Trans No Workie

[AR67GTX]

Have you actually contacted the builder of the transmission and talked to him? He may have an idea immediately. I knew to fill my converter with fluid (well partly anyway) before installing but I didn't fully appreciate that that might be a critical step to getting the think to pump oil and run. Sounds like it is.

 

[miller]

Sounds like it is.

No. Priming the converter just helps, since the fluid flows both through the trans, and the converter. Converter just needs fluid to get started, primed, since it works off of fluid flow.
Could be the guy who worked the converter, already primed it. Why take the chance?

For what ever reason, it's not getting any flow.

 

[khryslerkid]

Is that 'improved' pan deeper, than stock?
First things that come to mind, are pretty simple. Yeah, wrong filter. If the pan is deeper, filter extender must be used! Both extender, and filter, needs to be right ones.
Your converter is working, or not, kinda besides the point. The converter shaft is what turns the pump. You say it did engage the dogs?
Assume your checking fluid level, running and warmed up? Just sitting, level would be well over full...wonder if you have enough in it? No fluid in TC...bad boy! Don't care what anyone says. Needs to be primed!

But, no knowing the simple stuff, like the filter/pickup...guess you should get with the trans builder. If the fluid isn't getting to the pickup, naw, won't pick up!

Going for popcorn...

The pan is the factory 1964 and up style. Not a deep pan.

I'm just wondering if the one hole filter was installed instead of the two hole, wouldn't at least the front pump be working?

The shop isn't open on Saturday so I'll call on Monday before I do anything.

Here, I'll share some with you

 

[miller]

Right off that filters page...

A 1964-1965 transmission filter (with two ports). The NAPA or ATP № 19715 or 17956 filter/gasket kit contains the two-port filter. Others include Wix № 58656 and Fram № FT-1015A.

As it mentions, that improved two-port filter, can be used on the earlier 727s.

I'm just wondering if the one hole filter was installed instead of the two hole, wouldn't at least the front pump be working?

And burning up your rear pump!

It's been quite a while, since I've fooled with one of those two pumper trans. Since I'm not sure what changes you had done on the converter, might give him a shout, too.
Just trying to figure why your not getting any flow...any of a handful of different things.

Mine, first thing I'd do, is find the right filter. Yeah, I know what's involved...maybe something you don't want to mess with, for now. Don't remember the flow pattern, off hand, so I can't tell you if it's possibly getting blocked, if the wrong filter is there.
Might not have a damn thing to do with what's wrong.

Don't see where pulling the pan, and having a looksee, would 'void' anything. Your call.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Sure hope the high fluid level lubed trans during engine breakin.

 

[Glenwood]

Just out of curiosity, did you put a couple quarts of fluid in the torque convertor before installing it on the tranny? It won't turn the pump unless there's something in it initially.

I was told by my tranny guy that I didn't need to do that on my 64 PBTF that he rebuilt. It has been operating fine for me.

 

[oldbee]

I usually dumped maybe a qt in just to have some lube in there, but I was always breaking in a new cam at same time so I knew the rpm's would be high right off the bat.

 

[khryslerkid]

I was told by my tranny guy that I didn't need to do that on my 64 PBTF that he rebuilt. It has been operating fine for me.

When I asked my builder, I was inquiring about which fluid he recommends and adding any to the TC. He said, with authority, don't add anything in the TC. Guess he has his reasons? )Type "F" by the way.)

I mentioned that I was doing a twenty minute break-in and was concerned about how much fluid needs to be in the trans and TC so nothing gets screwed up. He said to just put seven quarts in it a have her in neutral.

 

[threewood]

Just a little comfort on using the later style filter with the 2 pump pb 727. I ran mine for two or three years with the wrong filter, no issues. Shifted fine and never slipped. When I pulled it along with the motor and decided to rebuild it is where I discovered my error.

I'm not saying it won't cause an issue in every case but from my experience it didn't. Plus I still had the old cartridge filter installed in line. Thing was probably original by the looks of it lol.

 

[oldbee]

Type F also was my main go-to. Uh oh I can see a new thread starting up!

 

[threewood]

When I asked my builder, I was inquiring about which fluid he recommends and adding any to the TC. He said, with authority, don't add anything in the TC. Guess he has his reasons? )Type "F" by the way.)

I mentioned that I was doing a twenty minute break-in and was concerned about how much fluid needs to be in the trans and TC so nothing gets screwed up. He said to just put seven quarts in it a have her in neutral.

Odd. It won't hurt a thing and might actually help on a first time start up. I added a quart to mine before start up no problem. I am also using Type F

 

[khryslerkid]

Type F also was my main go-to. Uh oh I can see a new thread starting up!

 

[oldbee]

Well there's no load on the tc, but I always shudder when thinking of anything moving/rotating when it's dry metal.

 

[Glenwood]

He told me to fill about 4-5 quarts initially until something registered on the dipstick. Then add another 4-5 while running in N. Tricky while breaking in the cam.
Had a hard time finding F around here. He recommended +4 which is what I'm using.

 

[Glenwood]

Well there's no load on the tc, but I always shudder when thinking of anything moving/rotating when it's dry metal.

Had the same thought but I trust my tranny guy. Known him 30 years now.

 

[miller]

Quick glance in ye old troubleshooting section of the handbook, says pretty basic stuff, for that ill.
For the record, I've always checked fluid level, in park. Only difference between park, and neutral, in park, the parking lug engages! Just one of the things is low fluid (doubt that), so needs to be checked while running, to be sure enough in there.

Said the trans shop recommended work on the converter. Converter, for what it's worth, also one cause for what's going on, if it's bad. Bad shift body, another.

More popcorn...hope it's something simple. Or, someone's pulling the trans.

 

[AR67GTX]

It occurs to me - "recommended work on the converter". What work on a converter could the average transmission shop perform - other than replace it? To make any significant changes to a converter the case has to be cut in two to work on the internal vanes, etc.

 

[Glenwood]

It occurs to me - "recommended work on the converter". What work on a converter could the average transmission shop perform - other than replace it? To make any significant changes to a converter the case has to be cut in two to work on the internal vanes, etc.

my stock converter was tweaked to get it close to a 2400 stall. They cut it and modified it. Works well for my application and was less expensive than buying a new 19 spline tc. This was done by a specialist though, not the transmission shop.

 

[khryslerkid]

What work on a converter could the average transmission shop perform - other than replace it?

Answer: from post #1

"2.)The shop had a torque converter company who knew how to tweak a 19 spline TC for a little higher stall so that's what I got."

 

[khryslerkid]

my stock converter was tweaked to get it close to a 2400 stall. They cut it and modified it. Works well for my application and was less expensive than buying a new 19 spline tc. This was done by a specialist though, not the transmission shop.

I was told that's about all they can get out of a 19 spline TC. Thought I'd give it a try being I only needed a little bit for the cam I'm useing. Went with a 3.23 gears to help out too.