Time for a new radiator, which one?????

[ir3333]

The Griffin have worked well for me.As stated just paint them black and they appear original.The early ones had a 1/2 tig weld around the tank.I complained and i'm sure others did too because now the weld is super small and appears almost stock like solder.
This the original..it's an original re- cored with a triple core but it was always above 200 idling.
The second is the Griffin..similar to factory and will idle at 180

 

[coloradodave]

I have a $200 Afco aluminum triple flow that we tigged 4 aluminum "L" brackets to. For cooling it's a $135 Spal multispeed fan as a pusher as there is NO room for anything on the engine side.In the heat last week it stayed below 185*. At the track I go into the waterbox at 150/160* and cross the stripe at 180*. No shroud and hoodless.

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Geez, Al. Not everybody can afford that giant aluminum heat-sink that sits atop your engine...No hood also helps a bunch.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

That thing makes heat,,,my cheapo set up keeps the elephant cool no matter how hard I beat it up!
Can still do a similar setup looking OEM,,,,,,,,somewhat.

 

[Ccas]

Got mine set to a 4 core $600. No "hot" HEMI anymore. And copper /brass dissipates heat better. Aluminum is just cheaper....

Just to be clear on this subject as it is commonly misunderstood. Brass dissipates heat better than aluminum but brass alone is too soft to hold up as a radiator. So Copper has to be added. Once the copper is added, aluminum dissipates heat better than copper/brass.

Keep in mind that there are many different shapes, sizes and designs of radiators made with either material. So there are situations where a copper/brass radiator can equal or even outperform a smaller or poorly designed aluminum radiator.

 

[Preachr]

I replaced my 22" copper rad for a 22" aluminum Speed Cooling rad with a 2 row 1" tubes.
This works very well where the other rad which was not original to the car was running hot this one would not.
Another thing I did was close off all other avenues for air to get thru and force it to go thru the rad rather then around the rad.

 

[451Mopar]

Hey folks,

In my 70 RR I currently have a 26" three core. With the new engine building 500 hp and the old radiator looking a little tired the time has come to replace it. The default would be an OEM replacement that is a 4 core. What about a Tri-flow, is it worth the price?

Anyone want to offer up suggestions ?

Someone should make pop-corn LOL

As mentioned already, if you want to maintain the original radiator look, call Glen-Ray Radiators. They can re-core your stock radiator with a higher capacity core, and it will look better than new when you get it back. If using your core the cost is quite a bit less than the new Mopar licensed restoration radiators shown on their website.

 

[Dajkzo]

Hi,
I want to thank everyone for their comments/ideas. I purchased a ColdCase radiator. Prompt shipping, the fit and finish are excellent! Chris from ColdCase gave me a great deal as a FBBO member. I'll get some road time in this week-end and report back.(with pictures!!)

 

[beanhead]

Hi,
I want to thank everyone for their comments/ideas. I purchased a ColdCase radiator. Prompt shipping, the fit and finish are excellent! Chris from ColdCase gave me a great deal as a FBBO member. I'll get some road time in this week-end and report back.(with pictures!!)

Yeah report back. I'm curious about shroud selection and fitment..

 

[Dajkzo]

Ok,
New radiator is installed and testing is complete. First, no leaks!!! No mishaps!!

I started with the new radiator and the current 180º thermostat. Before the engine ran 190º with air temps in the high 80s-90s. Sitting in week-end traffic it would climb to 210º and even with a 40mph cruise the temp would never get back to 190.

Post install it would run 185º and I was sitting for maybe 10minutes and it never climbed above 190. Once I was moving at 2000-2500rpm(40-50) the temp dropped down to 185. The other change is an 18" Derale flex fan with a 1.5" spacer.

Test number 2 was the addition of a 160º Milodon thermostat. The temp stayed at 170 and I did my best to wail on the engine.(5800 in 1st and 2nd along with some hard driving on a quiet country highway) The temp never moved, so when I got home I let it idle for 20 minutes. Never got above 175.

I have my reasons for running a 160. It all depends on what alloy your pistons are made from, clearances, and how much power you build.
My oil temp is steady at 210º with a thermostat/cooler config.


Overall, I'm very pleased with ColdCase. The fit is excellent with a Mopar brand shroud, it was a simple plug n play. The Derale fan is set to the correct depth in the shroud and it pulls plenty of air at idle/low speed.

Sorry about the lousy pictures, my IPhone got dropped.

 

[joemish]

Hey folks,

In my 70 RR I currently have a 26" three core. With the new engine building 500 hp and the old radiator looking a little tired the time has come to replace it. The default would be an OEM replacement that is a 4 core. What about a Tri-flow, is it worth the price?

Anyone want to offer up suggestions ?

Someone should make pop-corn LOL

I got a Champion 3 core for my 420 HP magnum, it worked great. They rate the Radiators to the HP, really sharp looking radiator with perfect welds and very reasonable price.