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Who has a fast street car?

66 Satellite, All steel except hood, lots of sound deadener, Steel roll bar, Stock Seats and Center Console, Wipers, Heater Box, ETC.. 3750lbs without me, 4010 with. Pump gas, Stock Stroke 440, through the mufflers, 4:30's w/gear Venders, 4500 stall, I put nearly 2000 miles on it last year, Runs 167 degrees no matter what, Been 10.80's @ 124. Drive it whenever weather permits.

This is my version of a real street car and yes there may be an induction solution plate system in the near future....
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Wow, that is gorgeous!
 
Yes, Nitrous Oxide systems, for example, really have no effect on the engine or driveability, until the system is in use. Granted, if you prep an engine for nitrous, you want pistons made of materials that can withstand the extra pressure and heat, and the ring gaps are wider, and the rest of the engine has to support the forces exerted on it by the "juice". But none of that affects the ride like the direction I'm going in, which is all of the typical "hot rodding" stuff. There is at least one aspect I'm building in to my stroker motor that will allow for less wear and tear and stress on my valvetrain, and that is larger than "usual" displacement. Since the block doesn't have to be clearanced for a 4.50 stroke or shorter, and the aluminum block is available in a 4.49 bore with .070 left to go, I am leaning towards a 4.25 stroke or 541 total displacement. I don't want to go as big as possible because of my intake options, but I am already going to be at the top end or beyond my power goals and what the rest of my car can handle.
So in its own way, it will be a formidable "street" car, but on the "easy" end of what the block can handle, which brings peace of mind and hopefully longevity and minimal maintenance.
I would go to the 4.5 stroke for the big arm! Good rods are a must. Remind me what rockers your have:rolleyes:
 
Id like to add -

One of my pals has an S-10 pickup with a twin hair dryer setup on a SB shitty, AFR heads, steel crank, Dart block, all the good stuff - ETC. it is roughly 1000 lbs lighter than your plucked chicken. It runs 8.40's . . . and he thinks he's really doin' something!
There's WAY more power left. Just don't want to pull our special cast crank/stock block tools (floor dry, dust pan, and a broom). We barely turn it to 6000.
Doug
 
Well not sure if I should even bother . But I drive a srt8 superbee daily 425hp plus what little the tuner gets me.
I thought that was good.
My brother in law drives a Chevy mustang .
84 notch with a ls1 motor setup he runs 9.80 ish I think a little faster but not bad for what it is . So if you can live with the gay ness if driving a Chevy mustang it's ok.
I put a Prius badge on the back !
 
Also to hide the roll cage in the back window I took duck tape and taped over them looking at it looks like it's got broken glass instead of roll bars
 
I would go to the 4.5 stroke for the big arm! Good rods are a must.
Well, I'm trying to keep piston speed down. Also 700 ft lbs is my appx self imposed "limit" because of the transmission. I believe that if I could jump in with the F&B direct port injection 3x2 throttle plate EFI system, that I have seen flow rated at 1,900 CFM, and up to 2,400 is available, in the 3x2 configuration, well maybe I would go bigger, but "the forum" has me worried about breaking driveline parts, and I am NOT giving up my 5 speed Passon Performance a855.
If I ever get the bug to make it mostly a track car, which would be the exact opposite of what I plan, well I'd still want to row the gears, so I'd have to look at a Jerico transmission, and any other "weak links".
I don't see that happening.
Remember, the reasons for the aluminum aftermarket block is mainly for peace of mind at the upper end of what a stock block can handle. That is major, and something I won't have to worry about. Along with that, there's the added benefits of 140 pounds less up front, and the WOW factor when it's hoods UP.
Rocker arms will be whatever gives me the best geometry and strength, and the least maintenance necessary.
 
Another possibility if I want to jump up in power, IF my carbs do a really good job, is to do a plate nitrous system. 150 HP shot should be easy, and I would have a number of safety features built in, along with my being vigilant to not make nitrous related mistakes.
 
I hardly need 2000CFM so I think you have enough there.You have to buy a crank so you may as well just go the xtra stroke:rolleyes:
 
Well, I'm trying to keep piston speed down. .

Piston speed isnt going to be any issue. Yours won't see rpm often enough to worry. Even if it was strictly a race car. Decent rods and crank (Molnar) in mine 7000-7200 rpm every pass. It makes over 900hp. Plus if you go with a 7.100 rod the bob weight gets pretty light. Mine is 2222 grams.
Doug
 
The last 10 years has taught me that unless I run coke across the border I ill not have the money it takes to compete in the fast car game. I have had to go with style instead.
Point? My bud has a 99 Formula. Twin turbo LS power. Tagged, insured, drive it anywhere. 7.40@191. My bud Brett has an 11 Mustang 5.0, twin turbo, driove it anywhere, 7.60@179.

My 408 LS powered GTO? 11.30@121 on motor. My 70 Chevelle? 10.80@132. Neither rate in todays psychotic experiments in speed.

So I'll just do my little 6 inch wide tire stripes due to hellacious burnouts my GTX makes. Can't see the GTO's 408, the Chevelles 496, or my Hemi making 2000 hp any time soon.
 
