Kickdown fitting 64 Sport Fury 426

[dmoore]

Does anyone know if this fitting is reproduced in a longer version? Changed to an Edelbrock Performer intake & Edelbrock AVS2 changed the total height so I cannot correctly adjust the throttle kick down pressure (need more rear adjustment) shifts into 3rd at 30 mph. I currently have an internal thread barrel nut about 3/4" long in between but it's not long enough. That original factory connector is 1/4 x 24 tpi & 2 5/8" long. Thanks!

 

[Nate S]

Is it an original 426 car? The 383/361 is a bit shorter, (too short). Could make up an extension, female threads on one end, male on the other. An Imperial would have the right rod too, might be easier to find than a 426W one. I have a CH4B with a Holley and the stock length one is working for me. *I redrilled the hole to attach the linkage on the carburetor because the provided hole was too far from the throttle shaft. I’ll explain if you want.

 

[dmoore]

Yes Nate, original 426 convertible..I guess drilling a hole in the adapter arm may work...I need to look at that closer...

 

[Nate S]

Yes Nate, original 426 convertible..I guess drilling a hole in the adapter arm may work...I need to look at that closer...

I found that the distance from the throttle shaft center to attachment point (hole) on the factory AFB was 1.12” and on the Holley (with Mopar adapter) was 1.5”. Throttle needed to be halfway down before kickdown was at off idle position. I drilled a new hole at 1.12” and a little bit back from the one provided on the bracket. Works perfectly now.

Oh yeah, with the 1.5” radius the throttle didn’t open all the way either.

 

[dmoore]

Just installed the recently built trans yesterday..I will look into your suggestion next day or two..Thanks for your input Nate!

 

[Geff McCarthy]

i have an Edelbrock 1407 and had same problem, not enough travel to move shift rod; shifted into 3rd about 20mph and no kickdown. Edelbrock sells MOPAR adapter, but I made my own with a 28tpi "turnbuckle" bi-directional thread, and a sawed off 3/8x28 bolt. Works perfectly now, and easily adjustable. Are you sure yours is 24tpi? Can't find photo but can take one and post if you like.

 

[dmoore]

Geff I misspoke..I mean't to correct that earlier..it is 28 tpi. And I bought that adapter when I purchased the carb knowing I would need it.

 

[dmoore]

Maybe I need to drop the ball stud down? As you can see the fitting is screwed out almost all the way. The intake/carb really changed the geometry. It's close on the adjustment but not perfect in my opinion. The kick down rod is fully forward and aligned with the ball stud at curb idle. Also your adapter looks diff than mine?

 

[dmoore]

i have an Edelbrock 1407 and had same problem, not enough travel to move shift rod; shifted into 3rd about 20mph and no kickdown. Edelbrock sells MOPAR adapter, but I made my own with a 28tpi "turnbuckle" bi-directional thread, and a sawed off 3/8x28 bolt. Works perfectly now, and easily adjustable. Are you sure yours is 24tpi? Can't find photo but can take one and post if you like.

Photo would be appreciated Geff......Thanks!

 

[Ron H]

Is this the era 727 trans or later I think would be post 66/67 trans? I have a '63 Plymouth with the original 727 push button. Reason I bring this up, in case it's on the radar, is the older 727's didn't give you on-demand kick down unless at WOT. Getting the right adjustment on the rod is important; but this won't do a lot for altering the shift points. I played with this extending the rod (just barely getting there but enough) with my ed-brock carb. But mine is a SB. I installed a shift kit some years back. Anyway the shift points on the older 727's suck unless you do some heady modifications I've looked into. You will reach 3rd gear around 25 mph or so with anything less than WOT despite proper rod adjustment. When I floor it I get 3rd gear around 72-73 mph. For me, for the time being, I manually shift when I want to 'assign' shift points. I'm no expert; but as I recall the SS models had manual valve bodies.

 

[Nate S]

Mine is currently shifting according to the service manual. Feels like where I'd shift it if it was a 3-speed. -except WOT, I've altered a governor to install to bump it from 4700 to 5100. That'll go in soon. I think if the linkage is right it'll do what you want. On an original '64 383-426 tranny.

 

[Ron H]

Mine is currently shifting according to the service manual. Feels like where I'd shift it if it was a 3-speed. -except WOT, I've altered a governor to install to bump it from 4700 to 5100. That'll go in soon. I think if the linkage is right it'll do what you want. On an original '64 383-426 tranny.

Just curious - what are your routine shift points in MPH (non-wot)? Asking cuz I'm still looking into some modifications on mine. Could be apples and oranges; but interested to know...

 

[Nate S]

Just curious - what are your routine shift points in MPH (non-wot)? Asking cuz I'm still looking into some modifications on mine. Could be apples and oranges; but interested to know...

Of course it changes depending on how hard I’m on it. I don’t drive terribly aggressively though. I have a 3.23 axle and 27” tires. Typical 1-2 is probably 15, typical 2-3 is probably 30. If I lean on it but not floored 1-2 is maybe 25 and 2-3 is maybe 60. This is from memory, didn’t take it for a ride just for this post. I do drive it a lot though, including today so my memory shouldn’t be too bad.

 

[Nate S]

Some more reference...
Here’s a shot of my carb from the side.

Here’s a shot of the factory AFB. Note distance from shaft to connection point.

Here’s a 361 kickdown rod (known too short).

Here’s that next to a 440 motor home kickdown with the bottom ends even.

Note that the 361 version is unwound about as far as it goes. Also note that the rod in my car is from an Imperial. Same engine, intake, carb and tranny but different part number rod?

Anyway, hope this is helpful.

 

[dmoore]

Thanks for the photo's Nate.....Yeah the Holley adapter is def different than mine. And I can't relocate it further down because I will lose "throw" has to be at the top where it is now. Maybe someone with my exact setup will chime in on the subject. Posting up a diff angle of what I currently have....

 

[Ron H]

Of course it changes depending on how hard I’m on it. I don’t drive terribly aggressively though. I have a 3.23 axle and 27” tires. Typical 1-2 is probably 15, typical 2-3 is probably 30. If I lean on it but not floored 1-2 is maybe 25 and 2-3 is maybe 60. This is from memory, didn’t take it for a ride just for this post. I do drive it a lot though, including today so my memory shouldn’t be too bad.

Hmm...I don't have that. With mine it's in 3rd gear by 25 mph unless I have it floored. Been informed that's what you get with the older 727's unless some modifications are done.

 

[Nate S]

Hmm...I don't have that. With mine it's in 3rd gear by 25 mph unless I have it floored. Been informed that's what you get with the older 727's unless some modifications are done.

If you mark the downshift rod where it goes through the bracket at idle and WOT, what's the difference in travel?

 

[Nate S]

Thanks for the photo's Nate.....Yeah the Holley adapter is def different than mine. And I can't relocate it further down because I will lose "throw" has to be at the top where it is now. Maybe someone with my exact setup will chime in on the subject. Posting up a diff angle of what I currently have....

View attachment 964214 View attachment 964215

I don't know if you're handy making simple parts but I'd be inclined to cut the rod and tap both new faces. I'd then make a plug that's 1" long with the same thread tapped hole through it. With a couple set screws you could put the new plug into the middle of the rod and extend it. If you ever go back to the 2206000 intake and 3611-S AFB just take the plug out and screw the original halves together.

 

[dmoore]

Ok, So here is what I did using Geff's suggestion. I will try it out next day or so...raining like a bitch here now!

 

[dmoore]

That's as simple as it gets!