Want to add Vacuum advance!!!

[1 MEAN66]

Info attached is basic "stuff" about the engine. Have a 1050 Dominator ( model 8896) NO vacuum ports. Really want to go to fuel injection - BUT - did new windows and roof on house so: Figure I can make it more "street able" by adding vacuum advance. Have MSD; 6AL box, Blaster coil, and Billet dist. (8546). think a good choice for new Dist. would be a model 8387. Will set up initial and mechanical advance same as what I have now.
Problem is no vacuum port for the advance vacuum source. I have a 1" spacer under the carb. thinking of drilling a hole in it ( somewhere ) and put a piece of 3/16th brake line there. Leave the Flare on the line and make sure it is sealed tight in it's hole. Questions are: BE NICE ABOUT ANSWERS I"M OLD!!!!
1) anyone tried this? 2) Centered between throttle plates, under one? Front of manifold i would of course think! 3) as close to carb. as possible?
I assume I could get a few spacers and try a few different things to try and find a reasonable place to try and get ported vacuum. As most carbs get ported vacuum just below the throttle plates, but are passages in the carb. If I were to change the carb. I would be half way to fuel injection.
By the way looking to get 20mpg out of this mod. - which would be better then the 10 - ? I am getting. but there is a problem with both Rebecca's and my right foot, so who knows.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If you have a flaring tool, a simple one see link. You put twice as much tube as recommended for a double flare. Then put the piece in like you were starting a double flare. Put the to compress the tube until tube bulges a little and stop. I do fuel lines like that. https://www.grainger.com/product/3C...ucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231

 

[mopar jack]

.
to get ported vacuum you need a port above the throttle plates. You can pick up manifold vacuum usually at the back of the intake manifold and use a fitting similar to this one,

 

[69L48Z27]

How much vacuum does your setup make? I read ‘1050 Dominator’ and vacuum advance was not my first thought. Check what vacuum the engine pulls and then see what the distributor advance needs to operate before you go to the trouble of drilling and making an extra port. I read the spec sheet you attached and I’m not sure your going to pull enough vacuum to make it work. Also, I don’t think vacuum advance will make this more ‘street able’ if does have enough to operate.

 

[Scott Engelhardt]

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...ne-your-vacuum-advance-for-better-drivability
I know this is from a Chevy site but lots of great info

 

[Meep-Meep]

Ported vacuum is above the primary throttle blade but ideally you should find out how much throttle opening you have during cruise before drilling holes. A 1050 dominator is a lot of carb and I'd question that choice before modifying it. As a basic rule, a carb too big will never meter properly no matter what you do and you can take that to the bank.

 

[RemCharger]

Its weird that they don't make an economy version of the Dominator already

 

[Meep-Meep]

Its weird that they don't make an economy version of the Dominator already

That's actually a funny comment!

 

[yella71]

You ARE NOT going to get an extra 10 MPG from vacuum advance. Your wasting your time. put in a 4 cyl if thats what your looking for.

 

[1 MEAN66]

How much vacuum does your setup make? I read ‘1050 Dominator’ and vacuum advance was not my first thought. Check what vacuum the engine pulls and then see what the distributor advance needs to operate before you go to the trouble of drilling and making an extra port. I read the spec sheet you attached and I’m not sure your going to pull enough vacuum to make it work. Also, I don’t think vacuum advance will make this more ‘street able’ if does have enough to operate.

Ya I agree, that's why I started asking questions here. I think if I'm lucky I might get 9 inches. think I would like 14 or better. But have no way of knowing till I make a port somewhere. Have written to MSD for there thoughts. Got to check the manifold ( Mopar M1) for ports. Car is covered now and I don't recall but believe there are none, and do not know if I want to try making one. My plan was to add my port by drilling hole and adding a piece of 3/16's brake line into the spacer itself. It has been a ton of years, but if I remember carb. theory back in College, as the throttle plates open the vacuum "signal" travels up the intake towards the carb.? If my memory still works then putting in the brake line as a vacuum port in the throttle spacer may act like ported vacuum? So as RPM goes up, so would the vacuum at that passage, and if that works I would have "Mickey Mouse" ported vacuum which may give me a vacuum advance at a cruising RPM, without the risk of ruining a intake manifold. This should help burning the fuel entering the cylinders as the spark of course will start earlier, Helping to prevent excess fuel from washing cylinders and contaminating the oil, fuel mileage may even go up a couple of points. If I put it in the back of the manifold I think I will have a high signal all the time, that is why most vehicles used a port there for the brake booster. Will see what MSD suggests. Maybe just go ahead and do injection. Will let ya all know.

 

[myk r sanchez]

I think if I'm lucky I might get 9 inches. think I would like 14 or better.

Thats what she said...

 

[1 MEAN66]

You ARE NOT going to get an extra 10 MPG from vacuum advance. Your wasting your time. put in a 4 cyl if thats what your looking for.

