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Transmissions Coolers

Red63440

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In my researching transmission coolers I came up with some interesting although basic information that I felt may be useful to those wanting to learn a little about the coolers before they start shopping.

There are four basic types available one being the "Heat Sink" style which can be mounted just about anywhere. Heat is passed off to the outside aluminum finned housing and comes in single and dual pass with various lengths available. This cooler can be mounted on a frame rail if needed and does not need to be mounted in front of the radiator. Although carried by Summit, Jegs and Mancini the BTU rating of this unit is low and would not be recommended for high performance use.

The second and most common would be the tube and fin style known to many of us and manufactured by Hayden, B&M, Flex-a-lite and several others. They come in several sizes and the ability to cool is normally measured in the number of passes the tubing makes through the fins. These units can also be purchased with an optional cooling fan which allows them to be mounted in other locations other than in front of the radiator. The units have good cooling abilities when mounted in front of the radiators but can be prone to damage due to road debris.

The third style is a Fin and Plate cooler is a modification of the tube and fin. The round tubes have been formed into a flatter plate which gives is a stronger body and more air surface. It too can be mounted in front of the radiator or in a remote location with a fan. This unit is built the same as as an A/C condenser.

The forth style is the Stacked Plate style which is a rigid type cooler with superior cooling and of course a higher price. These too can be purchased with an optional fan for remote mounting and are usually made from 6061 aluminum and actually look pretty strong. Instead of the normal 4,6,8 passes of the tube and fin these coolers can give up to 30 rows of plates in a much smaller foot print.

Coolers are rated by two standards, GVW and BTU so the larger you go the higher the GVW and BTU's that will be removed. The standard style found in most of our cars is built into the lower tank of the radiator. These are stacked plate style coolers and are normally 3 to 5 rows and use the coolant in the radiator to cool the transmission. Since transmission fluid can run over 210 degrees and higher the heat that is transfered can affect the cooling of your car and visa versa. Removing the transmission lines from your radiator and running them to a remote cooler can lower the transmission fluid temp by 20 degrees or more based on the BTU rating of your cooler not to mention the operating temp of your engine.

This posting is only for those who are looking for a cooler and would like to look into the several types available in todays market.
 

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Thanks Red for taking the time to relay this to all of us!!! You are appreciated!!!
 
Thanks for informative post...very interesting..

Found this information interesting in regards to running fluid through the radiator first and then cooler.(found on bobisoilguy) in regards to "Removing the transmission lines from your radiator and running them to a remote cooler can lower the transmission fluid temp by 20 degrees or more based on the BTU rating of your cooler not to mention the operating temp of your engine."...any thoughts on this?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=552266

'I prefer the factory routing: in-tank heat exchanger followed by auxilary cooler. (Hemi Cudas and Mopar Police Pursuit Package is the reference).

One, the transmission fluid is slower to warm than the coolant, so this eases chemical problems associated with slow warm-up.

Two, the temperature is stabilized in year-round operation.

Three, a proper auxilary fluid-to-air heat exchanger can be mounted in the path of the main or mechanical fan for cooling improvements at low speeds (under 30 mph; parking maneuvers alone can really heat up a tranny [as can prolonged stop-and-go driving]).

Four, a "stacked-plate" heat exchanger can bypass colder fluid until heat thins it out enough to flow thru the body of the unit.

Finally, the addition of an inline filter after the coolers is a nice piece of insurance. (I'm using MAGNEFINE on p/s and a/t applications now).

As to fluids, of course one should purchase quality, but transmissions live longest with less than 175F temperatures in the sump. No fluid alone will match the benefit of temperature reduction.

The addition of an auxilary cooler is pretty much a guarantee of 150k from the oem unit, IMO, and is the final piece of a regular service program for that very expensive component. Flush at least every 30k (I prefer annually).

Lubricating fluids need to be brought quickly to operating temperature and then NOT allowed to endure temperature/pressure spikes. When enough of those have added up, then it's time to rebuild or replace. Temperature consistency (a narrow range) is the key."
 
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