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Time to Ditch The Edelbrock!

Glad you found it, taking the time to go threw it just furthers your understanding and benefits you down the road.
 
I ran a pair of eddies on my amc for 20 years, never an issue, othern than an occasional cleanout of fine silt from my nasty gas tank (settles in the low areas below the jets)

I have a shelf full of holleys, all with their own issues......... I did pick up a 770 street avenger for my 440, and I have a vintage 650 DP I want to try to make work on my rebel machine....... I must be a glutton for punishment?
 
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eldubb440- let us know how the street avenger works. Thinking about one because I finally figured out I have a 340carb on my 440(?). Thanks to previous posts on this site for casting numbers. Works OK, but I think it's getting worn out.
 
eldubb440- let us know how the street avenger works. Thinking about one because I finally figured out I have a 340carb on my 440(?). Thanks to previous posts on this site for casting numbers. Works OK, but I think it's getting worn out.

Sounds like mine when I bought it - the AVS that was on it decoded as a 71 340 carb I think. That's how mine ended up with an 800 Edelbrock on it.
 
More wive's tails. Side hung floats have been used for decades and are NOT a fire hazard. Holley performance carburetor are mostly center hung. Certain applications work better with one option or the other; i.e., off-road, drag racing, road racing or marine use. Repeating things that are heard while 'bench racing' is not productive...

I stand corrected.
Gaskets never leak.
 
As we've seen here. ANY brand carb will work if it's clean,undamaged, and properly tuned. It's not magic.
Doug
 
I will say this, I now know why Edelbrock sells their gaskets in sets of five instead of individually. As many times as I've need to open this carb up, you need every one of those. :)
 
I will say this, I now know why Edelbrock sells their gaskets in sets of five instead of individually. As many times as I've need to open this carb up, you need every one of those. :)
You know what's strange. The Eddys on my car were purchased in the late 90's. They sat for years. Now have been on the current car 5 years. Same gaskets, needle and seats they came with new.
Doug
 
Don't mean to take pot shots here but it seems to me that the problem could have been easily diagnosed when checking the float level and drop. After all, you have to remove the floats to "polish" (your words) the needles; the 'sloshing' sound would have been a good clue. Everybody has to get their experience somewhere but condemning a whole product line because of a mechanical problem isn't really fair. Glad you found the problem. Hope you'll see that any carburetor can work as intended, no matter the brand...
 
Most of us get (got) our experience in the school of hard knocks................................. where the test comes BEFORE the lesson.
 
Don't mean to take pot shots here but it seems to me that the problem could have been easily diagnosed when checking the float level and drop. After all, you have to remove the floats to "polish" (your words) the needles; the 'sloshing' sound would have been a good clue. Everybody has to get their experience somewhere but condemning a whole product line because of a mechanical problem isn't really fair. Glad you found the problem. Hope you'll see that any carburetor can work as intended, no matter the brand...
And you would be right except for one key point. I do one one side at a time when I'm working on the carb so I can minimize losing parts. I also take each part off and place it on a cloth next to the carb. I didn't notice the difference in float weights until I had installed the new ones, started cleaning up, and picked up both weights to throw them out. It wasn't until I had them in my hands at the same time that I noticed the weight difference. That's when I gave the float a hard shake and felt the gas in it. And remember, we're only talking about an ounce of difference, so it's not something that's readily apparent.

Another issue was, as I've noted, there was no holes or leakage to be seen from the bad float. I tried every which way to get that gas out of it, but the float is sealed tight. I would have spotted a hole, or leaking gas, but there was nothing to spot.

As for condemning a product line over a mechanical problem, I would remind you of two things. First, this isn't the first issue I've had with this carb. I bought it from a guy who had just had it rebuilt and was selling it because "it was too much gas for his engine", which should have been a tip off there was an issue. The engine would start fine, but once you shut it off it would not restart. I had to tear the damn thing apart, clean everything, and adjust the floats four times before I got it to finally allow the engine to restart. Then I had issues with heat and had to spend more money getting a heat insulator gasket for it. Now I've had this issue and while the engine runs it's back to having issues on restarts and I'll be pulling the damn thing off two or three more times until I can get those floats right where they want to be in order to behave.

Second, I've always had Holleys before. In fact, this car's previous engine had a Holley 650 on it. In the years I've used Holleys, I've never had to remove them to make adjustments, never had to constantly tear them apart and clean them, and never had an issue with starts or restarts. And this isn't just me. You can read through forums and find dozens of folks who are having the same issues with Edelbrock's Performer line.
 
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Bruzilla, I realize that you are frustrated with your carburetor and, of course you are free to buy any kind of carburetor you want. If I may make a suggestion, I would recommend buying a NEW unit. That way you won't be inheriting someone else's problem. Obviously the fellow you bought it from didn't understand how a carburetor functions. In my past life I specialized in rebuilding carburetors, Rochester fuel injection and 4 speeds for a speed shop. I was amazed at the 'modifications' and 'fixes' that were done to some of those units prior to them being brought in to the shop. As far as complaints on the web about AFB style carburetors, realize that most of the 'problems' encountered are experienced by lay people, not mechanics. When I was racing I always used Holley carburetors. I liked them then and I like them now. My point was, and continues to be, any carburetor that has been around for over 60 years and been utilized on millions of vehicles by a miriad of manufacturers, is a good product. Hope you buy a NEW one of your choice and it works well for you.
 
And you would be right except for one key point. I do one one side at a time when I'm working on the carb so I can minimize losing parts. I also take each part off and place it on a cloth next to the carb. I didn't notice the difference in float weights until I had installed the new ones, started cleaning up, and picked up both weights to throw them out. It wasn't until I had them in my hands at the same time that I noticed the weight difference. That's when I gave the float a hard shake and felt the gas in it. And remember, we're only talking about an ounce of difference, so it's not something that's readily apparent.

