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Can of rusty worms

threewood said:
Those wheels look sharp! I bet you cannot wait to get it out.

On the wheel studs I found that the 610-090 work as great replacements, used them on my 62 when swapping out the swaged drums. They are listed for Jeep.
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You know I saw this posted elsewhere while trying to figure out what studs to order, but I thought it was for the rear for some reason. I ended up ordering the Dorman recommended studs for a 64 but the shoulder is too tall. Oh well, water under the bridge now!
 
Moparstyle said:
And it has begun lol first its one tiny spot before you know it its off to the blasters good luck with your project
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Thanks. It was a long couple of years just to get it back on the road. Lots to do and spend to spruce it up and improve things like braking and suspension. I wanted to enjoy it while improving things but I had to tackle the major work to start with a decent baseline. It's been on the road since August and fun to drive!
 
JimKueneman said:
Oh man that would be great...... Some of the Door Slammers club members are going to that. I have been traveling a lot for work lately and want to stay close to home this weekend. Have fun.
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Well showed up for the car show wanted 10.00 to did that then got hit with a 40.00 entrance fee. I was pretty pissed i didn't go in don't think i missed anything the mopar show had more cars then this one. I guess what pissed me off was it said 20.00 to get in on the cruising az sight then was told if i would have bought online the price was cheaper but couldn't find it in the fine print if you know what I'm saying. Alot of people were turning away one guy told them he only pays 20.00 for good guys and this is not even the 1/3 the size other people started clapping it was not a good thing.
 
bearman said:
Well showed up for the car show wanted 10.00 to did that then got hit with a 40.00 entrance fee. I was pretty pissed i didn't go in don't think i missed anything the mopar show had more cars then this one. I guess what pissed me off was it said 20.00 to get in on the cruising az sight then was told if i would have bought online the price was cheaper but couldn't find it in the fine print if you know what I'm saying. Alot of people were turning away one guy told them he only pays 20.00 for good guys and this is not even the 1/3 the size other people started clapping it was not a good thing.
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Wow..... glad I spent the time with the wife and family!
 
Drove the wheels right off, well sort of!
The new rear wheels fit snugly, a bit too snug on the left side, so I decided to make a slight adjustment.

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Compared to the right side which has some space.

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I thought about putting the '64 housing back in and ordering new axles, but this '70 rear end is actually about 5/8" shorter than the 64 and I need the space. The other problem is the pinion angle.

64 on the left...look at the difference which measures to about 12 degrees. The 64 points up approx 5 deg. and the 70 points down about 7.

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Glenwood said:
I thought about putting the '64 housing back in and ordering new axles, but this '70 rear end is actually about 5/8" shorter than the 64 and I need the space. The other problem is the pinion angle.

64 on the left...look at the difference which measures to about 12 degrees. The 64 points up approx 5 deg. and the 70 points down about 7.

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Gotcha.....
 
I should have dealt with this when I was putting it together last year, but I resisted due to lack of experience. Still not much experience, but determined to correct these issues. The wheels are kind of forcing me to deal with it. I put shims in to get rid of the vibration, but the shims were about 3.5 deg and not nearly enough. The vibration disappeared, at least enough that I couldn't notice. Probably shook up that old ball & trunion driveshaft pretty good. The transmission points down about 3 degrees, so to counter it, I think I have to point the pinion up about 3 degrees. Then I can measure for a new driveshaft.

To install the perches, I'll set the housing back on the leaf springs when the new perches arrive on Tuesday and then I plan to slip the axles back in so that I can mount the wheels to check the clearance. I'll snug it up and set the car on it's wheels to tweak the pinion angle, then I'll tack the perches in place. Wish I had a lift right about now!

The new headers arrived and they sure look sweet! I wanted to see if they will clear the steering box. A bit of a pain to install but they fit nicely! I had to jack the car up a bit, pull the steering column and remove the starter, but the driver's side squeezed in.

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Just wondering how many degrees of pinion angle you're going to put in? If you're looking for opinions I'd say that 5 would do the trick.
 
malex said:
Just wondering how many degrees of pinion angle you're going to put in? If you're looking for opinions I'd say that 5 would do the trick.
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Since the transmission points down (below the centerline-at 0 deg) about 3, I guess the target is to point the pinion up about equally. The original housing points up approx 5 deg from what I can tell. I imagine that is pretty close. Is there any more or less angle needed to compensate for coil up when accelerating?
 
Awesome work Glenwood.headers are tight but sure like what you have done. The info you just have will be very helpful later in my project. Thanks for all the heads up
 
Glenwood said:
Since the transmission points down (below the centerline-at 0 deg) about 3, I guess the target is to point the pinion up about equally. The original housing points up approx 5 deg from what I can tell. I imagine that is pretty close. Is there any more or less angle needed to compensate for coil up when accelerating?
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---
Spicer has a good online pinion angle calculator. If you enter your trans, driveshaft and pinion angle it will do the math for you. There's also a free angle finder iphone app for iPhones that makes it a snap to get your angles. There can be lots of wrap up, check some you tube videos.
 
Glenwood said:
Since the transmission points down (below the centerline-at 0 deg) about 3, I guess the target is to point the pinion up about equally. The original housing points up approx 5 deg from what I can tell. I imagine that is pretty close. Is there any more or less angle needed to compensate for coil up when accelerating?
Click to expand...

Those headers look sweet!! How's the fit around the torsion bars?

On pinion angle, you want it to equal out when giving it the gas. So -3 degrees and +3 degrees =0. If you set it like this at rest once the rear end winds up it will put you out again as the rear will put you closer to +6 degrees. I would think you would be better setting the rear angle at 0 degrees to account for windup which would put you at -3 and +3 under load.
 
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