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Ten Rules for Maximum Cooling

Hmmm.
Often overheating issues are the result of:
a. Lean fuel mixture
b. Incorrect timing

For our legacy Mopars...
Note that I am not a supporter for electric fans,
as adding these require wiring and charging system upgrades
due to the increased amperage of the electric fans. A
couple of electric fans can draw up to 30 amps, pretty close
to the charging capacity of the entire Mopar factory system. Next
turn on the head lites and the total amperage load exceeds
factory limits....


Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
Hi everyone. I’ve read through all the posts—very insightful, so thank you. I do have a scenario I’d like some perspective on.

I’m running a 440 RB block with FiTech EFI (mentioning this because it hasn’t been professionally tuned yet, and a previous comment mentioned that a lean mixture can cause higher temps). I’m also watching coolant temperature on the FiTech handheld. The car has dual electric fans and a larger aluminum radiator.

On the highway, temps stay around 150–175°F, and in traffic it’s usually 190–200°F. The issue is after I shut the car off: the temperature climbs to around 220–226°F, and I can hear the coolant boiling while the engine is off. The radiator and cap are new. I don’t recall the exact thermostat deg, but the boiling only happens after shut-down. There’s no heater core—those ports are plugged at the water-pump housing—and I have a hose running to an overflow tank.

How can I address the post-shutdown boiling? Is it actually a problem? It bothers me.
 
Where are you reading the temperature?
With a decent radiator cap, and coolant mix, it shouldn't be boiling at 225. Or 240.
Off the electric fuel injection hand held LCD console. The EFI has a sensor that I have in a port on the back of the intake. Now thinking about it I think I bought the radiator cap. Is there a recommended one?
 
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