Another Running HOT Thread

[RJRENTON]

F Dave, fast flow, friction, the heat it adds while dissipating nothing... wtf do we know. Ever put too small size of lines on a backhoe hydraulic system and stuck you hand on a metal section. Laminar, turbulent flow, wft do I know !

Perhaps you should review the excellent works of "CRANES FLOW OF FLUIDS" which analysis the phenomenon of turbulent flow vs laminar flow or the differentiation of the Reynolds number criteria. YES.... AIR, is considered a fluid.....The other factors to be considered are velocity heat, friction head, total system pressures, viscosities of the pump age. Fouling factor must also considered as well, as it has a tendency to slow the overall velocity effect. BTW.....what's the differential point between laminar flow vs turbulent flow. Velocity is key as we're moving BTU/HR, from a HOT AREA to a Cold area......remember.....in order to accomplish work, you must flow down a temperature gradient,
it's not a matter of a collapsed lower rad hose, a 1/8" diameter hole in the tstat valve plate or whether coolant recovery is present or functional. Learn how things work...and why....don't just take the word of the inexperienced........just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Stumper]

Based on that, I have to ask why you changed radiator, water pump and what the stock thermostat temp was? Were you chasing a heat issue already? What did you change, if anything before the cooling system changes.

The radiator is the one that was in the car when I got it, no change. I took it out when I had to pull the front apart to check the timing chain. Figured while it was apart I’d replace the pump and all. The price difference between high flow and stock was so low I went with the high flow. I had run warm on occasion before (not like this) so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to flow more.
The flush was a classic driveway job…

 

[j-c-c-62]

it's not a matter of a collapsed lower rad hose, ............................................... Learn how things work...and why....don't just take the word of the inexperienced........just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

Not many "inexperienced" note a potential collapsed lower radiator hose as a potential area of concern, from my experience.

Learn me/us on how you know it's not a lower radiator hose issue.

Any I question the "Velocity is key as we're moving BTU/HR", its air mass that is the key over time in our applications.

 

[Stumper]

I know there’s a spring in my lower hose as I replaced both hoses last year too.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Well that is what helps prevent lower hose collapse at high speed. However, that alone does not prove the hose is not 100% collapsing at any one point, which would make the restriction of coolant flow.

 

[RemCharger]

Well that is what helps prevent lower hose collapse at high speed. However, that alone does not prove the hose is not 100% collapsing at any one point, which would make the restriction of coolant flow.

Agreed. But not about the collapsing part. The hose can be kept from collapsing, but the true issue is radiator flow restrictions. A pressure/ vacuum gauge in the lower rad hose would prove radiator performance.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Agreed. But not about the collapsing part. The hose can be kept from collapsing, but the true issue is radiator flow restrictions. A pressure/ vacuum gauge in the lower rad hose would prove radiator performance.

Yes, on the collapsing part of course, but to be 100%, it would need to be verified, and the spring alone is not a 100% guarantee the hose is not collapsing somehow.

Or an overrated/over driven water pump for the cooling system, meaning all radiators of any condition have some restriction.

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

My suggestion would be find a 62 savoy metal 2 pc shroud they put on AC cars. And don't worry about heater hoses being capped, they are dead ends. They basically function like a water hammer attenuator.

 

[matthon]

Pulling the plugs to flush the block is a pretty radical step that I’d like to avoid is possible.

The threaded plugs on either side?
I pulled mine and drained/flushed the block last time I pulled the radiator.

Doesn't antifreeze degrade over time anyway?

 

[j-c-c-62]

The threaded plugs on either side?
I pulled mine and drained/flushed the block last time I pulled the radiator.

Doesn't antifreeze degrade over time anyway?

The one's that sell it say that.
Any idea what indicates it has "degraded" enough to be worth draining?
I suspect ethylene glycol does not decompose.

 

[matthon]

Any idea what indicates it has "degraded" enough to be worth draining?

Not I.
I heard it can be tested.

I drained because I had the opportunity and I r&r the radiator.

 

[1967coronet]

Switch that 13lb cap for a 16, run your coolant level 1" to 1 1/4 below the radiator fill opening.
Make sure all your road speed air is channeled were its needed. Good seals at the cowl , and radiator support ect.
Anything blocking air flow like a trans cooler ect ?

