tranny fluid?

1975 - 1979 Mopars

  1. 306Doba

    306Doba Well-Known Member

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    just wondering what kind of tranny fluid I should use in my A727, and the capacity as well, thanks!

    -Cam
     
  2. 67 coronet

    67 coronet Well-Known Member

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    dexron III
    is the trans empty or did you just drop the pan?pan drop is about 5 quarts,normally a bit less.always adjust by the dipstick.can verry depending what pan is on it and torqe converter in it.
     
  3. 306Doba

    306Doba Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! i'm Just going to drop the pan to look for metal particles, tranny has been acting up recently, sometimes doesn't want to shift until I reach higher rpm's. Hoping it's just low on fluid and not wearing out. or maybe it's a sensor, that would be nice lol
     
  4. Citrus1973

    Citrus1973 Banned

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    Atf+4
     
  5. 68GTX4SPEED

    68GTX4SPEED Well-Known Member

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    I have also bought that ATF 4+ hope its as good as I read about it.
     
  6. 67 coronet

    67 coronet Well-Known Member

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    the atf 4+ is designed for the late 90's electronic transmissions.
     
  7. 5.7 hemi

    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    atf+4 is the replacement for atf+3.
     
  8. ykf7b0

    ykf7b0 Well-Known Member

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    A727 - Dexron III Pennzoil
     
  9. blackblazer717

    blackblazer717 Well-Known Member

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    Im faund of type f in my race trannys and they hold up well. Just my 2 cents
     
  10. 69Bee

    69Bee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Just so you are aware, you WILL find fine metal flakes in your tranny pan, and this is normal, bigger chunks are not. You probably just need either a service (filter and new fluid), or might be getting close to a rebuild.
     
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    • Slantsixdan

      Slantsixdan Well-Known Member

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      The (objectively) best Torqueflite-compatible trans fluid on the market until recently was Chrysler Mopar ATF+4. It is misunderstood by some to be "too slippery". In fact, ATF+4 is a significantly better fluid in every way than Dexron -II, -III, or -IV and ATF+ (+2, +3), and it does not cause, promote, or aggravate slippage. It maintains the specified viscosity across a temperature range that's wider at both the hot and cold ends, its lubrication and antiwear properties are better, it's more resistant to oxidation, sludging and varnish formation, and it smells better. It might even taste better, I don't know. There's an extremely detailed Chrysler Engineering paper comparing every aspect (except taste) of ATF+4 vs. ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, and Dexron-III/IV.

      Then along came GM's Dexron-VI, which is another extremely high performance fluid (where "performance" refers to all the things a trans fluid has to do...lubricate both metal-and-metal and metal-on-friction without screwing up the frictional elements' ability to grab and keep hold of the metal, remain stable when cold and when hot, resist foaming, resist oxidation, etc).

      The RWD Torqueflites really don't need anything more exotic than a good-quality ordinary Dexron (present spec is the newest Dexron VI, though you might still find some older or off-brand Dexron IIIe or other previous Dexrons on the market). I do run ATF+4 in mine, and they all seem happy with it. But the main point here is you really don't need to sweat it. You don't need to spend unnecessary money on exotic-brand fluids or special "race" fluid.

      Some people advocate using Type F, an old Ford fluid. Fact is, Type-F is an archaic fluid with seriously inferior performance by just about every measure. Torqueflites will hold up fine with Type-F, which is mostly an illustration of how rugged the Torqueflite is. There are much funner ways of demonstrating that a Torqueflite is robustly enough engineered to withstand abuse than to use an (objectively) inferior fluid.
       
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      • 306Doba

        306Doba Well-Known Member

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        Yeah I was expecting to find some, just hoping there were no gold or silver colored flakes. All there was on the magnet was a black sludge that didn't feel rough at all, almost like a grease which I was told was normal. I had my fluid changed and a new gasket/filter installed a couple years ago at a 10min oil change and haven't even checked the fluid since (yeah, I know) so i figured it was probably getting low. Went to check the fluid (warm, running and in N) and it was 1 1/2'' past the full line. Probably drove 15,000kms like that :icon_hang:

        Also noticed when they put my pan back on they over torqued it and pressed all the bolt holes up and tore through the gasket. :hello2: had to hammer it flat on an anvil

        I noticed aswell that my bands need adjusting, could this cause late shifts?


        Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying ATF+4, not sure what was in the tranny before but i'm assuming Dexron because that's what it says to use on the stick. We'll see how it holds up but i'm not worried after doing a bunch of research on the web, Some good ATF+4 vs Dexron debates out there lol
         
      • Slantsixdan

        Slantsixdan Well-Known Member

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        Upgraded parts from the dealer for a long-term leak-free job:

        Trans pan p/n 5211 8780AD with more rigid gasket rail and dimple for doughnut magnet

        Pan gasket p/n 2464 324AB rigid re-usable triple-seal gasket works much better than the floppy cork or rubber type

        Doughnut magnet by itself in case they've decided to quit packaging it with the pan: 3681 601
         
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        • 306Doba

          306Doba Well-Known Member

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          Sounds like I already have that trans pan.

          Thanks for the gasket tip, i'll be keeping my eye out for leaks.
           
        • ilm65

          ilm65 Well-Known Member

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          Mopar ATF+4 for me!
           
        • ply64post

          ply64post Seinor Member

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          high shift points

          Doba

          Check and make sure your kickdown linkage is not sticking and the return
          spring is OK if the linkage hangs partially back it will cause the trans to shift
          at a higher point.I have seen them stick the whole way back in the kickdown
          position causing it to shift at really high rpm's.

          Hope this will help
          Jeff
           
        • 69Bee

          69Bee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          When you check the level, warm the engine as you already know, but run the shifter thru all of the gears to fill the valvebody, and finish in neutral to check it.
           
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