous cars in my garage. The biggest factor is the prep work and no, I will not paint over someone else's prep work. I have had guys come to me with cars they say are "ready to spray" only to find substandard work and materials. The paint job will carry my name on it so even if the paint fails because of something the other guy did - when people ask "who did the paint?" it will be my name that is given. This truck came to me after another shop had "painted it." They quickly painted everything in pieces and charged the guy $6000. When I got it there were bent parts, broken off screws, bolts, worn out holes and cracks in the paint. One crack in the front fender was deep so I sanded down through 1/2" of filler to find a substandard patch job that still had rusted metal in it. The color for this truck was $800 a gallon and that did not include primers, clear or reducer. The next truck shown was painted by a "custom shop" in California just two years prior to coming to me. Notice the cracks in the paint: I ended up stripping this entire truck. The body and prep work was horrendous. Here is a chip of the paint removed. Notice how thick the filler is under it. This was mess was under the paint on the bed side. Stripped and prepped properly and then repainted: Here is one last example of what people pass off as acceptable. 1965 Buick convertible. Here's what was underneath: Bondo over 1" thick. My point being that you can find someone who will "paint" your car cheap but somewhere they will be cutting corners. Material costs alone can run close to $2000 for quality products that will last. So the bottom line is what is the car worth to you? Granted some classic cars are not worth the money invested in them so a cheap paint job may be in order. However when dealing with a car that has value or even personal value it is best to ensure that it is prepped and painted properly IMHO.
Anyone have an idea of what it costs to media blast a car. Contacted two companies here in WNY and waiting for there reply.
I purchased my '62 in 2015 and started my first (and last) "restoration", which was being built to "driver-quality" standards (on a budget). I removed the drivetrain, exterior trim, interior, dash, glass, etc. The body was not stripped or blasted. I did as much prep and body work as I was capable of (wish I'd done more) and took it to my local MAACO shop. I told them exactly what I wanted and they gave me a quote, which included extra charges for several small repairs (patches) on the body and painting the engine bay, door jams, and steel wheels. They also mixed the code F Pale Jade color I wanted right there (base/clear). Long story short, I was "out the door" for about $3,200. Am I happy? Yes! Is it perfect? No! Advice? Know what you want (expect) or buy 'em done!
If your looking for a driver type paint job Maaco will even do some body work. I've seen some of their work at local car shows and it's really not bad. If you live in a city that has a large Hispanic Population I have seen some very good paint jobs come out of their shops and it's usually very reasonable. Some of the Low Rider paint jobs are amazing !!
Moe-par what product line/paint type did you select at Farwest? I am in Redmond WA and they may be a good choice for me also.
A Concourse Quality Paint Job costs at least $30K. Just Sayin'
A lot depends on the area you are in and how many blast shops are competing for your business. We only have one place that will do a whole car and he charges $95 an hour. Figure a day minimum depending on the size and condition of the car. On my '68 GTX project I did my own media blasting with a small pressure blaster. The above took about 1 hour to do but labor is free.
I am currently having some work done on a 70 coronet R/T conv. by an outfit called Stripmasters Inc. in Milton Florida. They were highly recommended to me by 2 separate mopar guys in Florida. I have no idea where that is relative to your preferred location but he has been terrific to work with and his work has been phenomenal. I seen a 70 RR he did that was absolute killer. He even does special rates and payment for veterans. I have no idea what he would charge for what you are wanting but you are welcome to call him and ask. Here ya go 850-626-3188.
That guy sounds like he is trying to make up for slow turnover by jacking up prices...