66 Satellite, All steel except hood, lots of sound deadener, Steel roll bar, Stock Seats and Center Console, Wipers, Heater Box, ETC.. 3750lbs without me, 4010 with. Pump gas, Stock Stroke 440, through the mufflers, 4:30's w/gear Venders, 4500 stall, I put nearly 2000 miles on it last year, Runs 167 degrees no matter what, Been 10.80's @ 124. Drive it whenever weather permits.

This is my version of a real street car and yes there may be an induction solution plate system in the near future....
View attachment 901811View attachment 901812View attachment 901813View attachment 901814

what’s the engine combo?
 
66 Satellite, All steel except hood, lots of sound deadener, Steel roll bar, Stock Seats and Center Console, Wipers, Heater Box, ETC.. 3750lbs without me, 4010 with. Pump gas, Stock Stroke 440, through the mufflers, 4:30's w/gear Venders, 4500 stall, I put nearly 2000 miles on it last year, Runs 167 degrees no matter what, Been 10.80's @ 124. Drive it whenever weather permits.

This is my version of a real street car and yes there may be an induction solution plate system in the near future....
View attachment 901811View attachment 901812View attachment 901813View attachment 901814


Very nice great running combo. I agree as your car is what I also consider a true street car and mine is just like it with stock interior and seats and all stock body. And I drive mine all summer from April to November. I use a mild solid flat tappet that's been in my car for 9 years now with the same valve springs still in it and it still runs the same. And mine weighs about the same as yours just over 3700 lbs without my 180 in her. Ron
 
The last 10 years has taught me that unless I run coke across the border I ill not have the money it takes to compete in the fast car game. I have had to go with style instead.
Point? My bud has a 99 Formula. Twin turbo LS power. Tagged, insured, drive it anywhere. 7.40@191. My bud Brett has an 11 Mustang 5.0, twin turbo, driove it anywhere, 7.60@179.

My 408 LS powered GTO? 11.30@121 on motor. My 70 Chevelle? 10.80@132. Neither rate in todays psychotic experiments in speed.

So I'll just do my little 6 inch wide tire stripes due to hellacious burnouts my GTX makes. Can't see the GTO's 408, the Chevelles 496, or my Hemi making 2000 hp any time soon.


Hey your cars run great for the combo's. There is no way you can compete a N/A car against a power adder car and call it fair. Myself I don't want a power adder because for one thing no one used them in the 60's and 70's on their street/strip cars in my area and I don't want to chance pushing it to much and blowing my eng. I would think any twin turbo car can run 8's or 7's with all the power they add. I love Nostalgia Super Stock and race with our local NSS group when I go to the track as its the cars I love. All N/A 60's and early 70's muscle cars. I could care less about all the power adder cars and I guess that's because I love them the way I grew up with them which is just N/A cars. But that said I don't blame anyone for using a power adder because if you want to compete with the real fast cars of today you have to run a power adder or you don't stand a chance. Its just not my thing. Ron
 
The last 10 years has taught me that unless I run coke across the border I ill not have the money it takes to compete in the fast car game. I have had to go with style instead.
Point? My bud has a 99 Formula. Twin turbo LS power. Tagged, insured, drive it anywhere. 7.40@191. My bud Brett has an 11 Mustang 5.0, twin turbo, driove it anywhere, 7.60@179.

My 408 LS powered GTO? 11.30@121 on motor. My 70 Chevelle? 10.80@132. Neither rate in todays psychotic experiments in speed.

So I'll just do my little 6 inch wide tire stripes due to hellacious burnouts my GTX makes. Can't see the GTO's 408, the Chevelles 496, or my Hemi making 2000 hp any time soon.
A power adder could put either of them GMz in the 9's:steering:
 
I was watching an episode of turbo Johns you tube channel. One of his buddy's was running a carbed small block 302 fox body. Decent motor, nothing special, other than the nitrous kit. With a soft 60 ft,(nitrous gears) it ran mid sevens in the eighth, on the motor. On a 250 shot (he says) it went 5.90s. I was shocked, I expected about a half to three quarters of a second. In a quarter, that would be from 11.70s to low nines!
No wonder people like power adders.


Now where did I put that nitrous setup I had?
 
There is such a wide variety of the perception on the answer of FAST.Then there are guys that have F.A.S.T cars:lol:
I do find it quite entertaining to see their factory APPEARING cars on these skinny little bias tires.These guys think outside the box and the appearance just might not be what they appear.:poke::nutkick:

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what’s the engine combo?

Stock 67 Block .30 over
11.5:1
BRC Main girdle w/aluminum Caps
Wiseco Pistons
Factory 64 Max Wedge Rods .990 pins & spiro locs
Comp Solid Roller .262/.262 Dur .645/.645 Lift
Comp roller lifters w/bushings not bearings
Ported 440-1 Heads Machined to 60cc chambers
T&D Rockers 1.6 ratio
440-2 Intake
F.A.S.T XFI Sportsman Fuel Injection
Meziere water pump
Moroso Vac Pump
TTI Exhaust 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 stepped primaries

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I don't have a fast anything. Can I still come out and play ?:luvplace:
 
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