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Welders, Need Mig, Help Choose!

txracer

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Hi everyone,
Need to purchase a mig welder for my Road Runner project. Would be curious what kind other members have in their garage. Pros and Cons!
I have been looking at Millermatic 140, Millermatic 135, and lincoln 140c. I guess i have been looking at welders that have infinite voltage along with wire speed controls. I have 110 and 220 in garage. This welder would probably be used just for body work, and probably not that often,

thanks for any information!
txracer
 
The smaller welders are great for sheetmetal work, but there are times when you'll need the bigger (220), so get the biggest you can and you wont be sorry. What I mean is, if you need to build a rotisserie, the bigger will metal that metal together lickity split, the smaller one will struggle and would you feel safe under something that has questionable penetration. Penetration is the key, not how it looks, that comes with time and practice.
 
I had a millermatic 135 for several years till I had a prick break in my shop and steal it. It was a very nice little machine and I had no issues with it. The miller 140 is just the replacement for the 135 , but it has the auto set feature. I would also look into the millermatic 211 it is 110 and 220 compatable, for if you have the need in the future to work on thicker material you can plug it right in to 220 and keep moving. I have heard a lot of good reviews on that machine and the dual voltage makes it a nice welder. So just thought you might want to look at it. It seems to be better to buy as big of a welder as possible when you are buying as you can turn them down , but not up. Plus I like miller welders. Just my thoughts, Matt
 
Miller and Lincoln both make great MIG welders for small-med projects. I have a Millermatic 140. Works Great!
 
I've got an old Clarke 100 something - I think it's a 135. Payed $90 at a swap meet; works good for my crappy skills. I'm sure it would be even better if I knew what i was doing. :icon_axe:


_
 
I use a Century 125 mig for my sheet metal work.I have a couple and have no problems.
 
Miller 140 used it to build the jig that I am restoring my car on and to do the sheet metal work with no issues and great penetration even on the thicker structural steel. On some of the structural welding I beveled the stock a little more and made a couple of passes.
 
If i was looking to get a new one i would buy a Hobart.Built by Miller and half the cost.
 
If i was looking to get a new one i would buy a Hobart.Built by Miller and half the cost.

And there's a reason they're half the cost. They're not as robust. Don't get me wrong, Hobarts are fine machines for the DIY'er, but it's most likely a onetime investment so why not go with the upgrade now and be done with it.

I just bought this unit and absolutely love it:
http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/shop/products/millermatic-211-mig-welder-907422.cfm

These guys sell on eBay as well.
 
True and to your point, I think if the OP sticks to the better brands ie. Hobart, Miller, Lincoln, he'll do well with whichever one he chooses.
 
If you can afford it start off with a Miller 140 min if you can afford it get a 180 Mller. The Lincolns are also very good. Please don't buy a harbor frieght unit simply cause your hurting a fellow American who might be working in that Miller or Lincoln Plant. I have a Miller 140 fine for sheet metal work. It also is pretty good for up to 1/8 plate. But with 110 volt welders penetration takes longer. With a nice used Miller 220 the difefrence is noticable if you get into 1/4 work. I also have a Miller Ideal Arc Tig machine if you really want to jump start to the top get a small tig machine and your in the drivers seat.
 
welder

I Thought Tig generated alot of heat? Guess I need the welders guide for idiots! I have seen some spot welders selling for around 250-300 But also know that I would need multiple tips to reach all the areas. Also i have seen the miller passport welders.
Just recently I saw a ad that a guy has a brand new millermatic 212 for sale. He wants $1000 for it. A bit much for me but thought that was a great deal!

Thanks for the information
 
The Hobart Handler line is a great entry level rig. The big difference between Hobart and Miller is the use of plastic in the drive system. Miller is for pros that do it all day. Hobart is good enough for the rest of us. You also want gas welding if you are doing sheetmetal. Thing is, a larger welder is kind of clumsy if you are trying to do fine work, like sheet metal. A smaller rig would give more control for thin metal. Here's a good place for questions that I have found. http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/index.php
 
So, without trying to sound like a total retard. I was looking at the Lincoln 140 at (sigh) Home Depot. It was like $419. Didn't seem like a bad price.
 
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$419 bucks is a real decent price if it comes with the typical stuff like a regulator, extra tips and maybe a spool or two of wire. Most i've see around go for about $500. Not too bad considering the Millermatic 140 will cost ya a cool $700 for the same set up.
 
I hate to be the harbinger of 'bad news/reality', but, welding is an art, it's not just 'picked up'. There is science to it, many disciplines and methods/techniques. I had the great opportunity to go the the US Army Ordnance Center and School for 44B, then, 44E, Metalworker and Machinist respectively. We started off with Oxy/Acetylene in all positions, all materials, and all types of welds, we had to master all these, when we were good enough; usually after about 5 days a week, 10 hrs a day for 2 weeks we could move up to Arc; same methods and procedures and techniques; same type of welds; Butt, Lap, Plug, etc. When we mastered this with all the types of rods; 6010, 6011, 6012(?), 7018, we did some 'playing' with some stainless and some aluminum -- but were not held to standard on those welds -- very difficult to master that! Then, we went to Mig; same o'le same ole, but, we also did Aluminum 1" plate, by this time, we were 3 months into our welding; and about 4 sets of uniforms later (all burned up) we felt like we were making progress! Then, once we 'mastered' Mig, we went into Tig! Stainless, Steel, Aluminum in all positions, methods, etc. Talk about focus, and welding your *** off! When were done, they told us we now know the basics and are competent to weld in the field, but we need to maintain these newly acquired skills as they can fade, well they do fade! I tried to Tig a few yrs ago, I fooked up something wicked!

But, as you learn, you learn to turn the heat up as much as you can, weld as fast as you can, and keep a border-line disaster in check; meaning run hot torches = better penetration etc. So, this needs to go in the column to get as much machine as you can afford, get the best you can for the $$ you have, but never ever get a Harbor Freight POS.

I am scared to think what rank beginners will do to their sheetmetal on their cars, please, people do only what you can do...sheetmetal is not too forgiving. You can cover it with Bondo, and, anyone familiar with my posts knows that you can not hide **** from me when I'm media blasting stuff clean; I see it all.

I will accept pay pal donations for my advice, :monkeydance::monkeydance:, haha!

Good luck in your purchase!
 
I use a Century 125 mig for my sheet metal work.I have a couple and have no problems.
I used a Century 125 when I started my project [borrowed from a friend]. It was a competent welder. The thing I liked was that at half trigger pull, the gas would come on. Then, when I was done pulling wire, the half-trigger would still allow gas to flow for a clean weld. Thing I didnt like...was the constantly hot electrode when you set the gun down!
 
Century,i am pretty sure are built by Lincoln at least they were when i bought mine 25 years ago.1 backhalfed drag car,3 street rods,resto on a 70 nova plus numerous other things and its still works as good as day one.
 
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