Its weird that they don't make an economy version of the Dominator already

That was the purpose of the model 8896. NOT economy per say, but a much more "streetable" carb. 1050's are just designed to flow large amounts of air, they are not every day carb's but this is NOT an everyday vehicle. Car will actually idle at 900 RPM in gear. Took a long time paying with both air and fuel jets.
To yella 71= the 20mpg was my attempt at humor! I actually get 9-10 and think it would be great if it got to 12. Even that would be a long shot. Main reason is to prevent oil contamination with all the fuel that carb can deliver. Hell the carb. has two 50cc accel. pumps. Have to be careful just starting it for fear of drowning it. Figure a bit of vacuum ( cruise ) advance can start the burn process earlier and help. I sent the carb. out to Muscle motors when engine was being built ( it started its life as their Killer Krate). The 1050 helped raise HP & TQ numbers - Mike Ware - who I ordered from and believe did the build, actually thought he might get it to 700 with the 1050 and other stuff he suggest and I agreed to. They used on a 950 normally. And Mr. Ware as part of break in and set up on the dyno got the carb. all jetted set up for me (as he has a light year more skill then I ) also gave me things to try once it was in the vehicle, if acted different. Just trying to improve NOT REENGINEER.
To all those reading this forum, take it easy on the OLD GUY I'm not Stupid just OLD. People write in these forums looking for suggestions. We all have our own ideas based on our own knowledge. Some of you are more knowledgeable then me. That is the reason for seeking suggestions and ideas.
PS anyone living near Albany NY and is near by ( when car is out on road) stop by a visit. MOPAR people are all FAMILY. I'll take ya for a ride in it. I would let Rebecca but that is scary, she really does not care for the brake pedal or realize the throttle does not have to be at idle or on the carpet!

 

[RemCharger]

The 1050 helped raise HP & TQ numbers - Mike actually thought he might get it to 700 with the 1050, they use on a 950 normally.

Question answered internally. 4150 for the win

 

[threewood]

If it's running good, leave it alone. A vacuum advance ain't going to make a lick of difference with a 1050 carb.

What's your initial and total advance right now?

I played with my 800 AVS with and without vacuum advance and couldn't tell a difference. I'm running 21/37 advance.

 

[mopar jack]

1mean66 I hope that tarantula looking vacuum fitting didn't sway you away from the intake as a source for vacuum advance. Those fittings come in many shapes. I attached a pic of the one on my 6 pack manifold. Most manifolds will have a 3/8 inch pipe thread port for vacuum to operate power brakes and other accessories.

 

[1 MEAN66]

Ported vacuum is above the primary throttle blade but ideally you should find out how much throttle opening you have during cruise before drilling holes. A 1050 dominator is a lot of carb and I'd question that choice before modifying it. As a basic rule, a carb too big will never meter properly no matter what you do and you can take that to the bank.

My plan was Not to do anything to the carb. itself (well beyond my skill) just to add a port some where in the intake and/or spacer as a supply to the vacuum can on the dist. I do not know what the vac. is in the manifold at different RPM's or in the spacer at any RPM. Do not know if I really even want to drill a tap a hole in the manifold itself. My guess is it might be easier to set. up engine playing with manifold vacuum? So my question to all is has anyone actually tried something like this? Otherwise I will same and add a sniper injection system. Which I believe (am I correct) not only controls flow of fuel but also all timings ( except initial).

 

[Meep-Meep]

My plan was Not to do anything to the carb. itself (well beyond my skill) just to add a port some where in the intake and/or spacer as a supply to the vacuum can on the dist. I do not know what the vac. is in the manifold at different RPM's or in the spacer at any RPM. Do not know if I really even want to drill a tap a hole in the manifold itself. My guess is it might be easier to set. up engine playing with manifold vacuum? So my question to all is has anyone actually tried something like this? Otherwise I will same and add a sniper injection system. Which I believe (am I correct) not only controls flow of fuel but also all timings ( except initial).

Doing what you suggest will give you manifold vacuum to the distributor, which you do not want to do. Don't rely on a vacuum signal to set base timing with the possibility of having the timing retard as you tip in and loose vacuum.

 

[1 MEAN66]

If it's running good, leave it alone. A vacuum advance ain't going to make a lick of difference with a 1050 carb.

What's your initial and total advance right now?

I played with my 800 AVS with and without vacuum advance and couldn't tell a difference. I'm running 21/37 advance.

Initial at 12 (@ 1,000RPM) , total 38 at 3,000. As stated above I just feel adding a cruise vacuum help it run better at a steady cruise which at 40 - 60 is 2500 - 3200. Fuel is going in the cylinders if spark starts a bit earlier better burn. Of course the only way to now for sure would be to install Fast wide band fuel ratio meter. Or dyno time. Of the two the meter would be probably a lower cost, and could be used a many vehicles. My guess would be I am now at a low 12 to 1 maybe with vacuum I could get it to low to mid 13's
PS went back and added stuff to my responses above.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Initial at 12 (@ 1,000RPM) , total 38 at 3,000. As stated above I just feel adding a cruise vacuum help it run better at a steady cruise which at 40 - 60 is 2500 - 3200. Fuel is going in the cylinders if spark starts a bit earlier better burn. Of course the only way to now for sure would be to install Fast wide band fuel ratio meter. Or dyno time. Of the two the meter would be probably a lower cost, and could be used a many vehicles. My guess would be I am now at a low 12 to 1 maybe with vacuum I could get it to low to mid 13's
PS went back and added stuff to my responses above.

Completely agree. But the vac advance needs to be ported and the strong signal in proper position with the throttle blade at light load cruise.

 

[1 MEAN66]

Completely agree. But the vac advance needs to be ported and the strong signal in proper position with the throttle blade at light load cruise.

That I understand. But with my limited knowledge do not know where to tap into to get that "signal". I DO NOT have the skill to drill anywhere on a carb. Do Not want to buy another carb. Money will be better spent on a injection system- but money not there yet as stated. Looking for a "stop gap". Any suggestions as to where in the intake track to tap in? Back of manifold would be full vacuum most all the time? Correct? that is why I thought up in the spacer plate. I have a spacer 2nd spacer plate so maybe the answer is to put a port in it and see what it does.