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62 Belvedere 318 poly granny cruiser (one day i hope)

yeah i got the spring kit.. $50 for 8 springs... that helped a ton though

I might just put a wanted ad on both forums.. someone might have a kit laying around
and jet's and rods they didn't use. Sad to pay $150 for a kit so you have every combination you may need and after you get it dialed in, you only use a pair of each. :BangHead: :rofl:
 
and jet's and rods they didn't use. Sad to pay $150 for a kit so you have every combination you may need and after you get it dialed in, you only use a pair of each. :BangHead: :rofl:
$250 for every combo :) The 750 kit comes with half the stuff the 650 kit comes with.. same price too..not sure the 750 would lean it enough..

The 750 kit basically gives you 1 richer and 2 leaner than stock.. they should have made it so it used edelbrock needles and seats but that would mean less profits :) Rear jets are normal holley
 
$250 for every combo :) The 750 kit comes with half the stuff the 650 kit comes with.. same price too..not sure the 750 would lean it enough..

The 750 kit basically gives you 1 richer and 2 leaner than stock.. they should have made it so it used edelbrock needles and seats but that would mean less profits :) Rear jets are normal holley
Lean it with fatter rods or smaller jets. (you knew that) I don't know which direction would be better actually.
 
Lean it with fatter rods or smaller jets. (you knew that) I don't know which direction would be better actually.

yeah.. i'm not too worried right now.. i have quite a few things to fix on the car.. just thinking out loud..
 
yeah.. i'm not too worried right now.. i have quite a few things to fix on the car.. just thinking out loud..
I have a Weiand and a 650 AVS2 waiting in the wings for my Poly but my 2 barrel runs pretty good so I may just keep that combination.
 
I have a Weiand and a 650 AVS2 waiting in the wings for my Poly but my 2 barrel runs pretty good so I may just keep that combination.

yeah.. your car is what i wanted to build when i started... just wanted to do a cruiser.. i might drop the 3.55s over winter.. or 3.23s.. not sure yet
 
I pulled an Avenger off my wagon. That turd just would not respond to jetting changes, would get fatter even though I went with smaller jets. Had the four hole idle screws, couldn't get it squared away. Found an old 3310-2 at the Van Nuys event last year. Went through it, works way better.
 
I pulled an Avenger off my wagon. That turd just would not respond to jetting changes, would get fatter even though I went with smaller jets. Had the four hole idle screws, couldn't get it squared away. Found an old 3310-2 at the Van Nuys event last year. Went through it, works way better.

Yeah, i did some reading and guys on other forums talking bout replacing the metering plates to get them to work better.. at $260.... crazy
 
I left mine as is with the existing plate in the back. There were versions that came with blocks, or you could add them. One thing the AFB's and brethren have over the Holley and its cousins. There are NO passages for junk to get stuck in, unlike Holley. If you get crud in a metering block, it's a battle to get out. Ultrasonic tanks are very helpful on this. You can buy metering blocks new from Holley, but only for certain LIST numbers. Probably fat chance on an older 3310. The best thing you can do if running a Holley, provided it's not already blessed with a bad block, is be very diligent on fuel filters. Rust will get by every filter on the market and get embedded in the blocks. However...rust won't get by a magnet. On the wagon, I have a Mopar trans pan magnet on the filter inlet. Metal WIX. The magnet is about 2" od with like a 1" id hole in the center.
Back in the late 70's, I was running a six pack on my 73 340 Duster. Bought the carbs new. The primary was a problem child from the get. I lost count of how many times I pulled the primary carb off to blow out the block. Put it back together, would run fine for about 10 minutes, then start acting up again. A few years later, my brother put the block into an ultrasonic unit. He said, I was working at the time, that the amount of junk that came out of that block was mind boggling. Worked fine for about an hour, then back to running bad. Later on I ordered up a new block and no more problems.
 
I left mine as is with the existing plate in the back. There were versions that came with blocks, or you could add them. One thing the AFB's and brethren have over the Holley and its cousins. There are NO passages for junk to get stuck in, unlike Holley. If you get crud in a metering block, it's a battle to get out. Ultrasonic tanks are very helpful on this. You can buy metering blocks new from Holley, but only for certain LIST numbers. Probably fat chance on an older 3310. The best thing you can do if running a Holley, provided it's not already blessed with a bad block, is be very diligent on fuel filters. Rust will get by every filter on the market and get embedded in the blocks. However...rust won't get by a magnet. On the wagon, I have a Mopar trans pan magnet on the filter inlet. Metal WIX. The magnet is about 2" od with like a 1" id hole in the center.
Back in the late 70's, I was running a six pack on my 73 340 Duster. Bought the carbs new. The primary was a problem child from the get. I lost count of how many times I pulled the primary carb off to blow out the block. Put it back together, would run fine for about 10 minutes, then start acting up again. A few years later, my brother put the block into an ultrasonic unit. He said, I was working at the time, that the amount of junk that came out of that block was mind boggling. Worked fine for about an hour, then back to running bad. Later on I ordered up a new block and no more problems.

My whole system is new.. but a magnet on the filter isn't a bad idea.. I like this carb, i'm gonna wait til i get a o2 gauge before changing anything..
 
I left mine as is with the existing plate in the back. There were versions that came with blocks, or you could add them. One thing the AFB's and brethren have over the Holley and its cousins. There are NO passages for junk to get stuck in, unlike Holley. If you get crud in a metering block, it's a battle to get out. Ultrasonic tanks are very helpful on this. You can buy metering blocks new from Holley, but only for certain LIST numbers. Probably fat chance on an older 3310. The best thing you can do if running a Holley, provided it's not already blessed with a bad block, is be very diligent on fuel filters. Rust will get by every filter on the market and get embedded in the blocks. However...rust won't get by a magnet. On the wagon, I have a Mopar trans pan magnet on the filter inlet. Metal WIX. The magnet is about 2" od with like a 1" id hole in the center.
Back in the late 70's, I was running a six pack on my 73 340 Duster. Bought the carbs new. The primary was a problem child from the get. I lost count of how many times I pulled the primary carb off to blow out the block. Put it back together, would run fine for about 10 minutes, then start acting up again. A few years later, my brother put the block into an ultrasonic unit. He said, I was working at the time, that the amount of junk that came out of that block was mind boggling. Worked fine for about an hour, then back to running bad. Later on I ordered up a new block and no more problems.
Hah, you made me go look. I did find one... but the price escalation is a bit much... :eek:
Screenshot_20250915_134804_Google.jpg
 
Was gonna re-do my toe-in tonight.. but got home with dinner and laziness grabbed me... time to relax :)
 
Laysons has the whiskers, just ordered them :)
 
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Drove the car to work today.. bout 1.5 miles from home it did the "i'm out of gas thing" pulled over and idled for a few seconds and it picked back up.. drove another 6 miles to work no problem.. Pretty sure it's the fuel pump.. have had some odd noises coming from what i thought was the alt, but the pump is right under it.. a "whocka whocka whocka" sound. have a spare pump in the trunk.. almost tempted to go swap it but don't wanna smell like gas all day..
 
just doing some research.. seems these cheap carters are known to be noisy and die randomly.. And a old style bolt together one is now $200... wtf.. Mancini sells a bolt together one for $86 but it looks like the cheap pump with a flange for screws...

I think i kept my 1962 pump.. thinking bout trying to rebuild that... hell it would probably work if i just bolted it on :)
 
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