Torq-Thrust Wheels vs Standard Lug Studs

[69 GTX]

I was always told 1.5 x the diameter for engagement, 1/2" equals .75 of engagement. Specifically with todays quality of parts.
This will help overcome soft material, smaller thread engagement, ect.

Thread engagement distance calculation thumb rule

In case of the threads for steel – Min. thread engagement distance = 1.5 x base diameter of screw or bolt

In case of the threads for cast iron, brass – Min. thread engagement distance = 2 x base diameter of screw or bolt

 

[69_Coronet]

Sorry to extend this thread so late, but I just got my new wheels installed and thought this might be of interest to others. I just installed a set of Torque Thrust II wheels with the tapered cone seats (as illustrated in post #6) on my 1969 Coronet with stock length wheel studs. I used Dorman open end lug nuts that are about 5/8" overall thickness. The stud did not extend all of the way through the nut when tight, there was about a 0.060" recess, meaning that there was about 0.560" of thread engagement. Since this was more than one stud diameter, I decided that this was acceptable for me (in general, I prefer 1.5 diameters). For more engagement, I found Precision European Motorwerks Chrome Silver Bulge Lug Nuts - 1/2x20 Threads - 1.75 inch Length - ET Style (Extended Threads) - Cone Conical Taper Seat Shank - Closed End, available through newegg.com. These have the same tapered seat but also have an extended, threaded shank that goes further into the hole in the wheel, giving more thread engagement. I will be ordering a full set for my car. Unfortunately, they only seem to be available in right hand thread so I will have to change the studs on my left rear wheel (the front disk brake kit from DR Diff came with right hand thread studs). Hope this is of interest. Cheers!

 

[myfeather626]

I am going through the same thing because I am switching from Crager unilug to their direct drilled models that use a 60* conical lug.
Here is the response I got from Cass aka Dr. Diff.
I ordered and have the longer studs, but haven't got them installed yet.

"I would try Dorman # 610-290, or Moroso for the front:
Dorman 610-290 Dorman Wheel Studs | Summit Racing
Moroso 46180 Moroso Wheel Studs | Summit Racing

Mr Gasket rear studs are the closest to what you are looking for. No other brand of long stud has the correct knurl size See below:
Mr. Gasket 4311 Mr. Gasket Competition Wheel Studs | Summit Racing

If you install the extra long studs, you must cut the end of the fastener, or run open ended lug nuts.

Cass"

I have Torque Thrust D's front and back with original Bendix disks they bolt right on with the correct Chrome deep Lug sold as a set no need to change standard lugs! I wish I could find some lefties for my left front Rotor! Any clues? Also for the rear hub?

 

[Robertop]

If they are in fact new/current wheels, why would you even think of modifying anything. Call American Racing and get the correct fasteners. Period. Do not listen to any other advice. Makes no sense to do otherwise. These are not the "old days of making things fit". The proper, safe parts are available from the manufacturers of the wheels. There is a reason that ET style "Uni-lug" washers and lugs are not used new anymore. Wheels fell off. Hub centric, hub supported is the only safe way to go. The lug needs to thread as far as possible without bottoming out on the hub. Also remember that the oe studs were soft and only rated for about 55 lbs for 7/16" and 65 lbs. for 1/2 " If you are using original lugs and studs, think about how many tight/loose cycles that they have been subjected to. How many times would you use a head bolt, rod bolt, main bolt, you get the idea. If you are driving your classic cars on public roads, make the brakes and wheels/tires/studs/lugs safe for the other people on the street. Replace your studs with new, modern mfg studs and lugs. Much superior metallurgy available today.
Again check with the manufacturer that you have the correct wheel for your application. Just because you have the correct bolt pattern doesn't mean that they were designed for every stud diameter.

Here again I must disagree with the common misconception on bolts and nuts. When tightening any bolt, it behaves like a spring, and when you loosen it it will return to its original length, like a spring. Many people believe that in time they stretch or loosen and should be replaced asap. Metallurgically speaking, they will do so only when tightened above a point called ‘yield point’, well known limit that every mechanic should know to avoid. The idea of using new critical bolts when rebuilding an engine is because you don’t know the bolt history and I would agree with that.