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20 Questions

Andew Sury

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First, what are the blue things and do I need them?

Second, why would there be corrosion under my pivic valve? Valve cover looks no better back there.

She sucked another intake gasket at number 5. Need something better than the rubberized donkey **** I put in a few months ago.

And the valvetrain is noisey again. Any ideas on a better cold lash settings?

71285208_10218160243431610_5765238659888447488_n (1).jpg
 
Blue thing is o-ring for sealing plug tubes I think.

Rust in engine is from condensation.

if gasket is getting sucked in, you have a clearance issue between the head and intake more than likely. Use a thicker gasket and glue it in place.
 
Yes blue seal suppose keep from going in cylinders when you remove plugs.
Is your PVC clean and on vacuum tube on rear carb? Is there vacuum if you put a finger over tube?
If heads/ block has been cut can cause sealing issues. That will lean out number 5 cylinder, hows the plug look.
 
Your intake may need to be cut some. Got a picture of intake gasket.
 
As stated, the blue rings are for sealing the spark plug tubes so that oil won't enter the cylinders when you change plugs.

http://hothemiheads.com/cylinder_heads/spark_plug_seals_aluminum.html

What year, and is the engine from a car or truck? The intakes are different (especially for the exhaust crossover). As far as the rust, you are probably still using the draft tube instead of a PCV conversion.
Get the kit here: http://hothemiheads.com/valley_pans_related/pcv_stock_valley.html
it goes into the valley pan where the draft tube was.

View attachment 844234
Looked like a Second Gen Hemi to me.
 
I put those blue inserts in my Hemi and I believe they were from Milodon. I did it about 15 years ago.
 
Where are the other eighteen questions?

As has been stated the blue anodized aluminum tube seals keep oil out of the cylinders when you pull the plugs....

Also as mentioned you may have an issue with intake fit due to milled components... But even if everything is right intake leaks are common on Hemi's due to the big ports, small bolts & unreinforced gaskets...

My suggestion for the intake leak is first check alignment but if it looks good try a different sealant...

"What Sealant" You ask? Well I've had very good results with Hondabond 4. Sold by Honda Motorcycle dealers it's good stuff, they use it to glue engine cases together with no other gasket or seal... And you know Honda's don't leak....

Make sure you get Hondabond 4.. No regular Hondabond which is just a premium silicone...

Hondabond 4 is not silicone, it's kinda runny, kinda sticky & it doesn't harden it gets firm but never hardens... I use it on every intake but especially Hemi's, never had a failure... Just lay a smooth bead on both sides of the gasket.. When you work with it you'll know it's different..
 
A little honda bond (atv sealer) on the intake cures many ill's....
 
I take it the blue cups are not just an upgrade for something that Mopar put there. Looks like there is a receiver groove for orings, which are not there. Keep getting lots of oil in the plug tubes. Enough to cause a misfire. On three cylinders.

PCV is a valve in passenger valve cover that snaps in the breather hole and connected to the rear carb. Store grade hose so I found a new valve and will replace hose. The muck doesn't bother me that much as there is no baffle under the valve so humidity is collecting there. I'm going to use a steel brush and a shop vac to clean it best I can and just add some grease to the rockers and shafts to keep it at bay.

I set the valve lash at .017/.017 cold so I'm just going to tighten up a little. Maybe .015.

Next step is to run compression and leak down tonight. If it is good, I reassemble it so I can make it to Don Garlits next month in Ocala. If not I'll pull it and build it. Kinda planned on it in the long term anyway. But it would be tough to get it done in a month. I need to do the Torqueflite as well. If it sits for a week or so it wont drop into drive with a touch of loud pedal. After that it is perfect. It just bothers me.

And if nothing else, it needs MOPOWER!
 
I take it the blue cups are not just an upgrade for something that Mopar put there. Looks like there is a receiver groove for orings, which are not there. Keep getting lots of oil in the plug tubes. Enough to cause a misfire. On three cylinders.

