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Winter Project - ‘69 GTX Engine Compartment Rehab

Black_Sheep

Super Commando
FBBO Gold Member
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Now that the snow is here, it’s time to tackle some projects on the GTX. I’ve been meaning to address some minor leaks and re-detail the engine compartment for a couple years, now I’m finally getting around to it. The plan is to drop the engine and trans out the bottom, fix a couple oil leaks and give it a repaint. While it’s out the headers will get ceramic coated and the pulleys, cooling fan, brackets, K frame, etc… will get powder coated.

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I made good progress on the top side today, removing parts that will go to powder coat as well as the battery and battery tray, auxiliary trans cooler, front splash pan and engine wiring harness.

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Everything came apart easily so I used the rest of the afternoon to put a seal kit in the power steering pump and strip the housing for paint.

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Tomorrow I’ll get it up on jack stands and get started on the bottom side…
 
That's one thing nice about winter, you can get a few projects done cause you sure ain't driving it! 440'
 
Been at it for a couple hours and got the PS pump assembled then painted it semi gloss black. I hope it loses some the shine as it dries.
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Welcome aboard!! I'd love an opportunity to quote your work.
Here’s some of the parts I want done, along with the K Frame, engine mounting brackets and trans crossmember. Shipping charges would probably be a deal breaker though, the local guy treats me pretty good. Shoot me a quote in a DM and I’d be happy to look at it.

ETA: Air Grabber baseplate too…

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The goal here is not so much a stock resto. But as long as I’m at, this would be a good time to get rid of the boogered up and mismatched fasteners. I got a bunch of hardware kits at the Nats and through mail order. I also have repro coolant hoses, t-stat, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor and a reproduction engine wiring harness. I already added a tach wire and extended the coil+ wire, they connect to a 6AL mounted on the core support. I'd like to send the radiator to Glen-Ray but the thought of shipping a really nice 22" radiator with all of the right numbers kind of scares me.


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The suspension and steering have to come apart to powder coat the K frame. When it goes back together there’s a few new parts that should further enhance the driving experience. Any steering or suspension components that look questionable will be replaced.
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QA1 tubular upper control arms and steel tie rod sleeves
Hotchkiss adjustable strut rods
 
On Monday I dropped the alternator off at a rebuilder that a friend recommended. He showed me another Mopar alternator that was just finished, it looked better than new.

Garage goals for the weekend:
Drain engine and trans
Remove driveshaft
Remove trans cooler lines (#6 braided SS)
Disconnect shift linkage, speedo cable and throttle cable
Disconnect steering coupler
Remove torsion bars
Disconnect headers from H-pipe
Possibly drop the right side header

If there any time left I'll start pulling apart the wheel ends
 
On Monday I dropped the alternator off at a rebuilder that a friend recommended. He showed me another Mopar alternator that was just finished, it looked better than new.

Garage goals for the weekend:
Drain engine and trans
Remove driveshaft
Remove trans cooler lines (#6 braided SS)
Disconnect shift linkage, speedo cable and throttle cable
Disconnect steering coupler
Remove torsion bars
Disconnect headers from H-pipe
Possibly drop the right side header

If there any time left I'll start pulling apart the wheel ends

Damn near done, I still have the shift linkage to disconnect. Removing the R header should be easier with t-bar out of the way. That can wait until tomorrow, I’m tired of rolling around on the garage floor.

To get the t-bars out I took the nuts off the LCA pivot bolts and strut rods then pried between the k member and LCA until the t-bars popped out of the t-bar crossmember. It worked like a charm…
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The goal here is not so much a stock resto. But as long as I’m at, this would be a good time to get rid of the boogered up and mismatched fasteners. I got a bunch of hardware kits at the Nats and through mail order. I also have repro coolant hoses, t-stat, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor and a reproduction engine wiring harness. I already added a tach wire and extended the coil+ wire, they connect to a 6AL mounted on the core support. I'd like to send the radiator to Glen-Ray but the thought of shipping a really nice 22" radiator with all of the right numbers kind of scares me.


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I have shipped two 26" radiators to Glen-Ray with no issues. Bob does top notch work and ships them very well packaged. I shipped them to him in a TV box with plenty of foam board for protection. You will be impressed with his work.
 
