Rear disc without the green bearings??

[747mopar]

I snagged a kit up in Summits scratch and dent department a while back and am finally thinking about installing it but have a question. I really dislike the idea of downgrading from a tapered bearing to the green bearing so is there really a reason why you have too? Obviously the main reason I believe they do this is to clean up the axle flanges to allow room for bolting the new brackets whereas I'll weld mine on? My only question is what about the side play, if memory serves me correctly the 8.75 is set up with .007 end play in the axles where a green bearing would be more positively located, .007 is peanuts and under load likely doesn't move at all?

Just looking for insight, talked to Right Stuff and really didn't get an answer other than "follow the directions".

 

[Bad B-rad]

I am almost positive, you are correct, they want you to use the "Green" bearings to eliminate the adjuster on pass side, to mount their bracket, for the calipers.
I bet if you can figure out how to mount both the calipers, without messing with stock mounts, (welding up a different mount to axle housing??)and adjuster, you could use the stock bearings/ set up.

I had to use the "green" bearings with a rear disc brake kit. It was a street car, and I had to change the Green bearings 3 times in 5K miles.
I would not use them again, unless it was a strip only car.
Just my thoughts.
Good luck with your brake swap!!!!

Maybe even post photos of how you mount your calipers, may be of help to other guys.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Check out these brackets. It says no need to shim the tapered bearings.

With these brackets you can easily and very economically convert your existing drum rear to disc brake with our AutoCAD engineered brackets. We make these brackets right here in the USA with state-of-the-art CNC laser machinery for excellent fit and finish. The inner section is made from 11 gauge steel, the same as you existing drum backing plate, so tapered bearings will not need to be shimmed.

This setup uses Toyota Previa rotors and T-Bird rear calipers, giving you an excellent affordable system. It matches your car's hydraulics very well, and it will fit inside Mopar drum 14" and up rims.

Note you will need to machine the axle flange to fit inside the rotor and that the rotor may need the pilot hole opened up.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=219

 

[747mopar]

I am almost positive, you are correct, they want you to use the "Green" bearings to eliminate the adjuster on pass side, to mount their bracket, for the calipers.
I bet if you can figure out how to mount both the calipers, without messing with stock mounts, (welding up a different mount to axle housing??)and adjuster, you could use the stock bearings/ set up.

I had to use the "green" bearings with a rear disc brake kit. It was a street car, and I had to change the Green bearings 3 times in 5K miles.
I would not use them again, unless it was a strip only car.
Just my thoughts.
Good luck with your brake swap!!!!

Maybe even post photos of how you mount your calipers, may be of help to other guys.

Interesting read for you. Although Right stuff didn't really answer my question they did provide this link.
http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

 

[Bad B-rad]

NICE!!!!!
I ended up scoring 11.75 pin type brake system for my 69 Charger, but before I got that, I was gonna go with a Scarebird kit.
I really LOVE some of those kits, a great option, for us "broke" guys, who cant afford the more expensive kits available.

 

[Bad B-rad]

Interesting read for you. Although Right stuff didn't really answer my question they did provide this link.
http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

I bought all of my bearings from Cass, he is excellent with customer service, and price.
the first set of "Green" bearings came with my master power brake rear disc kit.
I think that kit used Pontiac rotors and some GM calipers. Second set I got from Mopar, and 3rd set I don't remember, as car was sold, but I ended up doing work on car for new owner.
That car was built in 2003 so may have been the non snap ring style.

 

[747mopar]

I bought all of my bearings from Cass, he is excellent with customer service, and price.
the first set of "Green" bearings came with my master power brake rear disc kit.
I think that kit used Pontiac rotors and some GM calipers. Second set I got from Mopar, and 3rd set I don't remember, as car was sold, but I ended up doing work on car for new owner.
That car was built in 2003 so may have been the non snap ring style.

I believe the kit I have uses Cadillac Elderodo calipers with the built it mechanical E brake?

 

[Bad B-rad]

Good deal,727mopar!!!
My rear disc kit,(again 2003 ish) didnt impress me much, but I had large cam, and little to no vacuum to run the booster.
At the time Master Power Brakes didn't offer a new master cylinder for the disc/disc kit , just different valving.(from the disc drum kit, I bought first)
So could have been any of those issues hurting the brake performance on my car.
It stopped fine, no issues stopping, but I don't really know if I noticed much of a change from power disc/drum, to power disc/disc.

 

[747mopar]

Check out these brackets. It says no need to shim the tapered bearings.

