Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

The waiting game continues but I'm driven to get something done.
The machinist is still dealing with his 40 year old live in son that supposedly has/had covid.
The balance guy hasn't called.
I have the brake parts here so there is some progress I can make.
Regarding the hydroboost, there are 2 pressure ports and one return line. The pressure port at the left is input from the steering pump, the one on the right goes to the steering chuck. The return line is supposed to go to a T and back to the pump. This is how I'm tentatively planning on routing the lines...Pressure in white, return in blue:

I think it will look cleaner with two lines hugging the fender apron, behind the HB and master cylinder.
Regarding the return line. This is the Borgeson steering chuck and the hard line they included:

I need to tap into this hard line somehow. I don't know exactly how I'm going to do it though.
Ideally, I'd use a "Y" type of connector but those are hard to weld....and certainly out of my skillset.

I would be satisfied with an elbow style but I haven't decided how to place it:

This would be low in profile and easily clear the headers but I'm not sure how it would clear the inner fender.

A fitting on the top.....

Should clear everything but without having the engine in place, I can only guess. If I screwed it up, I could make another line out of 3/8" tubing.
I need to find a shop nearby that makes hydraulic hoses. The fittings on the HB unit are 6 AN.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I’m not sure the official term, but would a t fitting, and flare fittings, like on brake lines work?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Why not a tee with 45* flares?

 

[NoCar2023]

Another option for you.
ACDelco 19207054 ACDelco Power Steering Reservoirs | Summit Racing

 

[Kern Dog]

That is an excellent idea. I do wonder if the guts from any Saginaw pump directly fit.
This would be a cleaner way to go. Thanks, Mark!

 

[NoCar2023]

I believe all the type 1 Saginaw pumps are the same diameter.
If not, the duel return pump from an old Chevy P Chassis could work.
Borgeson also has them.

 

[Kern Dog]

Lots of updates coming. I'll chime in this afternoon!

 

[Kern Dog]

The suggestion for the new P/S reservoir was a great one. Thanks @1972GY8SE !
The unit is backordered and won't be available for 3 weeks (At the least) so I took that idea and went "junkyardin" in search of a used one. I had luck at the only yard I visited....a self serve facility that doesn't even charge an entry fee....Planet Auto is a new company in town. Low prices and none of that $2 at the door malarkey.
I walked the rows and landed on a mid 1990s Chevy 4wd with a 454 and Hydroboost. It had this Saginaw with the 2 return ports.

The serpentine belt style pulley will not be used, obviously.

It has been awhile since I've removed a pressed on pulley.

Above you can see the 2 return nipples and the cut off pressure line.

Look at the shape of the reservoir on the Chevy pump.....

People have called these pumps the "Canned Ham".

The older style certainly matches that description. The ones for Hydroboost don't. I'm guessing they are bigger for the additional demand from the pump?

Here is why the serpentine belt type pulley didn't matter.

I simply pulled the Chevy pump out of the reservoir. The plan is to "rebody" my pump with this Chevy reservoir.

 

[Kern Dog]

Disassembly isn't hard. The pump is retained by three points at the back.....

Two are dual purpose studs that hold the unit together along with providing mounting points for a bracket. The other is the pressure fitting.

With these out, I used a small rubber mallet to tap the pump out. I did the same to my original pump.

The brackets, inline cooler and reservoir were sandblasted, etch primed and painted satin black.

To me, it looks close enough to original to not look too different from the original:

The pulley that I have measures 5 7/8".....the picture angle looks like 5 3/4" though.

I was curious if the pulley would move fast enough to work both the steering box and HB unit. I have a pump with a smaller pulley....

The 5 1/8" is approximately 10.5% smaller but the method of attachment is different. My original pump used a woodruff key and nut...

The smaller pulley is on a pump that has that Allen hex in the middle.

 

[Kern Dog]

With the pump and reservoir situation handled, I decided to recheck the clearance on the cam bearings.
Last week, I finally got to see the machinist again to get the #3 cam bearing pressed in. To recap, that was one that moved out of position when I tapped the cutter cam in as described in post # 263. The issue of tight fitting cams isn't a surprise to me. A week ago, a guy on Moparts started a thread about it in their race forum. It is the same situation that I've seen...The consensus is that the factory did a mediocre job of align boring the cam journals. Instead, they installed the bearings and align honed them. EACH time new bearings are installed, you're back to square one. If you are a lucky one with a block that had proper journal alignment, you may not even know of this problem. Blame it on core shift, maybe drunken factory machinists or guys at the foundry....maybe even a matter of hundreds of thousands of heating and cooling cycles from a 50 year old block?

