Thanks Wayne. So the center link is not symmetrical? Looks like mine is oriented similarly to your picture but I am not sure.
Center link playing violin with headers
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Yours is not the same as Wayne's. Yours looks to be curved towards the oil pan where it should be away from the pan. Usually the ones on wrong will also be very close to the oil pans drain plug.
So do you think mine is “wrong” because its 180 out or upside down?
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I'd say you're 180 out..
Had posted this exact problem a year or so ago on my '63 mentioning the violin too. This was after installing a FFII box. When on a lift we noticed the pitman zerk was sheared off and some marring on the torsion bar, the center link looked slightly unlevel. We tried a new pitman and it solved the problem, some of the suspension had been replaced; but not the pitman so it was original. Ordered a USA one from a vendor on here, I think mobileparts? Good guy to do biz with.
It can only go on 2 ways. Yours is wrong. So put it on the other way . As others have tried to tell you.
So was it your pitman arm that caused this? I am using my original pitman arm but my idler arm is new. The geometry of these components can cause an issue like this and with all sorts of shitty manufacturers and vendors this poor fitment happens all the time in this industry.
The reason I am asking so many questions about the orientation is I don’t have a lift AND I have a spinal condition that makes this work very painful and difficult. So knowing what needs to be done before I get in there minimizes the time.
Was thinking some shimming was necessary, but my friend having more experience landed on trying a new pitman. Made sense looking at how it looked saggy. Not a big cost and he’s nicely equipped to do the work. The vendor I mentioned said his are made in the USA and not much price difference than I was finding online. I sure liked the made in the USA and buying from a fellow member. All I can say is after a couple thousand miles now the problem is solved. My car has a slightly built poly and TTI headers, a TIGHT fit, very little clearance and TTI was the only place I could find headers. Before the fix, when I would drive a good distance would hear what sounded like a tuning fork noise turning the wheel. Suppose with heat expansion that’s when the link was playing the violin as we say.
There may be other causes as mentioned, but in my case replacing the pitman solved it. Sort of job best done on a lift using compressed air tools. Used a ball joint separator to remove the old arm.
At my age, after two neck fusions, a laminectomy, and a few other surgeries to repair injuries, don't do much laying on my back under a car anymore..
Yup I currently have C6-7 fused with an ACDF Laminectomy. But now C5 is done and collapsing….sucks now I have to stop riding as well. I am actually at the Dr.’s office now lol
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Best of luck to you all the way around!
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Take the end of the center link that is on the driver's side, and put it on the passenger side, while keeping the top side up.
Thanks that’s the most explicit explanation of what exactly I need to do. I appreciate it.
Stupid question. Can I swap the center link with the wheels on the ground? I assume thats fine. I also assume tightening with the wheels on the ground is also ok?
By ground I mean front is up on a ramp……
By ground I mean front is up on a ramp……
You will most likely find it better with the wheels hanging. I would jack it up and put stands on the frame behind the tires. Reason I suggest this is that the tie rods will need to be positioned for access of removal. Having the wheels able to swing left and right will be a must.
Thank you. That makes sense and will save me a lot of hassle from realizing it during the process.
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If you can drive up on some blocks just to get room to work under the car, that should work. Splitting the center link from the 4 connections will be the hard part.
ALL B bodies had a downward dip in center link that also aimed to the rear of the vehicle, never the front.
My '70 Charger suspension design is identical to your '70 Plymouth.
You may need to bump the tires a bit to steer them one direction or the other to get the tie rod ends to line up and fit into the center link but that shouldn't be too hard to do. Make sure the parking brake is engaged!
Thank you KD. I see what you are referring to the center link end pointing to the rear. Looks like mine is pointing to the front. Thanks for the tips!
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