Won't start

[THE STIG]

I can't get the 440 in my Charger to start, I've replaced the battery, battery cables, plugs, plug wires, cap, ignition coil and starter relay. It'll turn over all day long but the engine won't fire. Next I'm going to pull the plugs and and see if the cumbustion chamber is flooded beyond that I'm stumped, any suggestions?

 

[70rr-brian]

Assuming it is getting fuel pull the coil wire off and see if it is getting spark for starters. Hold the coil wire about 1/4" from metal and watch for spark. Just dont use the carb or anything real close obviously.

 

[THE STIG]

Assuming it is getting fuel pull the coil wire off and see if it is getting spark for starters. Hold the coil wire about 1/4" from metal and watch for spark. Just dont use the carb or anything real close obviously.

Already did that and I am getting spark from the coil.

 

[dave5237]

Hello. This may sound stupid but are you getting gas squirting from the jets in the carb when you pump the gas ( not trying to start it by key just pumping the pedal ). you should smell lots of gas if your cranking that much. if not you may have to break the line before the carb and see. like brian said make sure your getting fuel.

 

[john.thompson068]

What about the timing? Reinstall the distributor from scratch. Take it out completely, find top dead center, set the motor to zero timing, then turn the distributor about 3/16 of a turn to give it approximately 15* timing. Follow the "installing the distributor" instructions posted in the tech section of the www.4secondsflat.com if you are unfamiliar with this procedure. That's how I learned to do it, and it is very easy.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Start with the basics,you said it sqirted from the accelerator pump so next make sure there is spark from the coil to the ditributor,then fron the cap to the glug wires.Also pull the flugs and make sre ther are dry and not gas fouled.

 

[THE STIG]

What about the timing? Reinstall the distributor from scratch. Take it out completely, find top dead center, set the motor to zero timing, then turn the distributor about 3/16 of a turn to give it approximately 15* timing. Follow the "installing the distributor" instructions posted in the tech section of the www.4secondsflat.com if you are unfamiliar with this procedure. That's how I learned to do it, and it is very easy.

Did that when I put the new cap on and then for good measure I did it again

Start with the basics,you said it sqirted from the accelerator pump so next make sure there is spark from the coil to the ditributor,then fron the cap to the glug wires.Also pull the flugs and make sre ther are dry and not gas fouled.

I just got done pulling the plugs they smell a bit of gas but are bone dry, then I checked the spark from the coil and the cap both are good. And I know it's getting gas because when I pump the pedal I can smell gas. I'm losing patience here, anybody want to buy a 70 Charger?

 

[70rr-brian]

So when you check the spark from the coil wire or the plug wire what color is the spark? Also, I assume the gap on the plugs is set correctly? If those are all good then for $hits and grins wiggle the bulkhead connections at the firewall.

 

[HawkRod]

Did that when I put the new cap on and then for good measure I did it again

I would bet the issue is with your distributor. To start an engine, you need spark, fuel and compression AT THE PROPER TIME. You have checked both spark and fuel (and compression shouldn't be an issue here).

Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that you are firing on the COMPRESSION STROKE??? When you install the distributor it must be at TDC of the number 1 cylinder ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. If you did it the opposite, it obviously won't run.

May seem stupid, but I've been there, done that! :angry1:

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You have spark,is it a stromg spark??you have fuel,the only other thing is timimng.Move that distributor around,you shold get a fart out the pipes,to retarded,puff back or fire out the carb,too advanved:naka:

 

[Ron 73]

I had this same problem last winter early spring with my car, not the same engine but it doesn't matter, ill tell you what i did and found, I had fuel, spark, compression. I started thinking it was timing that jumped, it wasn't, Then thought the carb was bad it was but, not the problem, I had everything i needed for an engine to start and it wouldn't. New starter, solenoid, Accel coil, cleaned all connections, new wires, plugs, cap, BUT when i put a new points module in and hit the key, boom, instantly sitting there idling, I also put a new relucktor in. Now i had spark, a nice blue spark and this is what happened, been running ever since. Seems you have tried everything, IF you haven't tried these, give it a shot. Mine to wouldn't pop, try, back fire nothing just like there was no spark OR fuel. Now before someone says the points module and or relucktors don't go out, this did happen so i know better or it was a very scary "why/how/ what was really wrong situation". regular points distributors use relucktors to, and they CAN go bad. If you change the relucktor which i think you should, take note how it goes in there (on Distributor), they are easy to put in backwards, one way is for SB the opposite for BB... If you have changed it and it was in wrong, the inside of your cap may show you because it would have burn marks in-between the contacts its supposed to spark on, you may want to check that. Hope this helps, Good luck.

 

[64Belvedere]

I am having a similiar issue. Turns out that the coil wire had great blue spark until you plugged it into the distributor cap then there was absolutely nothing out ot the plug wires. Check all engine and box grounds.

 

[THE STIG]

I had this same problem last winter early spring with my car, not the same engine but it doesn't matter, ill tell you what i did and found, I had fuel, spark, compression. I started thinking it was timing that jumped, it wasn't, Then thought the carb was bad it was but, not the problem, I had everything i needed for an engine to start and it wouldn't. New starter, solenoid, Accel coil, cleaned all connections, new wires, plugs, cap, BUT when i put a new points module in and hit the key, boom, instantly sitting there idling, I also put a new relucktor in. Now i had spark, a nice blue spark and this is what happened, been running ever since. Seems you have tried everything, IF you haven't tried these, give it a shot. Mine to wouldn't pop, try, back fire nothing just like there was no spark OR fuel. Now before someone says the points module and or relucktors don't go out, this did happen so i know better or it was a very scary "why/how/ what was really wrong situation". regular points distributors use relucktors to, and they CAN go bad. If you change the relucktor which i think you should, take note how it goes in there (on Distributor), they are easy to put in backwards, one way is for SB the opposite for BB... If you have changed it and it was in wrong, the inside of your cap may show you because it would have burn marks in-between the contacts its supposed to spark on, you may want to check that. Hope this helps, Good luck.

