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1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

DeltaV said:
My bad. I had too many windows open and was bouncing back an forth. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

I should have attached a screenshot and gotten it right.

Jeg's p/n: 020-290 for the 1" rear bar

View attachment 1947194
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This is the one I got only for $16 less a few weeks ago.

1763001489245.png
 
DeltaV said:
He now says 3/4" bar, but yeah balance. Test drive. :)
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I'd rather have to much front bar than to much rear bar....

To much rear bar is fun if you have the skills and are paying attention... If not you can be in over your head quickly... Cars set up that way are tail happy... So you've gotta be ready to countersteer if the back end gets loose.. If you drive on ice much it becomes second nature...

To much front bar doesn't do much, till you push really hard then the front end will push, but unless you ignore the signs it won't do anything scary...

Well, as long as the tires aren't from the seventies... Good old Michelin XZX's... Once they started sliding they kept sliding till the car damn near completely stopped.... Terrifying...

Normal tire even back then would squawk & squeal, slip out a little but mostly maintain control.... Not the XZX... Grip, Grip ,Grip... SSSSSSllllliiiiddddiiinnngggg
 
1 Wild R/T said:
To much rear bar is fun if you have the skills and are paying attention... If not you can be in over your head quickly... Cars set up that way are tail happy... So you've gotta be ready to countersteer if the back end gets loose.
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I’m glad I didn’t get the 1” now. Not that I can’t handle a tail happy car, I’d rather not have it breaking loose every time I romp on it. Plus I am rebuilding the motor too, and I won’t be happy with anything less than 600hp. At least that’s my target, but I’m not ready to think about that just yet. The motor is out and at the shop. It hasn’t been torn down yet so I’ll worry about that later. Right know I am concentrating on the suspension for when the car goes back together. Little things like aluminum isolators are an easy replacement now. Not so much if the car gets back together and I decide I wanted to switch them out.
 
So Matt at Firm Feel wants to thank you guys for increasing his revenue stream today. He highly recommends the aluminum isolators, so they have been added to the invoice.
IMG_1255.png
IMG_1253.png
 
RR Fan Dan said:
IPlus I am rebuilding the motor too, and I won’t be happy with anything less than 600hp. At least that’s my target, but I’m not ready to think about that just yet.
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I build engines with my father-in-law now that I am retired (and he built stuff for Kenny Montgomery and worked with Grumpy Jenkins). Trust me when I say that for a street engine you want to build an engine for broad, low end torque. It's a big over simplication, but high RPM horsepower does not matter - you will seldom use that on the street. Lots of low end torque WILL be used on the street and will make your car a pleasure to drive. My 70 Road Runner makes 675 lb ft of torque. On the 2023 Hot Rod Power Tour I got 16.9 MPG on the highway doing 75 MPH average speeds. It is an awesome engine.
Bottom line is talk to your engine builder about goals and how you intend to use your car. Many times, owners will put wild cams and high compression pistons (and more) into an engine and end up with a finicky race engine that runs like crap on the street and needs race fuels to work. Target 10:1 compression max and a roller cam that makes good torque, along with heads that breathe well.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 
HawkRod said:
Lots of low end torque WILL be used on the street and will make your car a pleasure to drive.
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I didn’t forget about the torque. I want the torque to be right in line with HP. My engine builder has a Cutless 442 with a 455 making 1000 Tq. I’m sure he can help me in this department.
 
RR Fan Dan said:
I’ve been working with Matt at Firm Feel to upgrade the suspension on my 74 RR. We are discussing the front torsion bar and he initially recommended a 1.06” replacement bar. I told him I wasn’t racing and I asked him if that would make the ride hard and bumpy. And also asked him what the stock diameter bar was. He said the stock bar was maybe 0.92” and maybe the 1.00” would suit me better. I am looking for opinions and suggestions as what to go with? Is my stock bar 0.92” and will another 0.08” (1.00” bar) make a difference, or should I jump to the 1.06” bar for a 0.14” increase? Or should I keep it stock? The upper control arms are being replaced with Firm Feel, the lower control arms are stock but will have reinforced bars added. A 1-1/4” Firm Feel sway bar kit is also being added.
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Just barelly noticed this thread. Won’t read all the thread but just share my experience.

I got the 1.06 from FF and that allowed me a lower ride height with about about same stock stiffness. Lower ride height with stock bars would make it bounce a lot. But the spring rate is also related to the weight to hold. 1.06 for big block, never for small block

The stiffening ride is not just the T-bars… needs to be accompanied with higher compression Shock Absorvers. And 73/74 got a small chart of options for that.

When money is enough I’ll go with RCD (Bilstein) shocks. Right now I have the only KYB option for us in front… nothing more that around the same stock specs, but on a quality brand.

On a side note… I kept the stock Big Block sway bar (15/16” I think it is?, but NOS.
 
I believe that’s the same HOK green I used many years ago on a custom Toro twister hood I built. It’s a pretty color in the sun for sure if it’s the same

IMG_9329.jpeg


IMG_9308.jpeg
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
When money is enough I’ll go with RCD (Bilstein) shocks. Right now I have the only KYB option for us in front… nothing more that around the same stock specs, but on a quality brand.
Click to expand...
I got the RCDs for the rear and kept KYB excels for up front. The RCDs will work for the front but you need to modify the LCAs to make them fit. Being as there are no replacement LCAs for 73/74 and used ones are hard to come by, I don’t want to take the chance of messing them up. The KYB excels are good shocks I have no issues using them.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Merging

73/74 RR Torsion Bar Question and Opinions

1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades
 
RR Fan Dan said:
Is that Kandy? Mine will be Kandy.
Click to expand...
I did all of these twisters about 7 years ago and I’m not 100% that was a Kandy color, I believe it was. At that time I had a complete sample collection of all of HOK’s colors, they were in something like 1/2 pint containers so I experimented with several wild colors for the carts I did. At that time or atleast from the selection I had, this was the only similar green I believe. If I have some time I will try to go thru an old paint cabinet I have with some odd ball stuff in it and see if I possibly still have any left in a labeled container
 
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