 

[moes]

an old guy that worked at a radiator shop many years ago told me that you have a better chance of keeping your coolant cooler with a greater flow rate through your radiator (which is a heat exchanger) and exiting the system than holding it in your radiator while generating heat in your engine block.

 

[RJRENTON]

Not many "inexperienced" note a potential collapsed lower radiator hose as a potential area of concern, from my experience.

Learn me/us on how you know it's not a lower radiator hose issue.

Any I question the "Velocity is key as we're moving BTU/HR", its air mass that is the key over time in our applications.

Since the cooling system is presuerizd, to some extent, via the 16# (13#) radiator cap, there is physical phenomenon that all aspects of the system are pressurized, to the same alue, including all he components of the system.....upper, lower ,heater hose, block and heads.....to the same value, depending on overall surface area (#'s / square jnch). And at normal operating conditions, the lower radiator hose is subjected to overall nominal system pressure. IF AND ONLY IF THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE IS SOFT AND FLABBY AND AT EXTREMLY HIGH FOWS COULD IT PARTIALLY COLLAPSE. BUT DUE DUE TO MODERN PHYSICAL HOSE COMPOSITION. THS IS HIGHLY UNLIKELY TO OCCUR (with/without the spring. Old wives tale #3. The phenomenon is called suction pressure. Trite explanations just don't cut it, in spite of what the general populist believes..........just my opinion of course......others will likely disagree.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Geoff 2]

Flushing an old radiator will not always remove the debris that has lodged in the tubes over the years. If all the 'normal' fixes have been tried, then to eliminate the rad as the cause of o'heating it should be taken to a rad shop to be rodded out.......Or......if the rad is very old.......buy a new alum rad which will be more efficient & less likely to block up because the tubes are wider.

 

[j-c-c-62]

BUT DUE DUE TO MODERN PHYSICAL HOSE COMPOSITION. THS IS HIGHLY UNLIKELY TO OCCUR (with/without the spring. Old wives tale #3. The phenomenon is called suction pressure. Trite explanations just don't cut it, in spite of what the general populist believes..........just my opinion of course......others will likely disagree.......
BOB RENTON

I disagree. Not sure if every 60? year old car has a modern composition lower hose. An old "flabby hose" we agree then can collapse with adequate feed side suction, internal pressure builds with heat and time, suction however exists upon start up, and that potential hose collapse is the primary reason the internal spring exists in the first place?
"Trite" is not my concern, overly broad is.

 

[PlymouthMakesIt]

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.........VELOCITY OF THE COOLANT (either thru the block & heads AND thru the radiator) is the secret to best heat transfer. According to the fundamentals of Thermodynamics (Q (heat) = M (mass flow, in terms of Btu/Hr) x Cp (specif heat characteristics of the coolant) x delta T (temperature differences of both air flow and coolant) and ambient temperature. It's obvious you do not believe in this aspect but continue to believe in old wives tale #3, that the coolant must move slow thru the radiator. I can explain the fundamentals of Thermodynamics and heat transfer.......if you're interested......
BOB RENTON

That's not the reason people think that. If you spin the water pump too fast, if the pulley ratio is wrong or the impeller angle is too steep, it will cause cavitation and actually flow less coolant at higher speeds.

 

[RJRENTON]

That's not the reason people think that. If you spin the water pump too fast, if the pulley ratio is wrong or the impeller angle is too steep, it will cause cavitation and actually flow less coolant at higher speeds.

Incorrect assumption...
Define cavitation....not impeller angle but NPSH (Ner Positive Suction Head) required in pumps design .Some pumps use inducers to prevent cavatation. Consult Goulds Pump Manual for an explanation.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Dz7q22]

You said you added a high flow water pump. There is such a thing as pumping the coolant so fast that it does not remain in the radiator long enough to loose as much heat as it needs too.

Lose heat.

 

[qkcuda]

I will add my personal experience. I replaced the original 361 with a new 400 in my Charger, and I needed a drivers side exit for the lower rad hose so I bought a Mancini aluminum pump housing and high volume pump. Everything else in the cooling system was the same right down to the thermostat. My car acted like yours and would overheat and puke coolant in less than 10 miles. I pulled it apart and replaced the pump with the original from the 361. So far I have driven the car three times and the temperature is back in the normal range. I am not here to argue thermodynamic theory. I have no idea why the high volume pump did not work. I am posting from actual experience.