Turbo Duster. The never ending battle

[dvw]

Someday I will be able to install a part that just bolts in, ya right. It's been awhile since I've updated this build. The engine and trans are in, exhaust is on. The engine compartment is wired except for mounting and terminating the fan relay. The waste gate, and blow off are all plumbed. Fuel system is plumbed. Throttle and kick down cables are installed and adjusted. Lowering blocks fabbed and installed. Pinion angle has been verified. Of course the K frame wasn't trimmed quite far enough and hit the pan. Had to trim, weld and metal finish the flange with the oil pan jammed into it. The exhaust clamps hit the front rail flange and the firewall, so reworks thereas well. The front accelerator pump arm hit the fuel line. Thought the dash all functioned on the bench, the LF turn signal indictor now doesnt wok. Had to pull the column (again) the bezel and the cluster. There was no ground for the indicator. The ground nut for the circuit board is 1/2" from the bulb. Though it was tight a loosen and retighten fixed it. The shift rod under thaconsole was rubbing the shifter mounting bracket. R&R the console to clearance that. Ordered aChampion radiator and Spal fan. I forgot to think about the angle of the lower hose outlet. So it's at my friend Kyles getting a bung for the fan temp sender and the outlet neck moved. Fabbed up a trans overflow can today. Hopefully it'll be running by the end of the month.
Doug

 

[dvw]

More pics

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Wow, your car is amazing. Yes, the struggle is real...you fight up a hill and somebody builds a bigger hill

 

[66 Sat]

Ahh the joys of hotrodding...

 

[khryslerkid]

You like it! Gives you something to do.

Any estimate on horse power?

 

[cornpicker]

Nice build, did you do the welding ? nice job !

 

[Aron Gleason]

Thats going to be one Amazing car once it's done. But I've never seen fuel line go into the carburetor on the driver's side like that.

 

[dvw]

This isn't my car. I'm doing it for a friend. The tig welding on the exhaust is my friend Kyle. The K frame notch, axle narrowing, fuel line pass thrus are me. Would'v been easier to run the lines from the passenger side. But it looks cleaner on the left. Though is was tricky to get it all to fit. Same with hiding all the wiring, no junction block. Lots of little details that you don't notice unless you look deep enough. Thats the fun part of the build. I bult the engine and trans, narrowed the rear axle, moved the rear springs as well. This car started here.
Doug

 

[Aron Gleason]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to run all my wiring under the dash for toggle switches, and the hot wires for tach, line lock, fuel pump, and electric fan. But I want it looking clean. Any ideas.

 

[dvw]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to run all my wiring under the dash for toggle switches, and the hot wires for tach, line lock, fuel pump, and electric fan. But I want it looking clean. Any ideas.

I did the dash on the bench. Made it way easier. In the car you need to start at the source to find your light circuit, battery circuit, and key on circuit. Battery and lights can be accessed at the back side of the fuse block. It is easy to remove the block on the early stuff with one screw. The key on (ignition) is a little tougher. Ignition is the blue wire from the ignition switch. It's pretty thick. If you are only powering low amp draw stuff you can use the radio feed wire. Such as using relays (or tach which draws very little power) and then power the item (fan, pump, etc) with battery power controled by ignition. Run a relay near the fan and fuel pump. If the battery is in the rear pull power from the starter relay or alternator stud. If the battery is in the front you still want a relay at the fuel pump, but place it close to your source of battery power. It'll take 12 gauge wire to run both to the relay, the wiring to the pump/fan, and the grounds themselves. The switched wire can be very thin. Run your source wires out to a small aftermarket remote fuse block. Start the routing from there from your desired item location along with any sender wires (tach signal, gauge signal, line lock feed) to your switches and gauges. Pick a spot for exit in the firewall. It works easiest if your opening is close to the orignal wiring block in the firewall. If you are real trcky sometimes I use empty cavities in the factory firewall block. Drill thru thru a unused cavity and run the wire thru it. Bundle evething together (zip tie to and existing factory harness). Then route to your item in the engine compartment. Start with plenty of length. Don't trim until you like the routing and are ready to make the connection. The fuel pump wiring can run along the left sill with the factory taillight bundle. Leave evreything long until it gets to the switch or gauge. Bundling the wires together with small zip ties instead of tape. It's easier and makes trouble shooting much easier. The last cars I did dont even have a firewall bulkhead. On the Duster the front wiring goes under th edrivers fender. You can see the engine wiring comes thru just below the wiper motor. My racecar has the wiring in the RF frame rail and comes out at the motor plate. Trust me it all starts messy just keep routing until it loks like you want. Then put all the terminals on. Don't be afraid to pull a wire back and reroute.
Doug

 

[cornpicker]

You are a crafty guy, love your way of thinking and execution of the details. One of the few real Craftsmen left !

