Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

[493 Mike]

Here's mine on my 1964 Polara. I did not like the idea of running the lines outside of the inner fender. I ran the A/C lines inside of engine compartment to the under dash unit. I used a molded 5/8" hose to turn the heater hoses around to come through firewal lin approximate location of original on driver side. I hung all the A/C lines with '66-'67 heater hose brackets on passenger side. Black box on heater hose is hot water shutoff valve. I adapted V.A. control panel onto original heater control bezel.

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I'm not a fan of the worm screw hose clamps, they do lose clamping pressure with time, although spring loaded worm clamps are available. I like the molded hose for routing to your requirements. I used Dodge Dakota hoses at the engine connections on my setup.
Mike

 

[493 Mike]

Awesome. That's not a Vintage Air unit is it? Yes. The Vintage Air unit for my 68 does not have a support bracket like yours (brackets are the responsibility of the installer), only firewall bolts that connect to a Vintage Air bracket under dash. I also really dig your dash AC control. The location and arrangement is so much better than the stock setup for our 68-69 B bodies. I originally bought a solid state Vintage Air replacement for my 68 that went in the same location, but I dislike it so much and had an interior shop that does these installs tell me that rotary controls are easier to calibrate and behave better, so instead I ordered a Vintage Air 3 knob controller - exact mounting location still TBD. Since my car is at Greg's shop, maybe he can post a photo of this.

Please excuse me for commenting answers here but, I do know some answers.
Mike

 

[JC Boatguy]

My 65 Belvedere system. I used wire loom for hose protection.
Mike
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Nice Work!!!!!!!!!!

 

[70ChargerRT]

I went with the build your own system. Easy peasy! Note the Gates Power Grip heater hose clamps and the hose springs.
Hose Kits and Fittings - Vintage Air
Mike
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I’m making the switch to the power clamps as soon as I And get the time.

 

[RemCharger]

Here's some pics of my buddy's mustang build. I like the push lok hose fittings without clamps

 

[Kern Dog]

Frustration continues.
I may have mentioned this before but it bears repeating....When you have a LOT of options, you sometimes have too many decisions to make, each with one drawback or another. This system absolutely fits that description.
Vintage Evaporators like this that lack the extended fittings as seen in the CAA kit mean that the installer has to figure out a way through the firewall. Going through the engine bay is the simplest on the engine side and the hardest on the interior/dash side because the lines are cramped between the firewall and evaporator.
Going through the wheel well is easiest on the inside but then you have to find a way into the engine bay. The instructions show to route them fore/aft along the wheel side of the fender apron, then through what is currently the block off plate for access to the UCA alignment cam nut. The instructions...

....Show these pre-bent lines to go through the access hole using a supplied replacement cover.

Those lines are necessary in order to clear the tire since here is the obstacle there:

The right tire at full LEFT leaves very little room.

Not even a good 3 fingers wide and I have a set of fittings like this:

The left side is the wheel side, right is the engine side. The bends are not tight enough to make 3 fingers wide and I sure want more clearance to leave room for wider wheels and tires later.

I could mount the manifold up higher...

See the gray tape? That could be the location for the manifold you see sitting atop the fender cover.

Again, without their pre-bent lines, this would work but then the #6 line to the drier (located near the LH headlights) will need several bends and creative fitment to work.

Another option is to mount the manifold behind the suspension and just run the lines through the engine bay.
I have to pick something or this will never get done.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

that's why I gave it to you I didn't want to face this headache all on my own. Good progress and points to consider. Due to tire clearance, definitely not through the UCA cam adjustment cover.

 

[dadsbee]

Time to move Greg !!

 

[Kern Dog]

This is my car....see where the drier is mounted ?

I could put this manifold there:

It would allow me to run the lines from the evaporator inside through the firewall up high in the wheel well, then turn left to the fender apron. From there, it is a fairly simple run for the heater hoses (To the water pump housing) one A/C line to the compressor and the smaller A/C line over the core support and to the condenser.
I'd love to get input from Randy though... @1 Wild R/T .

Red square here:

Blue square here:

Back here, the lines will clear everything. The interior plumbing would be easier since the lines pass through the firewall further from the evaporator, allowing them to make the bends without binding or kinking. The only drawback I see is that it still results in the lines almost entirely in the engine bay which does mean a bit more "busy/cluttered" sort of look. This may be the easiest routing for the installation.

 

[Kern Dog]

I may have stumbled upon a solution.
Originally, I had intended to put the 4 port manifold here:

That would make the engine side plumbing pretty simple. All the lines would just run forward and split off near the alternator. Clean and neat.
Then when I looked underneath at how cramped it is inside, I looked at the alternatives.
The path through the wheel well has its own pros and cons. The idea last night was to go through the wheel well only to make the EVAP connections simpler, then mount the manifold on the fender apron sort of close to the firewall anyway. While I think that would still work, I wanted to look closer to see if I could actually make the plumbing work using some fittings with creative shapes.
I made a cardboard template to depict the manifold pattern and stuck it to the inside.

