• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Weld Drag Lights I think

Vanderstel

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:12 AM
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
161
Reaction score
109
Location
Escondido, CA
Having a real problem with this rim. I believe it's a Drag Light? It's date stamped 12-04. They came on the car, so I have no history. Anyway, I was getting a weird grinding noise and taking a closer look at this rim, something seems to be wrong. Maybe I'm not getting a good seat to the wheel hub, maybe the rim isn't torquing down correctly? At this point I can't get the lug nuts out, see the image, too bad I can't attach a video. In this picture I'm tugging on the nut and it's not coming out. I'm not sure if some damage has occurred with the rim. Two of the nuts are stripped so, I was thinking I'd replace them as well as the wheel studs, they don't look good either.

I had a tire shop flip the tires around, I didn't want white letters facing out, I wonder if they might have dorked them up.

I just thought it strange the nuts aren't coming out.

Could I utilize the other bolt holes if the current ones are damaged?

Looking for help?

WeldWheel.png


WeldWheel02.png
 
Is this front or back.
Is this on screw in studs or press in.
Are the studs long enough for the application.
Just a few answer needed from you to help.

And yes they look like weld drag lites.
 
Old Kimmel is correct The end of the lugs are flared out from being put on with a impact gun as the lugs were probably a tad long RC
 
Just keep outward pressure on the wheel as you loosen, few turns then to the next one,
Keep pulling on the wheel & going around the pattern until it comes off.
 
yeah, they've been hammered in. See image. I found new ones, I'll be trying them soon.

IMG_7214.jpeg
 
Get new lugs from Weld. Get new washers from Weld, they are special for these wheels. I would get their open end nuts if your going to race.. Check wheel studs for damage to threads. Inside holes in wheels will need to be checked for chaffing and cleaned. Clean and lube everything. Assemble with socket and extension and hand power on your ratchet. Make sure nuts go in smooth. You may need to wiggle wheel a little while going in. If 1/2" X 3" studs torque to 90 Lbs. and retorque after a few passes. Go slow and check your work. Next time need service I would jack and remove at home and take to reputable shop. Thanks, Dave.
 
McGard makes nice lug nuts for Weld Wheels.
 
I found some equivalents at Oreilly's but when I got them home the shank diameter wasn't the same, smaller diameter, they'll be returned.

I found some online made by Weld, I got a part number from talking to a guy at Weld. So I'll be using their own products.
 
I found some equivalents at Oreilly's but when I got them home the shank diameter wasn't the same, smaller diameter, they'll be returned.

I found some online made by Weld, I got a part number from talking to a guy at Weld. So I'll be using their own products.
 
Found the correct Weld nuts and everything went together perfectly. Yeah, the tire shop hosed me over.

Have to be more careful next time.
 
The studs should be a least the thickness of the wheel center also.
 
I'm late to this thread, but I always run 3" studs, and open end lugs with ANY thick center wheel, front or rear. (Weld, Centerline, Supertricks, TT2s with conical seats)
 
Found the correct Weld nuts and everything went together perfectly. Yeah, the tire shop hosed me over.

Have to be more careful next time.
Its not the tire shops fault. Unless they sold you the nuts. If not they are what you drove into the shop on.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top