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Flow Kooler 1679 water pump

hunt2elk

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Have any of you guys swapped a standard Mopar water pump with one of these FK pumps with no other changes?
Reason I ask is on my 493" stroker, Glen Ray 22" radiator with shroud, 216 clutch fan, 180* Stant Super Stat. At 80* ambient or cooler it runs 190* all the time. However, with this hot humid weather we have been having it raises temp quickly while idling at stoplights. Wondering if their claim of moving the water faster to drop hot idle problems is true.
 
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I put one on this spring, I have noticed a drop in engine temp.
 
IMO how much of a change you will experience depends entirely on the water pump design in the car now

I looked into one last fall and after pulling my existing pump felt it was no different than the one I had.
I had tried a couple different thermostats including a stant superstat and the car will still run warm and temp gauge would actually climbed up as I drove the car on the freeway

My biggest gain was going to a Stewart Component thermostat design.
Mine is a 160 temp stat and on ambient temp days in the 80s or low 90s. mine stays in the mid 160-170 range while cruising.

In town stop and go driving the temps will get into the upper 180 range .

Dead stop and at idle for maybe 20-30 minutes it will get to about 200 or 205 . As soon as I get moving again it cools back down about 20 degrees or so
 
Have any of you guys swapped a standard Mopar water pump with one of these FK pumps with no other changes?
Reason I ask is on my 493" stroker, Glen Ray 22" radiator with shroud, 216 clutch fan, 180* Stant Super Stat. At 80* ambient or cooler it runs 190* all the time. However, with this hot humid weather we have been having it raises temp quickly while idling at stoplights. Wondering if their claim of moving the water faster to drop hot idle problems is true.
Flow Koolers Rock !!
PS
Install the water wetter from
Lucas or whom you like .
It reduces the surface tension of water , thereby increasing the flow. Try it You’ll see temp drops
Yep !
And I’m the worst skeptic ever ..
 
IMO how much of a change you will experience depends entirely on the water pump design in the car now

I looked into one last fall and after pulling my existing pump felt it was no different than the one I had.
I had tried a couple different thermostats including a stant superstat and the car will still run warm and temp gauge would actually climbed up as I drove the car on the freeway

My biggest gain was going to a Stewart Component thermostat design.
Mine is a 160 temp stat and on ambient temp days in the 80s or low 90s. mine stays in the mid 160-170 range while cruising.

In town stop and go driving the temps will get into the upper 180 range .

Dead stop and at idle for maybe 20-30 minutes it will get to about 200 or 205 . As soon as I get moving again it cools back down about 20 degrees or so

Do you remember the part # for your stat? Did quick search and their website states that you need to use their high flow water pumps with their thermostats. Didn't see and listed for Mopar, just Ford and Chevy.
 
Forgot to mention that the water pump and housing is PRW and was installed by the engine builder.
 
How much of a drop on a hot day at idle?
This is on a race car and I see about a 10 degree difference and then the cool down is much quicker over the stock water pump.
 
Have any of you guys swapped a standard Mopar water pump with one of these FK pumps with no other changes?
Reason I ask is on my 493" stroker, Glen Ray 22" radiator with shroud, 216 clutch fan, 180* Stant Super Stat. At 80* ambient or cooler it runs 190* all the time. However, with this hot humid weather we have been having it raises temp quickly while idling at stoplights. Wondering if their claim of moving the water faster to drop hot idle problems is true.

Their claim (pump manufacturer) of "moving the water faster" is a fundamental aspect of the science of thermodynamics, which deals with the velocity, volume and temperature relationship of heat exchange principles along with log mean temperature differences between the two fluid streams and the specific heat characteristics of the fluid being cooled......in short, they are correct.
BOB RENTON
 
I went from a Mancini high flow to a FC, didn't see a lick of difference.
 
I went from a Mancini high flow to a FC, didn't see a lick of difference.
What were your results using the Mancini pump vs results using the Flowkooler pump? Before and after temps and times to achieve desired results and ambient temp conditions, were pump drive ratios identical; it would be nice to be able to correlate results...numbers speak volumes..........."inquiring minds want to know".....
BOB RENTON
 
Their claim (pump manufacturer) of "moving the water faster" is a fundamental aspect of the science of thermodynamics, which deals with the velocity, volume and temperature relationship of heat exchange principles along with log mean temperature differences between the two fluid streams and the specific heat characteristics of the fluid being cooled......in short, they are correct.
BOB RENTON
So in theory, you agree that using a Flow Kooler pump should lower the water temp a bit because it would be moving faster?
 
So in theory, you agree that using a Flow Kooler pump should lower the water temp a bit because it would be moving faster?

