, if you really have NEW torque thrusts, i would be willing to bet that you have conical seat wheels. Ite easy to tell. Conical seat will have a large chamfer on the front side and a lug thru hole around 5/8 inch (plenty big enough for 1/2 studs, also big enough for 14mm .550 and 15mm,.590 studs. If you have the older style that uses mag lugs, the thru hole will be around .700+, for a .687 11/16 shouldered lug, and woll either have a flat face on the wheel front, or a recess for a mag lug washer.
The idea of the mag lug with a shoulder was so that no matter how thick the center of the wheel was, (the early skinny fronts from crager supertrick, and from centerline autodrag were over an inch thick in the center) you could get the right length shoulder to use all of the stock available threads.
The problem with the new conicals is what you have already found. With the thicker wheel center necessary with aluminum wheels, the thread engagement with the stock studs gets shaky.
If i were in your spot, i would knock out (carefully, you know what i mean!) a front and a rear stud, and measure to get an idea of what the knurl size is ,and go shopping. It looks like hunt2elk has given you a shortcut, but i would still want to confirm what i have and then what i need.
The pictures show a few of my torque thrusts, and one cheap copy (that i found later weren't any cheaper than the real thing, darn it!) The gray with a tire on it is on my 57 temporarily, and shows what too short looks like. That has around three usable thread on a 7/16 stud. The other gray and the polished show conical center wheels
I personally have three inch studs on front and rear on three cars, with open end lugs. They were originally installed because nhra requires the lugs to extend a certain amount thru the wheel, and the centerline skinnies were almost 1 1/2"thick. I've got threes on the back on my 62, but i can still use steelies and hubcaps, no problem.