 

[dvw]

You like it! Gives you something to do.

Any estimate on horse power?

Since this a street car with no roll bar or Dana the boost will be turned down to about 13-14psi. My guess is if it hooks it should run 10.30's in street trim. We had to swap the intake to a Torker for hood clearance. It also has 3 1/2" exhaust as that's as big as would fit between the torsion bar and the trans. Other than that it's the same combo. We ran this motor with a M-1 intake and 4" exhaust in my sons 62 Savoy at 22psi. It made it's best pass in street trim (same tires as on the street and full exhaust) of 9.55@142 3775lbs. The calculated power on that run was about 875. Even early on with the torker, factory iron heads, 255/60 drag radials, and a 2.76 gear it ran 10.60's. It was about 650hp back then. This car is probably about 300lbs lighter.
Doug

 

[PlymCrazy]

I'm thoroughly impressed every time I see you post progress on this build

 

[Aron Gleason]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to run all my wiring under the dash for toggle switches, and the hot wires for tach, line lock, fuel pump, and electric fan. But I want it looking clean. Any ideas.

I did the dash on the bench. Made it way easier. In the car you need to start at the source to find your light circuit, battery circuit, and key on circuit. Battery and lights can be accessed at the back side of the fuse block. It is easy to remove the block on the early stuff with one screw. The key on (ignition) is a little tougher. Ignition is the blue wire from the ignition switch. It's pretty thick. If you are only powering low amp draw stuff you can use the radio feed wire. Such as using relays (or tach which draws very little power) and then power the item (fan, pump, etc) with battery power controled by ignition. Run a relay near the fan and fuel pump. If the battery is in the rear pull power from the starter relay or alternator stud. If the battery is in the front you still want a relay at the fuel pump, but place it close to your source of battery power. It'll take 12 gauge wire to run both to the relay, the wiring to the pump/fan, and the grounds themselves. The switched wire can be very thin. Run your source wires out to a small aftermarket remote fuse block. Start the routing from there from your desired item location along with any sender wires (tach signal, gauge signal, line lock feed) to your switches and gauges. Pick a spot for exit in the firewall. It works easiest if your opening is close to the orignal wiring block in the firewall. If you are real trcky sometimes I use empty cavities in the factory firewall block. Drill thru thru a unused cavity and run the wire thru it. Bundle evething together (zip tie to and existing factory harness). Then route to your item in the engine compartment. Start with plenty of length. Don't trim until you like the routing and are ready to make the connection. The fuel pump wiring can run along the left sill with the factory taillight bundle. Leave evreything long until it gets to the switch or gauge. Bundling the wires together with small zip ties instead of tape. It's easier and makes trouble shooting much easier. The last cars I did dont even have a firewall bulkhead. On the Duster the front wiring goes under th edrivers fender. You can see the engine wiring comes thru just below the wiper motor. My racecar has the wiring in the RF frame rail and comes out at the motor plate. Trust me it all starts messy just keep routing until it loks like you want. Then put all the terminals on. Don't be afraid to pull a wire back and reroute.
Doug


View attachment 1588610

View attachment 1588611

Thank you for the detailed explanation of how to run the wires.

 

[rmchrgr]

I did the dash on the bench. Made it way easier.

At this point in my own Duster project, the only thing I haven't taken out of the car is the dash and windshield. Trying to situate the harness on my back looking up from the floor is not the best way to go about this job and probably why it's causing me so much grief.

I also have brand new window gaskets which I'd like to install. Taking out the glass would also allow me to tighten up the headliner. And while I have the dash out, I can drill some holes through the top of the frame to accommodate any future roll cage plans.

I probably should bite the bullet and do it, would make things easier.

Looking forward to seeing the finished project.

 

[dvw]

Getting to the end. Ordered up a Champion radiator with the oulets in the correct location. But with the tight packaging we had my friend Kyle change the angles. I mocked it up with a cardboard template. We added a bung for th efan temp sender as well. My son swore that the rad, fan and shroud wouldn't fit in the stock location. Well with a lot of measuring and fitting it cn be done. Mounted a Spal fan on some 3/4" aluminum angle. With the turbo so close the radiator was offset 1" to the drivers side.The fan sets as far to the drivers side as well. Went hose hunting at my local auto parts (Mazza's, I'll give them a plug great people) and found a couple that fit the bill. Now to make a shroud. I had some .030" aluminum so that's what was used. I had the idea but no real plans. We measured and cut. Used all my high tech tools to bend it up. Not perfect but it came out pretty decent. It's amazing what you can do with 2x4's, tin snips, and a hammer. Fabbed up a bracket fot the trans overflow, mounted the trans cooler. Another high tech idea, ya right. 3 bolts. Simple is good. Trans lines tommorow.
Doug

 

[dvw]

In the car.
Doug