318 Cam Suggestions

[YY1]

3-8-Teen Dream

Something like the Comp XE256 (or similar specs/brand unimportant) with NEW VALVE SPRINGS will make a nice responsive package. Sure you can go one step bigger with the cam and find yourself wanting a better torque converter,then head work,etc,etc.

That or the Summit K6900
Advertised Duration 278/288, Lift .421/.444

The Comp 256 only gives up 10 HP to the next size up 262, but the 256 has a MUCH broader and flatter torque curve.

Those two would be my top picks.

 

[DeltaV]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. To answer a couple questions I guess I would like to see if I can get another 30HP or so out of it without any major work. I also know I've got a lower compression engine due to it being a 1973 so I'm just hnt sure what my best options would be. So I'm not looking for a drag strip car, but a little more fun to drive would be great. Right now it's a wonderful daily driver. But its "get up and go" wouldn't be much better than driving a honda or toyota. It's got plenty of power to get moving but nothing too fun if that makes sense. Budget would be somewhere between $1000-$1500.

I guess I'm asking, if you inherited this car today and wanted an increase in power and torque, what would you do?

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Not sure about your list. Which ones are necessary and which items are wish items?

It looks like you have already changed the wheels and they look like a nice upgrade from what you posted in any earlier thread.
Old:

The car sat for awhile? I would flush the cooling system and take the radiator to a shop for cleaning and pressure test. Maybe you already have? Flush out the brake system too.

Below is what I did to my '71 Satellite (318-2V) a long time (50 years ago); and I'll note I was on a tight budget:
1) Cast iron 340 intake (spread bore)
2) Holley carb (600 cfm?)
3) 340 purple shaft (I don't recall the specs)
4) Direct Connection double roller timing chain & gears.
5) Local shop "refurbished" the heads (e.g., replace bad valves, valve guides, and replaced valve guide seals). They might have taken off 0.010" from the cylinder side. I did not go with a 3 angle valve job.
6) Thin steel head gasket from Direct Connection. No longer available.
7) Added dual exhaust. I did not use aftermarket headers. Used 2-1/4" exhaust pipes and tail pipes.
8) Transmission shop rebuilt the "904". I drove it for a few months and then I installed a B&M Trick Shift kit. I don't recall which level I used. Drained the torque converter too since it had a drain plug. Used B&M trick shift trans fluid.
9) Light centrifugal spring/weight in the stock distributor.

I cannot suggest a cam for you because I don't know...there are so many options available today. Also, there are more options now for heads than when I was working on my 318; and 340 cylinder heads were not in my budget back in the day.

I would do the following to your car before going with different cylinder heads:
1) add/upgrade front and rear anti-roll bars.
2) use a sure grip unit in the differential.
3) maybe you should consider a higher stall torque converter.
4) how are your shock absorbers? I use Bilsteins on my newer cars. My older cars don't need shock replacements yet.

Maintenance items...
1) front wheel bearing seals when you grease the bearings.
2) brake piston caliper seals
3) rear brake wheel cylinder seals
4) various stuff with an old car (e.g., U-joints)

Have fun!!!

 

[67_satellite]

Not sure about your list. Which ones are necessary and which items are wish items?

It looks like you have already changed the wheels and they look like a nice upgrade from what you posted in any earlier thread.
Old:
View attachment 1886521

The car sat for awhile? I would flush the cooling system and take the radiator to a shop for cleaning and pressure test. Maybe you already have? Flush out the brake system too.

View attachment 1886522

Below is what I did to my '71 Satellite (318-2V) a long time (50 years ago); and I'll note I was on a tight budget:
1) Cast iron 340 intake (spread bore)
2) Holley carb (600 cfm?)
3) 340 purple shaft (I don't recall the specs)
4) Direct Connection double roller timing chain & gears.
5) Local shop "refurbished" the heads (e.g., replace bad valves, valve guides, and replaced valve guide seals). They might have taken off 0.010" from the cylinder side. I did not go with a 3 angle valve job.
6) Thin steel head gasket from Direct Connection. No longer available.
7) Added dual exhaust. I did not use aftermarket headers. Used 2-1/4" exhaust pipes and tail pipes.
8) Transmission shop rebuilt the "904". I drove it for a few months and then I installed a B&M Trick Shift kit. I don't recall which level I used. Drained the torque converter too since it had a drain plug. Used B&M trick shift trans fluid.
9) Light centrifugal spring/weight in the stock distributor.

