Saving a rusty seized engine

[Durandal25]

......so trying ot figure out who makes a crankshaft socket that seats all the way on the crank.....the one I got from Summit, Milodon 27010, split on the first one and I have treat the replacement very gently. The issue, is that it won't seat all the way on the shaft....just about 1/2 inch on the groove....so you're not getting the full strenth of it. I wonder if I should get the harmonic back on there and make a rig using the 6 bolt holes and a plate of some description. I got the pistons to move a bit with the tapping....but its still stiff as a board.

 

[Durandal25]

So I can see some movement on the pistons now. Got nice silver piston walls below with a powdery rust line is the cylinders that I can see it on. Still has not really broke free yet, so this progress was made by tapping a wood block and using the deep creep. I've been hitting the wrist pin areas under the pistons from below and the connecting rods ect. Pretty sure this method will get her going in the next few weeks. I've got time. Pretty cool trying to get her gong without pulling the motor...we'll see. I'll see if a I can get some pics on here later too.....

 

[Durandal25]

....Houston, we have movement. 1/4 inch at first. Then about 1/2. Adding plenty of oil over the cam and letting it drip down trough bearings. Shooting Deep Creep up from the bottom over everything else.

 

[Durandal25]

Question: So not that I have some movement here....should I pay any attention to the transmission settings? It's in park.....will the torque converter be any issue at all? Car's an automatic. I was going to drop the starter off as well.....thoughts?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Hold on. Have you been trying to turn the engine over with the trans attached while it’s in park?

 

[Don Frelier]

The starter and torque converter should have no effect. (Automatic)
Can you roll it over with a bar?

 

[Durandal25]

Yes sir....it was frozen solid.

 

[Durandal25]

The starter and torque converter should have no effect. (Automatic)
Can you roll it over with a bar?

Crank socket, light tapping with wood on piston tops. (Round fence post....3.75 diameter.) Each piston, a few times a day. Lots of Deep creep ect.

 

[Durandal25]

Hold on. Have you been trying to turn the engine over with the trans attached while it’s in park?

...you can turn a car over while its in park? Who would have thought?

 

[Don Frelier]

Certainly, you start it in park...

 

[Durandal25]

Certainly, you start it in park...

...I think he was busting my balls a bit......

 

[Durandal25]

....so my other theory.....is that there is some accumulation surface rust at the tops of the bore....I think whats going on is I need to get that down a bit....Scotchbright pads....or brass wire wheel?

 

[Don Frelier]

The rings don't go up that far, I doubt that's an issue.
Is the resistance constant as you turn the crank?
You should be able to turn it with a wrench or a 1/2" ratchet 12" long.

 

[Durandal25]

The rings don't go up that far, I doubt that's an issue.
Is the resistance constant as you turn the crank?
You should be able to turn it with a wrench or a 1/2" ratchet 12" long.

....motor was rust froze up, so its just now beginning to turn a bit.....just being gentle. I guess I'll just keep working it over the next few weeks until a total rotation can be achieved.

 

[TrackPack]

Take it to your machine shop and stick in the hot tank. If it uses the super caustic ****, it’ll eat pistons and your done! Lol!!

I tried to save a 413 block and crank like that one time, but the shop wouldn't do it. Aluminum screws up the caustic supposedly.

 

[Builderguy]

I have the best luck using acetone and trans fluid 50/50 mix. Doesn't last long when exposed to air (acetone evaporates) but when sprayed on rusted material it just keeps creeping into the micro-spaces and starts tearing rust apart. Using this has saved me a lot of headaches. Since you got the pistons moving a little this mix will just go to town!

 

[khryslerkid]

....so my other theory.....is that there is some accumulation surface rust at the tops of the bore....I think whats going on is I need to get that down a bit....Scotchbright pads....or brass wire wheel?

View attachment 876602

First picture that we've seen of the bores. Looks like some heavy pitting on the cylinder walls? Not the clearest picture but if the cylinder walls are pitted you'll need boring and oversized pistons.

 

[Durandal25]

First picture that we've seen of the bores. Looks like some heavy pitting on the cylinder walls? Not the clearest picture but if the cylinder walls are pitted you'll need boring and oversized pistons.

PICs are typical Apple low light. Bores are smooth to the touch, but have a few light texture spots....breaking up with a finger nail. I've avoided any tampering with the piston walls other than mopping up with a blue shop towel.....seems to be working bit by bit. Rings should not be too bad, but they are stiff.....and this is what I expected. As the rings are designed to move independently with the piston, if any of them are fixed by rust withing their grooves ( I'm sure some are) they are whats fighting me....more MMO oil and Deep creep. What I do see from the crank socket manipulation is some brown rusty oil in pistons whose rings are probably free and are now allowing the oil to wash off the scale. Its kind of cool to try to sort it out this way. If not, I'll pull the motor and tranny and go deep.

 

[miller]

Engine won't turn, if trans is mounted up, and in park.

Things would be alot easier, if the engine was out, trans off.
Those pistons and rings are trash, anyway.

 

[Durandal25]

Team,

Just to be clear on the status of the car. Its on jack stands and is in park. I suppose one could argue that I've a lot to still learn, but I have really never had to un-seize a rusty engine. A few of you have pointed out that the car is in park, but may have missed that its also lifted. Will that stop it from turning?