Need some help with my 67 Coronet...

[Paul Boucher]

I know these are probably complete noob questions, but what is the name of the metal plate that covers this suspension access area in the engine compartment? Mine are missing on both sides and I need to know what's the name of what I need to look for. And can anyone provide the measurements for the pantastar location? Mine was covered by the original owner when he did the one time exterior paint job about 15 years ago. I will be adhering mine and I want to get the spacing right. Thanks in advance for the help guys!

 

[MOPOWER871]

just put a set on my 67 GTXwww.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/mi1103

 

[Paul Boucher]

just put a set on my 67 GTXwww.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/mi1103

Splash sheilds! Awesome! Thanks a bunch mopower871!

 

[MOPOWER871]

PAUL YEAR ONE HAS THEM ,MADE OF RUBBER INNER FENDER SEALS

 

[Paul Boucher]

PAUL YEAR ONE HAS THEM ,MADE OF RUBBER INNER FENDER SEALS

Ok so they are rubber. Interesting, for some reason I assumed they were metal. I guess I get the *** for assuming?

 

[Fran Blacker]

PAUL YEAR ONE HAS THEM ,MADE OF RUBBER INNER FENDER SEALS

These go behind shock towers. The ones he's looking for are metal and go in front of shock tower. Look in for sale ads I think several guys are parting out Belvedere's. Don't forget to get the screws that go with them. Access shields ?
to cam adjusters?

 

[69bfan]

The front ones as pictured that you are missing are indeed metal and are available as reproductions. There are several manufactures of them and we stock the AMD pieces. Price for these two pieces will vary from approximately $30 to $35. The masticated rubber ones are located behind the shock tower and are available from multiple vendors. Some vendors use a rubber that has a slick appearance over the more correct rougher appearing masticated rubber where the string fiber is visible. These seals will cost you from $16 to $22 depending upon the chosen vendor.

 

[Brandy]

Not sure if they remained in the same spot from 1963 on up but here's the '63 location explained...
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/pentastar-fender-location.html

 

[Paul Boucher]

Not sure if they remained in the same spot from 1963 on up but here's the '63 location explained...
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/pentastar-fender-location.html

From what I can tell, this should be the right spacing, but for my 67 Dodge R/T would I use the Chrysler or Plymouth spacing?

 

[Paul Boucher]

The front ones as pictured that you are missing are indeed metal and are available as reproductions. There are several manufactures of them and we stock the AMD pieces. Price for these two pieces will vary from approximately $30 to $35. The masticated rubber ones are located behind the shock tower and are available from multiple vendors. Some vendors use a rubber that has a slick appearance over the more correct rougher appearing masticated rubber where the string fiber is visible. These seals will cost you from $16 to $22 depending upon the chosen vendor.

Thanks for the clarification. I was able to find them and order a set. Thanks!

 

[Brandy]

From what I can tell, this should be the right spacing, but for my 67 Dodge R/T would I use the Chrysler or Plymouth spacing?

I was not aware that they were different. From what I have read it seems every car has a slightly different placement from the factory. If you are looking for exact factory placement for authentic looks then maybe someone else can chime in here, if not then I would place it in the general neighborhood and call it good. This is what I plan to do. I still have the two holes in my factory fender from this survivor car and they are not exactly in the spot either.

 

[Paul Boucher]

Thanks guys! Went with the Plymouth dims. Looks good!

 

[Brandy]

Looks ligit to me...

 

[Ranger16]

Did you drill the fender or use double sided 3M Molding Tape?

 

[Paul Boucher]

Well...Instead of glueing it I figured I'd give it a shot and I drilled the holes using the guide, but accidentally drilled the top hole as 1/16 instead of 1/8, and when I went to pop the Pentastar out the center tab snapped. As I didn't want to buy another one I drilled the top hole to 1/8, used that as a guide, and used the 3m medallion glue I had the adhear the main part. Lesson learned. This one turned out good and has a good seal, so unless it falls off I probably won't buy another one...but if I do at least the holes are there and correct.