You can see the yellow capped heater lines. They are about twice as long as I’d prefer. I may have to find a way to reflare them. The heater hoses are the easy part. I might be able to find some molded ones with a bend in them. The hardest one is the #6 line. It points straight down.

Using a 22 degree angle fitting like so:

….when attached in a similar fashion as seen, may allow me to make a “loop” and meet the firewall at a 90 degree angle….

Using an elbow…

This might work.

The #10 A/C port is further away from the firewall and the access is excellent.

I could use a straight fitting as shown and make another looped line or use an angle fitting….

This makes only a slight offset if I go with the upper left port on the manifold.
I think this can work.
In keeping with my habit of trying to predict obstacles, (so I can avoid them)… the drawbacks to this are few. I’d have to have the lines crimped and installed before I give the car back to Dwayne. I’d originally thought I’d install the unit and ducts, wire it then his A/C guy would finish the lines and charge the system. To do that now puts a strain on the A/C guy and I’m sure his hourly rate is MORE than mine!
Second possible drawback:

The loop of the #6 hose could put it within kicking range of a passenger. Imagine the mess if a line breaks inside!
Maybe a 90 degree fitting at the EVAP and the manifold both would help?
I’ll test and report back.

 

[Kern Dog]

Here it is with 90 degree fittings on both the evaporator and at the manifold end.

It looks like the #6 line will still fit and work.

I may have to run the #10 line the same way just to allow for some movement.

 

[Kern Dog]

Mock up.

This actually makes more sense than trying to make a straight/sort of offset shot. The half loop allows some flex and will be much easier to install. I could get the hose length exact, have the lines crimped then attach them to the evaporator while it is on the table, then just attach the other ends once the evaporator is in place for good. All I need is approval from “corporate”, then I can proceed. There still is the matter of ducts and wiring inside but …. One battle at a time.

 

[Kern Dog]

The instructions…

Step one:

They include this shorter/shallower glove box liner:

Look how it compares to the stock one.

Why use the plastic one? Is the evaporator that much thicker?

The stock cardboard one seemed to fit in there fine.

From underneath, you can see that there is still room to spare.

Why use the shallow plastic one?
Does anyone know why?
Dwayne took notes awhile back…

 

[Kern Dog]

Be careful mounting the air box per instructions, one of the wipers will contact a servo. Instructions say to mount level the tech support said to tilt it to clear but the arm can be bent a touch to clear it. My buddy ran into this and has a Classic unit in his other B-body that fits better.

I took another look.

You’re right. It is close. I’m going to slowly cycle the wipers and look for potential interference.
Thank you.

 

[Kern Dog]

The only obstacle I can see that might interfere with using the stock glove box is the electrical connectors.

I’d sure rather keep this stock glove box insert. The replacement is so shallow.

 

[Kern Dog]

The option of running the lines out of the interior through the wheel well are still a possibility.

Looking to the left of the page, you see the five holes surrounding two vertical ridges in the firewall. Those ridges are visible to the right of the following pictures.

This would eliminate the u-turn bends in the A/C lines and actually help the heater hoses too. No matter which way is selected, the fresh air box cannot fit back in there. The plumbing is in the way.

 

[Kern Dog]

Looks like we lucked out on wiper arm Clearance.

This is at the closest point. It clears by over a half inch.

The wiring?

Seems adequate to me but time will tell.

 

[Kern Dog]

The receiver/dryer was mounted before I got the car.

It is forward of the condenser and on the drivers side. I like the fact that it is not taking up space in the engine bay. I do have one concern though.

There needs to be some type of low pressure switch in between the evaporator and this dryer.
The drawing shows it on the dryer. Could this nut have a port to mount the switch?

If I put the switch there, I have to run the power wire from the a/c compressor to it, then inside the car.
My Classic Auto Air setup had a hardline with the switch in it just off the firewall.

I suppose I can do something similar to simplify the path of the positive wire.
I’ll need to make a list of things to ask the people at Vintage Air.

 

[493 Mike]

The receiver/dryer was mounted before I got the car.

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It is forward of the condenser and on the drivers side. I like the fact that it is not taking up space in the engine bay. I do have one concern though.

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There needs to be some type of low pressure switch in between the evaporator and this dryer.
The drawing shows it on the dryer. Could this nut have a port to mount the switch? Yes. Has this drier been open to the atmosphere? If so, replace it.

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If I put the switch there, I have to run the power wire from the a/c compressor to it, then inside the car.
My Classic Auto Air setup had a hardline with the switch in it just off the firewall.

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I suppose I can do something similar to simplify the path of the positive wire.
I’ll need to make a list of things to ask the people at Vintage Air.

 

[Kern Dog]

Mike, your post put your words next to mine. I opened it and see what you wrote.
No, the drier/dryer... (Which spelling is correct?) ...has a cap on the right fitting as seen in the picture.

I'd sure rather put the switch near the firewall for simplicity.