Thermoquad rebuild question

[zombezoo]

The met rod hanger screw is a tool, not meant to be permanent. Sounds like the primaries need to be richer on the power step. Bigger pump shot might help, really depends on the type of stumble. Options are drill pump nozzle 3 thou bigger, drill pri jet 2-3 thou bigger, get some met rods that have thinner power steps or file the power step on the met rod with a modeller's file.

Can you explain a little further? I read that the starting point for the hanger adjustment is 1.5 turns from bottom (where the hanger assembly begins to move upwards from the lowest position) There was also some language about you should not have to go more than 2 full turns out, is the goal to have an adjustment that is 1.5 to 3.5 turns from bottom?

 

[zombezoo]

Another question, this carb does not seem to have a vacuum port for my vacuum advance distributor. What do you do in this instance? I originally had it connected at the port off the back side of the carb before I looked at the diagram. That port had full vacuum at idle and made the engine run poorly.
I found a port at the front that didn't have vacuum at idle but it looks like that port is for the purge canister. The distributor is currently connected there and the car runs much better but not sure if this is an appropriate vacuum source.
This is a 9097s carb.

 

[Geoff 2]

If you need to back out the hanger screws too many turns [ for proper running ], it means the mixture is too lean. The hanger screw is for fine tuning.

 

[zombezoo]

If you need to back out the hanger screws too many turns [ for proper running ], it means the mixture is too lean. The hanger screw is for fine tuning.

The current settings are pretty good. The tip in stall is 99% gone I happens maybe once in 30 stops and is a slight hiccup now. The part throttle afr is in the 13s wot is slightly rich in the low 12s. Low load (throttle barely cracked open) cruise is in the 16-17s and small throttle inputs cause it to drop into the low 14s. Seems like it's working like it should.

The car runs better than it ever has since I owned it. I have a couple other carbs i can pull apart to see what rods and nozzles are in them. Maybe there is something more appropriate to use there. We do run e10 here so Im thinking I need to change the original leather accelerator pump plunger to something ethanol compatible. Still also running original floats, will order some brass ones to throw in while it's apart.

All in all this has been great. I have never rebuilt a carb before and this went surprisingly well. Thanks to those of you who responded and the content creators out there, it really made this possible.