Too much Brake vacuum?

[multimopes]

I think the check valve orifice may restrict a lot of it, not sure. If not, that sucks! Literally! Does the pedal still stay to the floor? Did it ever release? I read also that the presence of the return spring on some pedals and not others may have been because some came with adjustable brake light switches and some used a fixed switch! Now
I'm thinking your booster might be bad. Drum shoe springs might be shot as well which normally would help to push the pedal back up. How about a sticking or rusty emergency brake cable keeping the shoes applied? Possible bad master cylinder?? I just watched a Scotty Kilmer video on YouTube about not using rebuilt or Chinese made master cylinders because they are frequently crap!

 

[multimopes]

By the way, I just checked brake boosters on Rock Auto but they are currently out of stock, however, I found a booster for you on CARID.com, It's an A1 Cardone unit for $83.19. Part number mpn56116443.

 

[Officer Higgins]

My 64 is a stick with no PB's.
Here's my 65 PB booster. Getting ready to install the new check valve. I do not have much confidence in the results.
thats a Midland Ross booster,need to get it apart and take a look inside, if the check valve doesn't work. There is a mopar brake guy master power brakes i think. He will know.
View attachment 630434

 

[Officer Higgins]

 

[FU64RY]

By the way, I just checked brake boosters on Rock Auto but they are currently out of stock, however, I found a booster for you on CARID.com, It's an A1 Cardone unit for $83.19. Part number mpn56116443.

You are going above and beyond for me, thank you.
I have a $25 credit with CARID if it has not expired.
After thinking on it over nite I'm going back to the fact that the right rear brake is not returning. It locks up and burns rubber on the driveway. I did disassemble it from the get go and did not find anything wrong. E-brake seems to be working on both sides OK. May be the new wheel cylinder sticking.

 

[FU64RY]

I think the check valve orifice may restrict a lot of it, not sure. If not, that sucks! Literally! Does the pedal still stay to the floor? Did it ever release? I read also that the presence of the return spring on some pedals and not others may have been because some came with adjustable brake light switches and some used a fixed switch! Now
I'm thinking your booster might be bad. Drum shoe springs might be shot as well which normally would help to push the pedal back up. How about a sticking or rusty emergency brake cable keeping the shoes applied? Possible bad master cylinder?? I just watched a Scotty Kilmer video on YouTube about not using rebuilt or Chinese made master cylinders because they are frequently crap!

I did put years ago a bungie on my other 65 because it has a non adjustable fixed switch brake light switch and it stayed on all the time without it.

 

[FU64RY]

Rebuilt the whole RR
Did not do a thing.
Now the MC is leaking again.
Touch the brake pedal with the engine running and it pulls right down to the floor and locks up the brakes.

 

[black64]

Try your brakes with out the vacuum connected. Does the brakes function somewhat and release? Pedal will be hard but should still be able to operate the brakes.

 

[multimopes]

Sorry to hear you are having such bad luck! What on the MC is leaking? It sounds to me like you have air in the system, somewhere and/or contaminated fluid ruining seals, etc. Perhaps even an internally collapsed hose. Wouldn't it be nice if everything was clear plastic and you could see what was going on? Keep fingers crossed, you will find it eventually. Unfortunately it's always in the last place you look!

 

[FU64RY]

Sorry to hear you are having such bad luck! What on the MC is leaking? It sounds to me like you have air in the system, somewhere and/or contaminated fluid ruining seals, etc. Perhaps even an internally collapsed hose. Wouldn't it be nice if everything was clear plastic and you could see what was going on? Keep fingers crossed, you will find it eventually. Unfortunately it's always in the last place you look!

It's leaking down the front of the booster at the back of the MC.
I just came in from removing the whole assembly booster and MC.
My shop manual shows how to disassemble the unit and make some minor repairs.
It's like 105* and 95% humid in my garage so I will work on the disassembly tomorrow.
A new or rebuilt booster is not available anywhere in the world I called 15 places and most of them laughed. I did get ahold of tec support at A1 Cordone and he said they do not have any cores so they will not be making any more.
If I cant see and fix what's wrong with this one I will convert it to MB.
Thanks again for hanging in there for me.
We are (wife & I) downsizing and I am getting some of my cars ready to sell. I will not sell a car that I know has issues that could cause personal injury.