PCV is a valve in passenger valve cover that snaps in the breather hole and connected to the rear carb. Store grade hose so I found a new valve and will replace hose. The muck doesn't bother me that much as there is no baffle under the valve so humidity is collecting there. I'm going to use a steel brush and a shop vac to clean it best I can and just add some grease to the rockers and shafts to keep it at bay.

I set the valve lash at .017/.017 cold so I'm just going to tighten up a little. Maybe .015.

Next step is to run compression and leak down tonight. If it is good, I reassemble it so I can make it to Don Garlits next month in Ocala. If not I'll pull it and build it. Kinda planned on it in the long term anyway. But it would be tough to get it done in a month. I need to do the Torqueflite as well. If it sits for a week or so it wont drop into drive with a touch of loud pedal. After that it is perfect. It just bothers me.

And if nothing else, it needs MOPOWER!

The tube seals are supposed to help with keeping oil out of the cylinders... And yes, they should have O rings...

Valve lash, exhaust should be a couple thou looser than intake, I'd probably try .016 ex & .014 in

Are you using a go/no go gauge? It can be hard to set valves on a Hemi do to the weird angles and engine compartment space so a go/no go gauge takes the feel variable away.. It goes or it doesn't...

The no gear cold on a torqueflite is common, unlike a Ford that does that it doesn't mean rebuild time, it's the fluid in the torque convertor draining into the pan... Mopars don't pump the fluid back to the convertor while running in park so it does fill the convertor till you drop it in gear... Try running the car in neutral instead.. There is a revised manual shift valve available that will fill the convertor in park... It can be installed by simply removing the valve body...

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1835-manual-valve
 
Re torque your manifold 4 or 5 times over 3 days after reinstall. Gaskets compress and bolts lose torque and clamping pressure. Crossrams with bolt inside the manifold retorqeing is mandatory. Not having o-rings in tube seals make oil going into cylinders worse, mo.
 
Finally got back to it. My OCD was killing me all week on a new trailer to get it to the Garlits Museum next month. Done!

Ran compression and everything except #2 is 165 plus. #2 is sitting at 140. I can live with it. Leakdown is less than 5%. I ran the valves to .35mm and .40mm exhaust.

I have the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and I have the o-rings in stock for the plug tubes. Turns out the bolts for the intake loosened up.

At least the engine is tight.
 
Oh!
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#8 Does the carny actually spray Pam on the bottles for the ring toss game?
#9 What is the capitol of Asyria?
#10 Why do you drive on the Parkway but park in the Driveway?
#11 Why do the Dolphins suck?
#12 Can Nurgamenov be stopped?
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#14 Why does Pelosi, Waters, Shiff, and Clinton still breathe our air?
#15 Who wins Dover tomorrow?
#16 Who wins the Cup?
#17 Why did Junior suck so bad?
#18 What is your favorite color?
#19 What is that ugly white slab in my can of beans?
#20 JJ, 8th cup next year or hang up the helmet?
 
Finally got back to it. My OCD was killing me all week on a new trailer to get it to the Garlits Museum next month. Done!

Ran compression and everything except #2 is 165 plus. #2 is sitting at 140. I can live with it. Leakdown is less than 5%. I ran the valves to .35mm and .40mm exhaust.

I have the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and I have the o-rings in stock for the plug tubes. Turns out the bolts for the intake loosened up.

At least the engine is tight.
Retorqueing the manifold until the bolts don't lose torgue is important but still think you may have fitment problem. Were you able to see impressions in old gasket? Think there's one port you can see through carb bores, if so see how the port match is.
 
Retorqueing the manifold until the bolts don't lose torgue is important but still think you may have fitment problem. Were you able to see impressions in old gasket? Think there's one port you can see through carb bores, if so see how the port match is.

It looks very good. Big thing I noticed is store grade hardware on the intake. 50 1/4 bolts do not help much when they are made of Chineseum.
 
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