Another issue was, as I've noted, there was no holes or leakage to be seen from the bad float. I tried every which way to get that gas out of it, but the float is sealed tight. I would have spotted a hole, or leaking gas, but there was nothing to spot.

As for condemning a product line over a mechanical problem, I would remind you of two things. First, this isn't the first issue I've had with this carb. I bought it from a guy who had just had it rebuilt and was selling it because "it was too much gas for his engine", which should have been a tip off there was an issue. The engine would start fine, but once you shut it off it would not restart. I had to tear the damn thing apart, clean everything, and adjust the floats four times before I got it to finally allow the engine to restart. Then I had issues with heat and had to spend more money getting a heat insulator gasket for it. Now I've had this issue and while the engine runs it's back to having issues on restarts and I'll be pulling the damn thing off two or three more times until I can get those floats right where they want to be in order to behave.

Second, I've always had Holleys before. In fact, this car's previous engine had a Holley 650 on it. In the years I've used Holleys, I've never had to remove them to make adjustments, never had to constantly tear them apart and clean them, and never had an issue with starts or restarts. And this isn't just me. You can read through forums and find dozens of folks who are having the same issues with Edelbrock's Performer line.
Is there any way to check the float level while installed? I'm just curious because hard restarts sounds a lot like fuel boiling out of the bowls, will it restart if you try immediately after shutting it off? I've fought with this issue on both Holleys and my Quickfuel lately, thought I had cured it with a phenolic spacer and insulated lines but once they switched to a winter blend of fuel it was back again. In my case I can visually watch my float level maintain the correct level them visually see no fuel after it's sat for awhile after being warmed up. I know because of their design Eddy's are even more prone to this issue.

In my case I'm overhauling the whole fuel delivery system to end it once and for all. The gas now days is being used under pressure and not being stored in bowls on top of a hot motor.... not designed for our application.
 
The fueling issue isn't specific to a carb. It has to do with the Reed vaporization pressure of todays fuel. It's designed to evaporate quickly with temperature. Look at any new, vehicle all have closed loop venting and obviously, electric pumps. The cure is an electric pump and waiting a few seconds for the bowl to fill. Again, blaming a manufactuar for a faulty part on a used unit? Then missing detection during diagnosis. That is what's called learning. And I garantee you now know more about carbs than before. That's a good thing.
Doug
 
I stand corrected.
Gaskets never leak.

Oh, I missed that. Was that meant to say that because ALL Holley carburetors use bowl gaskets that ALL Holley carburetors are a fire hazard? Using that theory, all carburetors and fuel injection are fire hazards because they all use a thread in fuel fittings, which might leak. New gaskets when re-assembling the bowls to the main body and evenly tightening the screws will eliminate that concern. Oh yeah, and what Doug said is right on...
 
And you would be right except for one key point. I do one one side at a time when I'm working on the carb so I can minimize losing parts. I also take each part off and place it on a cloth next to the carb. I didn't notice the difference in float weights until I had installed the new ones, started cleaning up, and picked up both weights to throw them out. It wasn't until I had them in my hands at the same time that I noticed the weight difference. That's when I gave the float a hard shake and felt the gas in it. And remember, we're only talking about an ounce of difference, so it's not something that's readily apparent.

Another issue was, as I've noted, there was no holes or leakage to be seen from the bad float. I tried every which way to get that gas out of it, but the float is sealed tight. I would have spotted a hole, or leaking gas, but there was nothing to spot.

As for condemning a product line over a mechanical problem, I would remind you of two things. First, this isn't the first issue I've had with this carb. I bought it from a guy who had just had it rebuilt and was selling it because "it was too much gas for his engine", which should have been a tip off there was an issue. The engine would start fine, but once you shut it off it would not restart. I had to tear the damn thing apart, clean everything, and adjust the floats four times before I got it to finally allow the engine to restart. Then I had issues with heat and had to spend more money getting a heat insulator gasket for it. Now I've had this issue and while the engine runs it's back to having issues on restarts and I'll be pulling the damn thing off two or three more times until I can get those floats right where they want to be in order to behave.

Second, I've always had Holleys before. In fact, this car's previous engine had a Holley 650 on it. In the years I've used Holleys, I've never had to remove them to make adjustments, never had to constantly tear them apart and clean them, and never had an issue with starts or restarts. And this isn't just me. You can read through forums and find dozens of folks who are having the same issues with Edelbrock's Performer line.
Warm the float up in hot water roll it around you will find the leak.
 
Oh, I missed that. Was that meant to say that because ALL Holley carburetors use bowl gaskets that ALL Holley carburetors are a fire hazard? Using that theory, all carburetors and fuel injection are fire hazards because they all use a thread in fuel fittings, which might leak. New gaskets when re-assembling the bowls to the main body and evenly tightening the screws will eliminate that concern. Oh yeah, and what Doug said is right on...

I expressed my "opinion" only to the OP.
I figured some would step in to disagree, even pointing out non street applications.
We all like to think our selection in motor oil is the best.
I think it is conflating things to compare the bowl to body attachment design to a necessary threaded connector, which I believe most all designs have in common.
If attaching the bowl to the side of the body is the most reliable design, perhaps that's why so many manufactures chose the side bowl design to put on their cars?
Not that I've seen, anyway.
Maybe I'm wrong.

I broke my cereal bowl this morning.
I'll drill holes and put the sides back together with a gasket.
Works good, last a long time.
You can have the last word, if you want it.
 
Well, yeah. Ford and Mopar to name just two manufacturers who used Holleys with side hung floats for decades on their V8 engines. I don't need to have the last words, just the correct ones...If you want to keep this stale thread going, please do your homework first. You're beating a dead horse.
 
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