 

[multimopes]

A sad situation indeed. What about the booster that CARID is advertising and you said you HAD a $25 credit for. Maybe only one left in stock; unless of course they don't stock anything and source everything. How about ol' J.C. Whitney? Did you consider adapting a dual master cylinder? Might be easier than trying to make what you have work. I don't know myself, never did it.
When I saw you are in York, it brought back memories a trip with my friends out there in the early 70's to US30 Dragway (and Airport) Nationals. Got really hammered as did the entire crowd and drivers. Beer cans a foot deep under the bleachers in the pits! Saw the Blue Max funny car burn to the ground! I'll never forget it.
What ever your resolve, I wish you the best. I'm down sizing myself, unfortunately, no one want's to buy 20 pounds of my beer belly fat! LOL
Keep da Faith,
-Brian

 

[FU64RY]

Raced my A12 there for 4 years, won lots of races bought it new right out of the show room in 1969.
We had our PAC Plymouth automobile club meetings there above the show room and I walked by that A12 for a month until I convinced my mother to co sine for me.
Those were the days, still married to the sweetheart I dated then in the RR. We both have lots of fond memories.
She just brought me a glass of wine. SO
Till tomorrow.
Steve

 

[Officer Higgins]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-B-Bo...-Brake-Booster-Major-Repair-Kit-/171515951685

 

[Officer Higgins]

Raced my A12 there for 4 years, won lots of races bought it new right out of the show room in 1969.
We had our PAC Plymouth automobile club meetings there above the show room and I walked by that A12 for a month until I convinced my mother to co sine for me.
Those were the days, still married to the sweetheart I dated then in the RR. We both have lots of fond memories.
She just brought me a glass of wine. SO
Till tomorrow.
Steve

I just dialed in one of mr6packs cams runs great. Like to drive a12 just to see difference between that and 67 coronet r/t

 

[FU64RY]

I just dialed in one of mr6packs cams runs great. Like to drive a12 just to see difference between that and 67 coronet r/t

We got off the subject.
Just disabled what I could get apart, it takes specialty tools.
However it is not a midland ross, it's a reman ARROW.
SHOP MANUAL WAS NO HELP.
I'll clean and detail what I can get to and reassemble and reinstall.

 

[Officer Higgins]

Here are pictures of midland ross mopar b body power brake booster. See if this looks like yours. Additionally check the rubber that is sandwiched bet the two metal plates for damage, also take out the master cylinder push rod and check the inner star reaction ring for damage.

 

[Ron H]

If you don't mind me jumping in I have another odd deal with my brakes. Did a conversion to power and disk on my '63 Ply. Long story; but the shop did a shoddy job on it leaving the brake pedal more easily reached by hand than foot among other things that were for ****. Anyway have fixed a lot of that. What happens only when starting the car is the pedal stays down and brake lights stay lit. I pull the pedal up and then works fine. I even put in a return spring and likely not a strong enough one to overcome this deal. Though return springs I didn't think were on the car. Any thoughts on why this happens and only after starting the car? I have good vac and it holds as yanking off the hose after a few hours still has suction.

 

[multimopes]

Are you saying the pedal is down already, or do you step on the brake before you crank it? Also, is it a stick or auto because a stick might require making the switch (clutch pedal) to be able to crank it over. Some folks hit the brake pedal first as a test before even trying to start which kind of makes sense because if you don't have brakes, chances are you're not going to drive it anywhere. If the pedal is down all ready, (with a return spring), I'd say the spring is way too weak.

 

[FU64RY]

Here are pictures of midland ross mopar b body power brake booster. See if this looks like yours. Additionally check the rubber that is sandwiched bet the two metal plates for damage, also take out the master cylinder push rod and check the inner star reaction ring for damage.

View attachment 631214 View attachment 631215 View attachment 631216 View attachment 631217 View attachment 631218 View attachment 631219

Very similar but different. The rubber is soft and in excellent condition, I can not get it apart to look at the star guts.
My star has twice the number of tabs.
My shop manual shows how to dissemble the one like yours but mine needs a special tool to get it compleatly apart, I can not remove the push rod.
Anyhow! I cleaned and detailed what I could and put the whole thing back together. With a new rebuilt MC. Turns out the first two MC were probably not bad. I concluded that the adjustment nut on the end of the push rod was not long enough and allowing the MC piston to return too far out and letting fluid leak down the back. I made that adjustement and it is fine now.
Without the booster hooked up the brakes work fine.
Pedal comes back up while the engine is running and the booster not hooked up.
So; after 20 hours of labor I am going to call it manual brakes for now and move on.
Thank you everybody for all the input.

 

[multimopes]

Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you are (somewhat) back in business. Hopefully, eventually it will all work out for you. Take care and the best of luck!
-Brian