What oil ?

[D575]

What oil are you guys running.

 

[MoparLife]

I have always used Brad Penn Oil

 

[scotts74birds]

I run synthetics. But for regular oil, and break-ins, I use Napa. Napa oil IS Valvoline. But Napa filters are WIX! And I am very happy with them.

 

[MarPar]

Valvoline VR-1...20-50. most zinc i've found (ppm)

 

[70rr-brian]

Just plain old valvoline 20w50. I have a solid roller cam though so zinc isn't a big issue for me.

 

[YY1]

I like Valvoline as well.

Lately I've been using the "high mile" syn blend, but they took the word "synthetic" off the label for some reason.

 

[hunt2elk]

I like Brad Penn also. Whatever you choose, make sure it has a high zinc content.

 

[djais1801]

please educate a newbie...does the zinc content go for all of our street engines..or just high compression race motors?

 

[Dennis H]

AmsOil in everything I own. 10-40 in the 440.

 

[70rr-brian]

please educate a newbie...does the zinc content go for all of our street engines..or just high compression race motors?

From Valvolines site:

1. What is motor oil with zinc?
2. The anti-wear additive simply referred to as zinc by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film. Despite being referred to as zinc, this additive actually contains zinc and phosphorus, with phosphorus performing the anti-wear function in the motor oil with zinc.
3. Why is it important to have the zinc/phosphorus levels in motor oil changed?
   With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for motor oil with zinc. The current API standard is SM which replaced the previous SL classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle's emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current motor oil.
4. What is the controversy surrounding the amount of zinc in motor oil?
   Many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in SM motor oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new motor oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible. This has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern motor oil is not adequate to protect older engines.

1. What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue?
2. Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue:
3. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60.
4. Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car motor oils including SynPower -- the only synthetic oil that offers this additive.

1. Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" racing oil?
   Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14 percent of zinc and .13 percent of phosphorus.

 

[62MAX]

For what it's worth,here is an analysis on Brad Penn I had done two years ago,you'll probably not find one any better.Anyone or any manufacturer can say theirs is better,analysis is the only way to be sure.

 

[biginch=bigfun]

I didn't believe all the hype about needing more zinc because we've all been using "regular engine oil for decades...


Then I used my standard oil w/ Joe Gibbs break-in lube on my fresh 440 last spring, long story short: all my engine parts are at the machine shop because of the metal that went through & ruined everything! My # 2 lifters were ground away to the point it looked like they were held to the bench grinding stone!

DO NOT SKIMP ON YOUR OIL! ZINC IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!

 

[62MAX]

I didn't believe all the hype about needing more zinc because we've all been using "regular engine oil for decades...


Then I used my standard oil w/ Joe Gibbs break-in lube on my fresh 440 last spring, long story short: all my engine parts are at the machine shop because of the metal that went through & ruined everything! My # 2 lifters were ground away to the point it looked like they were held to the bench grinding stone!

DO NOT SKIMP ON YOUR OIL! ZINC IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!

What everyone needs to remember,the zinc quantity in regular oil that was adequate for decades has been significaltly reduce due to EPA regulations,it ain't what it used to be.One of the best examples is Shell Rotella.I hear a lot of guys still tout it,have an analysis done,you will be surprised as to what it is now compared to ten years ago,might change your way of thinking.

 

[Cranky]

I didn't believe all the hype about needing more zinc because we've all been using "regular engine oil for decades...


Then I used my standard oil w/ Joe Gibbs break-in lube on my fresh 440 last spring, long story short: all my engine parts are at the machine shop because of the metal that went through & ruined everything! My # 2 lifters were ground away to the point it looked like they were held to the bench grinding stone!

DO NOT SKIMP ON YOUR OIL! ZINC IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!

The JG break in lube didn't have any ZDDP additive? I've seen cams wipe out even the older oils and with the break in additives added. How big was your cam and what was the spring pressures?

What everyone needs to remember,the zinc quantity in regular oil that was adequate for decades has been significaltly reduce due to EPA regulations,it ain't what it used to be.One of the best examples is Shell Rotella.I hear a lot of guys still tout it,have an analysis done,you will be surprised as to what it is now compared to ten years ago,might change your way of thinking.

I'm running the Rotella 15-40 because I still have a stock of the 'good' stuff but today's engines have roller cams and that's the main reason they don't need as much ZDDP in the oil. Roller cams are the way to go these days and then you don't have to worry so much about the ZDDP and just one engine failure with a flat tappet will more than pay for a roller setup....

 

[67 B-body]

Brad Penn oil here also!!!! I had to tear down my new engine too because of a lack of ZDDP in the standard Valvoline 20-50 I first used! I learned my lesson, that's for sure!

 

[Moparsmitty]

Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20-50 in my cars that have flat tappet cams. High ZDDP oils are a must with these cams, even the mild ones. You can probably get away with using regular oil if you are running a roller cam AFTER the break in. Funny how the oils that say NOT STREET LEGAL are better for your engine. Just call me outlaw.

 

[PoppaSmurf]

Valvoline or Castrol straight 40 in the winter and straight 50 in the summer

 

[kb67mopar]

I run synthetics in my engines but I also only have late model engines with roller valve-trains. I currently run Amsoil but have also used Mobil 1 with good results. (in some cases increased fuel economy by 10-15%)

 

[D575]

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I run SWEPCO

http://www.swepcolube.com/products/swepco-306-supreme-formula-engine-oil