This time instead of bearing grease, I lubed the cutter with 5w20 oil.

I generated a few shavings....

Both #3 and #5 shaved off a little material.

Now, I can clean the inside of the block with the wire brushes and soap & water.
I'm still waiting on the balancing. Tomorrow will be the end of the 3rd week that they have had it.
I am friggin tired of delays like this. The man on the phone said "We should be able to get that done within a week".

Yeah... I agree. You SHOULD, so why haven't you?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Disassembly isn't hard. The pump is retained by three points at the back.....

View attachment 1336334

Two are dual purpose studs that hold the unit together along with providing mounting points for a bracket. The other is the pressure fitting.

With these out, I used a small rubber mallet to tap the pump out. I did the same to my original pump.

View attachment 1336335

The brackets, inline cooler and reservoir were sandblasted, etch primed and painted satin black.

View attachment 1336339

View attachment 1336340

To me, it looks close enough to original to not look too different from the original:

View attachment 1336344




The pulley that I have measures 5 7/8".....the picture angle looks like 5 3/4" though.

View attachment 1336341

I was curious if the pulley would move fast enough to work both the steering box and HB unit. I have a pump with a smaller pulley....

View attachment 1336345

The 5 1/8" is approximately 10.5% smaller but the method of attachment is different. My original pump used a woodruff key and nut...

View attachment 1336346

The smaller pulley is on a pump that has that Allen hex in the middle.

View attachment 1336347

Looks Bitchin'! How did you know the pump diameter would match up correctly with the Chevy reservoir diameter? Did you measure at the junkyard or did you get lucky?

 

[Kern Dog]

I took a chance on it and it worked out.
The pump slid right into the reservoir with a little Vaseline on the big "O" ring. I was curious if the attachment points in the back would line up. They did.
$33 at the Junkyard plus the primer and paint.

 

[PRHeads]

https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/m...s/support_technical_bulletins_pdfs/tb2078.pdf

 

[Kern Dog]

Thank you, Dwayne. from the article.....
"A tight fit can be corrected by reaming or hand scraping the bearing surface. Honing is not recommended because grit from the hone stone will become embedded in the bearing surface and cause wear to the camshaft journals. A homemade reamer can be made using an old camshaft if the journals are still within spec. Cut a groove diagonally across each journal about 1/8” deep. Then relieve the journal surface on one side of the groove, leaving the other side sharp. This produces a single flute reamer that can be turned with the aid of an old cam sprocket to remove bearing metal from the high or tight spots. This procedure works pretty well with babbitt-lined cam bearings, which have a soft surface that cuts easily."

I first dealt with this around 2014 with this 440 block, then in 2020 with the 383 I built for Jigsaw:

 

[ckessel]

Greg, did Cass give you any specs for GPH requirements to use the Hydraboost system? I'm curious to see if your existing pump will have enough GPH flow and pressure to operate the Hydra unit plus the Borgeson box without conflict due to lack of flow and or pressure.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Greg, did Cass give you any specs for GPH requirements to use the Hydraboost system? I'm curious to see if your existing pump will have enough GPH flow and pressure to operate the Hydra unit plus the Borgeson box without conflict due to lack of flow and or pressure.

good point. Plus, as Greg mentioned, his new pulley is larger now, so a slight decrease in pump pressure.

 

[ckessel]

News as it happens. I'm curious to see what the pump requirements may be to run both. I have a Borgeson box for my car, going to run the same Dr Diff brakes as Greg[ manual for me] but just in case its not enough stopping power being manual I want to plan ahead. I have the SDC serp setup for my ride, it uses a 99- Jeep Grand Cherokee pump.

 

[Kern Dog]

good point. Plus, as Greg mentioned, his new pulley is larger now, so a slight decrease in pump pressure.

The pulley is the same one that I've had for 20 years. I mentioned the spare pump that has a smaller pulley.
I have not talked with Cass about the pump requirements. I am on my own here. Part of the deal was that I am supposed to figure this out and report back to him.

 

[NoCar2023]

Good info here.
Pulling Out All the Stops with Hydroboost Brakes

To increase overall Saginaw power steering pump volume, drill out the orifice behind the reservoir's "pressure out" fitting (A, design may vary). Behind this fitting is the flow control valve assembly (B). Increase pressure by disassembling valve and removing shims (C).

 

[NoCar2023]

I believe the Mopar/Saginaw flow valves are rated at around 800-1000psi. You may have to increase the pressure — you may have to increase volume, also.

By the way, I installed a Borgeson Box on my 72, and the steering effort is a little high at a lower RPM.