I cannot suggest a cam for you because I don't know...there are so many options available today. Also, there are more options now for heads than when I was working on my 318; and 340 cylinder heads were not in my budget back in the day.

I would do the following to your car before going with different cylinder heads:
1) add/upgrade front and rear anti-roll bars.
2) use a sure grip unit in the differential.
3) maybe you should consider a higher stall torque converter.
4) how are your shock absorbers? I use Bilsteins on my newer cars. My older cars don't need shock replacements yet.

Maintenance items...
1) front wheel bearing seals when you grease the bearings.
2) brake piston caliper seals
3) rear brake wheel cylinder seals
4) various stuff with an old car (e.g., U-joints)

Have fun!!!

You could do way worse than that 340 replacement cam.

 

[496 polara]

If you can do the work yourself you are well ahead. Even if you are paying someone a cam and lifter swap with new timing chain and valve springs should be within your budget. Having the distributor recurved is a must in my book.

Or you could look around for a good running 360 that would be a candidate for a cam swap. Whatever you do be sure to drive it and enjoy it instead of letting it becomes the never ending project. Ask me how I know.

 

[Geoff 2]

Find the '128 rule' on the web. And use that to calculate the reqd LSA for your cam.

 

[451Mopar]

The dual exhaust, 4-bbl carb and intake should get you about 30 HP with the stock cam. Tuning will be important. Look at the FBO re-curve kit: FBO Ignition - Home of the HRR688
First, the headers are pricy for headers that wrap under the drivers side tierod. The tubes get damaged easely on speed bumps. Stiffer Torsen Bars will help node dive and handling.
Second, Good choice on intake and carb. The throttle and trans kick down linkage usually are an issue when swaping the intake and carb. You will want the chrysler throttle lever adaptor for the carb. On your model, I'm not sure how long the throttle cable is? Many times the new intake moves the carb a bit forward and the throttle cable is too short although it can usually be made to work. Same with the Kick-down rod usually needs to be extended. Usually the stock throttle cable is in bad shape if its original, so I replace it. The Lokar kit with throttle cable and cable kickdown is decent and makes the swap easier, but the kit needs better instructions for the install.
Third, has the engine been rebuilt? what condition are the heads and timing chain in? Asking to figure out if the heads need valve seat or guide work. At the minimum, I would replace the valve springs and the valve stem seals at the same time.
Forth, the cam. With the stock torque converter, you should stay on the smaller duration side like around 260 advertised, 210 @ 0.050".
If you get up around 220 @ 0.050" duration your at the point where at least a factory Hi-stall converter should be used. Beyond that an aftermarket hi-stall converter should be used.
I like the Hughes Engines Mopar cams. More lift and area under the lift curve, so usually get as much or more power than the competition next size larger cam, but with better low rpm torque. The SEH0610AL-13 would be great for something that gets driven on the street alot.
If you get their lifters, springs and break-in oil they have a "no flat tappet guarantee". No, I don't get anything for recommending them.
Wrap this up with the timing chain set. I usually use at least a 3-Way adjustable keyway timing set to help when degreeing the cam. Mopar used to sell off-set cam keys for degreeing the cam, but I'm not sure if they still sell them? Summit says not avaliable: Mopar Performance P5249600 Mopar Performance Cam Keys | Summit Racing

 

[Airwolf222b]

I spoke with summit yesterday. Based on my current setup they recommended this Cam. Have any of you ever tried this one? He said I wouldnt have to do anything to the car other than install the cam, that my particular engine, compression and current parts would all work together great.

 

[toolmanmike]

I spoke with summit yesterday. Based on my current setup they recommended this Cam. Have any of you ever tried this one? He said I wouldnt have to do anything to the car other than install the cam, that my particular engine, compression and current parts would all work together great.

Not a bad cam. The 110° lobe separation will give it some chop at idle but it won't produce a lot of vacuum. 114° would be better if you have power brakes.

 

[YY1]

If it's a real RR, it's already got dual exhaust.

I'd do the Summit cam I posted (6900) before the one just above.
It's a more modern profile and better for factory exhaust manifolds.

 

[YY1]

Wait, I see you have headers.

 

[71Beeper]

If you do get that cam from Summit you should confirm that the 318 has at least a 9:1 compression.