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Should the Torque converter be moved up during install?

Myasylum

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Hi, I have everything in place for my rebuilt transmission. But the flex plate is about 1/2" away from the torque converter.
The torque converter is all the way back in the transmission. Can it be pulled up 1/2"?

Thanks@

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Is that a yes, it's OK to move up a half inch?

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Yes, that is the way it should be. Torque converter should not be bottomed out on pump drive lugs.
 
Tighten the bolts and move on to the next crisis!
 
The convertor should be 1/8" to 3/16" away from the flex plate when pushed forward. If the gap
is more than that, you should shim it with hardened washers. Unfortunately, you may need longer
bolts. 1/2" is more than twice the gap that it should be. There are numerous videos on YouTube
on this subject. Yes, not enough gap would be binding on the pump impeller.
 
See that is what I was reading too but that was for a Chevy, I thought I'd ask on this forum since it's a Mopar forum, and it may be different. Everyone else here just says bolt it up.

Then people wonder why I ask. Misinformation everywhere.

However if others have bolted this up with a 1/2" gap and it worked for them, maybe there is nothing to worry about...
 
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I'd add a Hardened washer or two. Would not what the pump just caught or to deep. MO.
 
I have never pulled one apart in over 40 years that the factory felt washers were required and there is no mention of it in the FSM. So do what you want if you think it will do any good.
 
The hub of the converter needs to pilot into the back of the crankshaft. So this adding a washer idea is not a good one.
 
The three things that engage the torque convertor are the input spline which rotates, the Stator support
that keeps a part inside the convertor stationary, (hence the name Stator) and the two front pump lugs
that pump oil through the trans. The two splines are fine just about with any gap, but the pump gear
is about 3/4" thick and needs to be driven with as much of the two cutouts in the nose of the convertor
without pushing it up against anything causing wear, chips, shavings, etc. It needs to operate in a "Free"
state so the gap is just a close figure. I had a friend with a Buick GS and while no gap didn't hurt his trans,
it kept pushing on his crank and ate through the thrust bearing and into the block! What a Hot Mess! Maybe
his convertor ballooned too adding to the failure. As far as the convertor piloting into the crankshaft, the
pilot on the convertor slides into the crank about an inch and a quarter, so shimming it 3/8" won't bother it.
 
The three things that engage the torque convertor are the input spline which rotates, the Stator support
that keeps a part inside the convertor stationary, (hence the name Stator) and the two front pump lugs
that pump oil through the trans. The two splines are fine just about with any gap, but the pump gear
is about 3/4" thick and needs to be driven with as much of the two cutouts in the nose of the convertor
without pushing it up against anything causing wear, chips, shavings, etc. It needs to operate in a "Free"
state so the gap is just a close figure. I had a friend with a Buick GS and while no gap didn't hurt his trans,
it kept pushing on his crank and ate through the thrust bearing and into the block! What a Hot Mess! Maybe
his convertor ballooned too adding to the failure.
Why are we bring up GM crap issues on a MOPAR form. WP resolved those issues years ago when he started up Chrysler.
 
Because the GM trans front pump is very similar to the 727. GOT IT?
 
In 40 years of working with 727's, I have NEVER seen washers or shims at torque converter mounts. The distance from the engine to the transmission mount face (rear of engine block) to converter mounting surface on the drive plate is a defined distance. The distance from the front of the transmission to the oil pump mounting surface is also a defined distance. These measurements are constant and do not change from engine to engine or transmission to transmission. The pump drive slots on the converter neck are way deeper than the oil pump drive lugs are thick. As long as you felt 3 definite engagements when you put the torque converter on, you are good to go. Nothing wrong with having to move converter ahead 1/2" to bolt to drive plate. It is when you have no clearance here when you have to worry. That means the oil pump drive has not engaged.
 
In 40 years of working with 727's, I have NEVER seen washers or shims at torque converter mounts. The distance from the engine to the transmission mount face (rear of engine block) to converter mounting surface on the drive plate is a defined distance. The distance from the front of the transmission to the oil pump mounting surface is also a defined distance. These measurements are constant and do not change from engine to engine or transmission to transmission. The pump drive slots on the converter neck are way deeper than the oil pump drive lugs are thick. As long as you felt 3 definite engagements when you put the torque converter on, you are good to go. Nothing wrong with having to move converter ahead 1/2" to bolt to drive plate. It is when you have no clearance here when you have to worry. That means the oil pump drive has not engaged.

you're right you know..jpg
 
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