Getting the right header out wasn’t too bad. With everything on my list done, it was time to move on to the wheel ends. The lower control arm bushings look pretty bad for the miles that are on them, so they’ll get replaced. Should I go with poly or rubber this time? The QA1uppers have poly bushings. The sway bar link bushings are looking rough too, poly or rubber for those?

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I’m pretty much at a standstill until my buddy drops the Max Wedge into his car, then I’ll be able to use his hoist and engine stand. Until then there’s lots of parts to clean and paint. Is a factory ‘69 GTX driveshaft natural or painted?

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Getting the right header out wasn’t too bad. With everything on my list done, it was time to move on to the wheel ends. The lower control arm bushings look pretty bad for the miles that are on them, so they’ll get replaced. Should I go with poly or rubber this time? The QA1uppers have poly bushings. The sway bar link bushings are looking rough too, poly or rubber for those?

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I rebuilt the savoy's front end 20 years ago with PST rubbers. When I got it back, all rubbers were shot. I did it again with rubber this time as I know that it will not get another rebuild out of me. The poly squeaks was the only downside to me. Great job on your car as always!

Chuck (snook)
 
Bob at Glen Ray does excellent work, I think he has done 5 radiators for me now. We are only 100 miles apart, so I go to him or he drops them off to me if he is coming through my area. He is very **** about what goes out the door, so I have to imagine it would get packed very well. Pony up for extra insurance just in case, but I wouldn't worry a bit. He sends them all over the place.
 
Here’s some of the parts I want done, along with the K Frame, engine mounting brackets and trans crossmember. Shipping charges would probably be a deal breaker though, the local guy treats me pretty good. Shoot me a quote in a DM and I’d be happy to look at it.

ETA: Air Grabber baseplate too…

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I'd need an idea on colors -- presuming factory / semi gloss black -- and close ups of any dings/defects to give you an accurate estimate. (I don't merely blast and shoot as is; most pieces need at least some metal work to earn a right to leave my bench.)
That batch pictured is likely in the 7-10 hour range (most of which will be blasting) but it's more of a guess. The k-member and supports would probably double it, especially if the stuff is filthy.
It's not my car but, not one to mince words, I wouldn't be inclined to choose a glossy one for the radiator cover. It will show every defect and be right in your face.
Feel free to call if you want to talk or go over details. The FAQ on my website is the best place to start if you're interested.
Upgrading to a FBBO Gold Membership will knock 10% off the labor too.
Thanks! I look forward to working with you!
 
I rebuilt the savoy's front end 20 years ago with PST rubbers. When I got it back, all rubbers were shot. I did it again with rubber this time as I know that it will not get another rebuild out of me. The poly squeaks was the only downside to me. Great job on your car as always!

Chuck (snook)

I ordered a poly LCA bushing kit last night, along with poly sway bar links. I started driving the GTX in ‘01, due to long Minnesota winters and driving my ‘58 it doesn’t have a lot of miles on it, maybe 20K. The drivers side LCA bushing was toasted, maybe I did something wrong when I put the front end together. All the poly stuff has grease fittings so I’m not too concerned about squeaking.

In another 20 years, it will be someone else’s problem…
 
I went to my buddy Warren’s tonight to help drop the Max Wedge in his ‘63 Sport Fury only to discover that it had the wrong oil pan. Now it’s going to be another week or two before I can borrow his engine hoist.

Anyway, I got home and started screwing around in the garage. I decided to clean up the spring for the throttle pressure linkage and give it a shot of paint. Progress is progress, no matter how small. Tomorrow when it’s dry I’ll steal my wife’s fingernail polish and add the sloppy red stripe.

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Original color, kind of a school bus yellow.

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I also looked over the parts that showed up today. I plan to use the original hardware with the poly pieces from the sway bar link kit. The poly sway bar bracket bushings are hard AF, getting them over the ends of the bar and into the brackets is going to be interesting...

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I also have heard that poly’s squeak really bad but the poly-graphite’s don’t.
 
I did a refresh on the engine bay in the Charger R/T convertible when I swapped out engines a few years ago. I repainted the engine bay with base clear,instead of the single stage paint I had done it in originally.

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I did a refresh on the engine bay in the Charger R/T convertible when I swapped out engines a few years ago. I repainted the engine bay with base clear,instead of the single stage paint I had done it in originally.

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I did the engine bay and undercarriage of he GTX in PPG Imron single stage, it’s held up really well. I’m hoping it will clean up nicely once I get the engine out.
 
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