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Where the hell is my oil going???

If burning oil it will show up at speed when you take your foot off the throttle because high vacuum sucks the oil into the intake. Maybe have someone follow you and take it out on the road at speed and let off gas pedal and see if that is your problem.

This is true for a leaking intake and valve seals/guides. Rings will usually present under most conditions
 
Pulled two random plugs and found nice, dry plugs.

Pull them all. An intake leak could be two or four paired intake runners.

Are you sure that you filled the oil up initially? Had to ask.
 
My two cents worth.....its possible that the excessive oil consumption is due to worn valve guides...especially the exhaust valve guides. Oil leaking at the the exhaust valve guides WILL NOT show up on the spark plugs as carbon deposits like it would if it were intake valve guides. You would not see the smoke in the exhaust because the oil would be vaporized in the exhaust, not burned. Likely the valve stem seals are worn as well as the guides. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Pull them all. An intake leak could be two or four paired intake runners.

Are you sure that you filled the oil up initially? Had to ask.

Yes on the oil fill. I took out the two plugs that were easiest to access.

No oil swirls in the coolant.

Good thing is I have three sets of rebuildable stock heads to choose from, should it need them.

I had the Coronet parked ***-to-beak with the Imperial. Ran the RPMs up a bit after warming the car up. The condensation on the Imperial bumper off the Coronet will evaporate overnight, and will be able to see/feel oily residue on the Imperial bumper...and go from that point.
 
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Went to the shop a few minutes ago. Last night's condensation is long gone, of course, but the oil residue is quite evident on the Imperial bumper off the Coronet.

Sounds like new guides and seals are in order.
 
Valve guide seal's replacement has solved many of my problem's with oil use in the past for me. Those are in a very hot environment. They are subject to thousands of rev's. when motor is running. They get hard and crack. Lose their ability to seal properly. Do you run an ZDP additive in your oil. It was cheap enough to replace them rather than doing a valve guide replacement. But can't rule that out either. New PCV valve first. Then try the valve seal's.
 
When I first got my 63,000 mile Charger, it would smoke with WOT at speeds over 100mph. I have read that Mopar big blocks fill the valve covers with oil at sustained, high rpm's.
 
Daily drivers that didnt get regular oil changes and proper maintenence were known for sludging up the valve covers, which would of course cause drainback issues when you decide to thrash the thing at high speeds..... This was not exclusive to Mopars by any means... I've heard of people throwing kerosene in them then idle till warm to thin the oil before draining the crap out.... I would not be a bit surprised if that trick did more harm than good, or maybe sent all the sludge straight to the oil pickup in the bottom of the pan lol.
 
Daily drivers that didnt get regular oil changes and proper maintenence were known for sludging up the valve covers, which would of course cause drainback issues when you decide to thrash the thing at high speeds..... This was not exclusive to Mopars by any means... I've heard of people throwing kerosene in them then idle till warm to thin the oil before draining the crap out.... I would not be a bit surprised if that trick did more harm than good, or maybe sent all the sludge straight to the oil pickup in the bottom of the pan lol.

Years ago, I had a friend, whose father was corporate pilot for PPG. He was articulate and meticulous in the maintenance of the company's plane a Gulf Stream I (Turbo prop)and later Gulf Stream II (Jet). However, his own car, a Buick Invicta with a 401 cubic inch nail head engine, was neglected.....never changed the oil....his reasoning: "oil never wears out...it just gets dirty"....his answer: every 5000 miles, change the filter and add a quart. When the engine started making tapping noises (collapsed valve lifters), we tried to find the bad lifter. Removing the valve covers, was like un-moulding a Jello salad. Rocker arms, shafts and valve springs were totally imersed in black sludge and not visable, even when the engjne was running.....it's a wonder the engine did not self destruct. Morale of the story: change oil at specifed intervals..... Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
 
In 65 I bought a 58 Fury with the 350 Golden Commando engine, I just love to say Golden Commando engine, with 72,000 miles and a body that was in excellent shape. By the way that had 2 4bbls on it. When I got it It smoked a little bit, just to give you an idea it might burn some oil. I changed oil to Quaker State and added a can of STP. Every weekend I put about 400 miles commuting from Dover Del. to NYC. About 240 miles round trip up the NJ tnpk and on rte. 13 in Del. about 100 miles. After several trips the car no longer smoked and I advanced the timing and it ran great. I put another 75,000 miles on it with that commute and retired it at that time and ordered a 68 Road Runner Hardtop, 383 and 4speed. Did the STP help? or the change to Quaker State which I believe it was called super blend and was gold in color. Anything is worth a try.
 
Daily drivers that didnt get regular oil changes and proper maintenence were known for sludging up the valve covers, which would of course cause drainback issues when you decide to thrash the thing at high speeds..... This was not exclusive to Mopars by any means... I've heard of people throwing kerosene in them then idle till warm to thin the oil before draining the crap out.... I would not be a bit surprised if that trick did more harm than good, or maybe sent all the sludge straight to the oil pickup in the bottom of the pan lol.

One thing on mine is that the valve covers underneath are as clean as when the day it was overhauled.
 
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