With these brackets you can easily and very economically convert your existing drum rear to disc brake with our AutoCAD engineered brackets. We make these brackets right here in the USA with state-of-the-art CNC laser machinery for excellent fit and finish. The inner section is made from 11 gauge steel, the same as you existing drum backing plate, so tapered bearings will not need to be shimmed.

This setup uses Toyota Previa rotors and T-Bird rear calipers, giving you an excellent affordable system. It matches your car's hydraulics very well, and it will fit inside Mopar drum 14" and up rims.

Note you will need to machine the axle flange to fit inside the rotor and that the rotor may need the pilot hole opened up.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=219

View attachment 980925

Curious to what "no need to shim" means? I have an adjuster nut with a locking tab, no shims?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Curious to what "no need to shim" means? I have an nut adjuster nut with a locking tab, no shims?

Yea, I had that thought too.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Here is a very good writeup on the rear disc brakes of various makers.

https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/rear-discs.html

 

[747mopar]

Here is a very good writeup on the rear disc brakes of various makers.

https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/rear-discs.html

That article covers my previous question, the shim they speak of is to compensate for the drum backing plate which their bracket replaces keeping spacing the same. Nice to see the kit they like uses the same calipers that are in my kit.

Guess I should have checked the latest offerings before posting, this article answers my question. I didn't realize in the short span of time since I've looked at them that companies are already offering brackets that retain the original bearing... Sweeeeet!

 

[yella71]

I snagged a kit up in Summits scratch and dent department a while back and am finally thinking about installing it but have a question. I really dislike the idea of downgrading from a tapered bearing to the green bearing so is there really a reason why you have too? Obviously the main reason I believe they do this is to clean up the axle flanges to allow room for bolting the new brackets whereas I'll weld mine on? My only question is what about the side play, if memory serves me correctly the 8.75 is set up with .007 end play in the axles where a green bearing would be more positively located, .007 is peanuts and under load likely doesn't move at all?

Just looking for insight, talked to Right Stuff and really didn't get an answer other than "follow the directions".

Im wondering why you think its a down grade to install green bearings? Do you know anything about what type of bearing it is? do tell

 

[747mopar]

Im wondering why you think its a down grade to install green bearings? Do you know anything about what type of bearing it is? do tell

I don't "think", it's an absolute undeniable fact. I'm an industrial mechanic/machinist and use both in pretty extreme conditions, absolutely no comparison between a standard roller bearing and a tapered bearing at all. Having said that the green bearings have been successfully used for decades, nothing wrong with using them at all I just don't get trading off a better bearing for a lesser one.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Well gee, guess all those people that run the 9 inch on EVERYTHING from classics to Street Outlaws gotta be wrong. Hell my 98’ Dodge Ram 1500 had a similar type of the green bearings and never had a problem with them.

Run whatcha want, green or tapered, won’t make a damn bit of difference.

 

[dodgedifferent2]

I make a kit that uses 2000 ford mustang rotors and calipers.

I designed my kit to work with tapered bearings.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rear-disc-brakes-on-8-3-4.128394/

 

[747mopar]

Well gee, guess all those people that run the 9 inch on EVERYTHING from classics to Street Outlaws gotta be wrong. Hell my 98’ Dodge Ram 1500 had a similar type of the green bearings and never had a problem with them.

Run whatcha want, green or tapered, won’t make a damn bit of difference.

If you read what I consistently say on the matter you'll see I never say they won't work but quite the opposite, I always say they've been used successfully for decades... But they're still inferior. Ask yourself this question, how many front wheel bearings have you replaced do to failure on let's day a mid to late 80's or later car that runs double tapered bearings? Now how many on 1990 and up?? I can honestly say I've never had a tapered wheel bearing failure... EVER. My daily drivers, probably 50% of them have failed by 120,000-150,000 miles. Today front wheel bearing failure is common, very common.

 

[747mopar]

I make a kit that uses 2000 ford mustang rotors and calipers.

I designed my kit to work with tapered bearings.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rear-disc-brakes-on-8-3-4.128394/View attachment 984314

I might hit you up if I didn't already have the kit minus that one bracket lol.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I hear what your saying, it’s just old hearing the same old debate. Both styles of bearings are used successfully. For me, on full restoration, tapered, resto-mod, sealed.

 

[yella71]

Todays cars use sealed for life bearings. one and done .On our old junk you can clean and repack the bearings when you want and also adjust them. . I myself have replaced many a tapered roller on older vehicles as they will wear out like all things. also trailer bearings are tapered rollers and if I had a dollar for all that I have replaced on them.....oh wait, I get paid to replace them when they are shot so yeah theres that