ABSOLUTELY....higher system velocity (in terms of ft/sec) in conjunction with higher volumes (in terms of gallons/min) is fundamental for efficient heat transfer efficiencies. Do the calcs for yourself....you'll see the results....
BOB RENTON
 
What were your results using the Mancini pump vs results using the Flowkooler pump? Before and after temps and times to achieve desired results and ambient temp conditions, were pump drive ratios identical; it would be nice to be able to correlate results...numbers speak volumes..........."inquiring minds want to know".....
BOB RENTON

The reason I tried the FC was my half filled block tends creep up to 195 on the really hot FL days.
I went with one of the fancy aluminum radiators with 2 rows of 1.25 tubes,and the supplied "cheap" fans and shroud, and it just wasn't enough for my engine on really hot days.
Every drive is different, you might catch 2 traffic lights or 5 in a 10 mile run, so it's impossible to give apples to apples and numbers.
I went with the FC pump, she's a nice piece for sure. The thought was maybe moving more coolant would be enough to stop the temp creep.
What fixed me in the end was a 4 row, and 2 Spal fans mounted on the radiator with no shroud.
The air can blow through the core at high speeds, and the offset fans each cover one side with some overlap in the middle.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I ordered a FlowKooler from Summit and will post the results once I get it installed....
 
I tried a Tuff-Stuff brand high volume pump and it was no better than a stock unit. On hotter (90+) days my engine would climb to thermostat temp fairly quickly, then keep creeping up and eventually plateau at about 205 and sometimes a little closer to 210. A little hot for my liking. Even on cool days it seemed to struggle staying near thermostat temp.

So, I switched back to the FlowKooler and now the temp is slower to get to 180 and when it does, it stays 180-185 all day. On the hotter days, it might get to a max of 195 and that takes some driving, then the car sitting and heat soaking, then more driving, then more sitting...and so on. It won't get that warm even on a hot day, on only one trip. My engine is a solid-cammed 505",

And...don't listen to the BS that "higher flow pumps can make the engine run hotter because the coolant flows through the radiator too fast..."


FYI the EMP Stewart thermostat and Milodon are the same. Made in USA by Robertshaw and re-branded. Either one is excellent and is a good choice with any pump.
Milodon on the left, Stewart 305 on the right...
20210609_175901.jpg


Milodon
20210609_175830.jpg


Stewart 305
20210609_175840.jpg
 
Do you remember the part # for your stat? Did quick search and their website states that you need to use their high flow water pumps with their thermostats. Didn't see and listed for Mopar, just Ford and Chevy.

Here's the 180. Summit lists it as for small-block Mopar but they're the same size.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-305

They have other temp ratings too you just need to be sure it's the 2.5" dia thermostat, the descriptions can be a little vague..
 
I tried a Tuff-Stuff brand high volume pump and it was no better than a stock unit. On hotter (90+) days my engine would climb to thermostat temp fairly quickly, then keep creeping up and eventually plateau at about 205 and sometimes a little closer to 210. A little hot for my liking. Even on cool days it seemed to struggle staying near thermostat temp.

So, I switched back to the FlowKooler and now the temp is slower to get to 180 and when it does, it stays 180-185 all day. On the hotter days, it might get to a max of 195 and that takes some driving, then the car sitting and heat soaking, then more driving, then more sitting...and so on. It won't get that warm even on a hot day, on only one trip. My engine is a solid-cammed 505",

And...don't listen to the BS that "higher flow pumps can make the engine run hotter because the coolant flows through the radiator too fast..."


FYI the EMP Stewart thermostat and Milodon are the same. Made in USA by Robertshaw and re-branded. Either one is excellent and is a good choice with any pump.
Milodon on the left, Stewart 305 on the right...
View attachment 1124160

Milodon
View attachment 1124161

Stewart 305
View attachment 1124162

Your statment: And...don't listen to the BS that "higher flow pumps can make the engine run hotter because the coolant flows through the radiator too fast..." is ABSOLUTELY SPOT ON.....Higher circulation velocities (and volumes) is your friend....and is supported by the laws of thermodynamics.
BOB RENTON
 
Your statment: And...don't listen to the BS that "higher flow pumps can make the engine run hotter because the coolant flows through the radiator too fast..." is ABSOLUTELY SPOT ON.....Higher circulation velocities (and volumes) is your friend....and is supported by the laws of thermodynamics.
BOB RENTON
Absolutely.
As a mechanical contractor, when you want to get a hydronic system to heat a room more without adding radiation, you can either make more of a TD (temperature difference, as in hotter water), or push water faster into that loop,
It's amazing how the " water too fast through the radiator" wives tale continues to live.
 
Here's the 180. Summit lists it as for small-block Mopar but they're the same size.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-305

They have other temp ratings too you just need to be sure it's the 2.5" dia thermostat, the descriptions can be a little vague..
I always drill a 1/8" hole in my Stants. Do you do that as well on the Robertshaws?
 
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