I should probably mention my engine is a 75 and donen't have points. Does that make a difference?

 

[Ron 73]

Well mine (engine) is a 75 if the block is the same as the heads, this is the distributor in mine,

Now, i had the same symptoms as you have now and as i said, i did all of what you have done plus a couple things, Here is what i replaced

The gear looking device ( Just in case you don't know!) is the reluctor, the other the pick up module or coil. This is what solved my problem, some say these do not go bad, i know they do ive read about them when i had my problems. If your engine has these, i would change them and try it. If im wrong so be it, it wont be the first time or last, I seen this and thought id try to help you IF i could. You didn't post anything as what your running outside of a 440, you didn't say if its been sitting for awhile so i thought id give it a shot and hope it helped. im not trying to be funny here just trying to get you going, It sounds as you've tried about everything else as i did myself and if someone can give you some ideas that will work, good deal. i myself fought the idea that this would help but i finally had to, i was out of options and this worked. I do apologize for calling it a points module, i don't know why i keep doing that, if you have these things id change them, the reluctor is held in place by a small pin, if you do this be careful taking out and putting in there easy to drop someplace you don't want it! right off i don't remember the gauge to set it but im sure someone here does, also use plastic feeler gauges or brass because of the magnetic field in them, this is what the reluctor generates for the module to work properly.. small blocks have the pin close to the arrow....

big blocks have the pin away from the arrow..


Maybe this wont help you, maybe it will, i know i changed them both and problem solved, Good luck.

 

[THE STIG]

I guess I'll try that next it can't hurt. Can I walk in to my local Auto Zone and pick those up?

 

[Ron 73]

Yes you should be able to Auto Zone had to order mine but if you have to order it you may want to try Summit or maybe Jegs... This to me seemed strange but after reading and it fixed the problem i believe now it can happen, i hope it solves your problem, seems like you have ruled out about everything there is. I have to leave but have you had the distributor out? Has anything been done to it that would have changed something, how old and long has it been sitting? so many things can do this but seems like you've covered everything but this.

 

[THE STIG]

Yes you should be able to Auto Zone had to order mine but if you have to order it you may want to try Summit or maybe Jegs... This to me seemed strange but after reading and it fixed the problem i believe now it can happen, i hope it solves your problem, seems like you have ruled out about everything there is. I have to leave but have you had the distributor out? Has anything been done to it that would have changed something, how old and long has it been sitting? so many things can do this but seems like you've covered everything but this.

When I first got the car in 09 it was running real rough so my buddy came over and we tried to tweak the the timing, he turned the cap a little and then he told me to pull the carb and have it rebuilt so I did, and after all that it was still running but not still not well, so I figured it change out the plugs and wires. Then I started having issues with the battery not holding a charge so I then took out the battery and AZ tested it and it was bad so new battery and cables as the old ones were smoking a bit. After all that it would turn but no start so I got a new cap and coil and that's where I am now. Just curious but what about a whole new distributor I happened to find this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330599214036&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

[wlo48]

Been awhile since I posted and even longer since I worked on a 440, but, I have read nothing about checking to see if the distributor is turning. Pull the cap, have a friend turn the key and see if the rotor is going around. It isn't, pull the distributor and see if the end tab has sheared off. You have already done this one, but with the friend still there, pull the air cleaner off, open the choke all the way, and have your friend pump the "go" pedal. Watch for the strong squirts of gas inside the carburetor. If you have gas there, you have gas to the motor. Everyone has said check the timing, checking it again. When you done there, check your spark plugs wires in the cap, insure that you have number one where it should be, the wiring order is correct and direction of rotation of the plug wires are correct. Even plugged in wrong though you should get a backfire or backfire through the carburetor. I don't like starting a car without the air cleaner on so when ever possible try to have the air cleaner on just in case of the backfire and or fire. with a voltmeter, check the ignition resistor on the firewall. With ignition on you should have about 9 volts at the positive terminal on the coil. In the start position you should have 12 volts at the positive terminal. I have seen the resistor burn and not have the correct voltage in the start position while cranking. And after all this, I am assuming the engine is turning even if it is not starting.

 

[Ron 73]

I cant comment on the E bay distributor, im sure someone who used MSD would be better to tell you the advantages of it. I would try what wlo48 said and see what you find then the distributor is up to you. Putting a new module and reluctor in isint a big deal but maybe a last resort if you cant find the problem, if you put it in just mark your cap so you know approx where it was and take note which way the shaft in the distributor is when you take the reluctor off so you get it on right. If someone else has changed it and a problem started maybe they put it in wrong, if its in wrong your cap would show uneven burn marks between the contacts underneath the cap, you may want to check that to but seems you would have known before this. Do a search on the MSD i don't think the price is bad for it at all id look up some info on it before deciding to buy it,

 

[THE STIG]

Well I pulled the cap and the rotor spins and the carb is getting gas, and now the battery issues are coming back. This is getting really really old.