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Charger vibrating at highway speed.

If it goes away with the weight off the weels it's pinion angle.... makes a shushing that pulses through the whole car at a certain speed when the car is cruseing but not when accelerating or deceleration.... if you can drive through it it's pinion angle 99% of the time. If you're rear springs are 10 years old and or over 50,000 miles they sag and loose the strength up setting the pinion angle which is common to all rwd mopar s....
 
It's hard for pinion angle to change with out something obvious showing like a broken spring or something. I'm assuming the car at some point did not vibrate.


Do you know if the drive shaft company balanced it with the slip yoke on? It's a common problem lots of these guys don't have the chuck to hold the slip yoke, so they balance the main shaft with out it on, then install it. If you don't know, ask them, and if not find someone who does. The guy who does mine ends up making a mark with a set screw on the bearing surface, it doesn't hurt anything, but you can tell it was chucked up with the yoke.
 
This cross member is what Street Fighter is describing. His question about the torsion bars really threw me, but this is what he is dealing with.
So what is the procedure for the removal of the cross member with torsion bars attached?

Thanks RC for the pics!
 

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Back of the tension on the bars and hope there not frozen in their sockets put a trans jack under the trans and separate the mount from trans and pull out the cross member the bars will want to come with the member or one may stay in the car and one on the member it's mopar's attempt to make a one time use disposable charger these year cars had plastic timing gears and numerous other odd to it self stuff it is not something I would want to do again or be with in range of flying wrenches... the bitch is getting the member to stay square as the bars are removed evenly or it will bind and all ready frozen bar if pulling one torsion bar is bad enough.. have some one ready to catch falling pieces.... it could take 8 hours to move an inch and a slight tap and it will fall out or have the bars fall out once it's freed.... I would use a port a power to help it a long... for the most part the bars hold it in under tension if you ever got one out with the bars cranked up it would want to take you're head off once it sprung free.... it's been 20 years since I helped do one so I may have missed a step or two but it took us about 8 hours to get it out in a professional shop.... a back yard or shade tree would have his hands full

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I would pull the motor and then the transmission before tackling that job...
 
So, if you have a trans problem on a '73, you would typically pull the engine & trans out together to get at the transmission?
 
I had a converter nose sticking in the crank shaft. Car would vibrate badly as things sped up. Searched and searched. Pulled the flex plate loose from the converter and the tranny had to be backed out to get the converter to spin free. If all else fails pull the flex plate loose and see if the converter is free.
 
opus65 said:
I had a converter nose sticking in the crank shaft. Car would vibrate badly as things sped up. Searched and searched. Pulled the flex plate loose from the converter and the tranny had to be backed out to get the converter to spin free. If all else fails pull the flex plate loose and see if the converter is free.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't this cause a vibration when ran in neutral or park? He doesn't have a vibration when doing this.

I really think that his vibration is a axel bearing. Not that hard to change and it wouldn't hurt to change because if their age anyway.

The other issue is a leaking tail shaft because of a bushing that's installed wrong. Take it back to the shop that did this or if too much time has passed, take it to whatever shop to have it done or tackle it yourself.
Tackling it yourself consists on loosening the torque rods to remove the cross member, or removing engine and trans together. Which is harder? I would probably deal with removing the torque rods. Follow proper removal procedure, replace with new bushings while you're at it...
 
RECHRGD said:
Have you tried getting rear up on jack stands and running it up to speed to see if you get the drone while not on the road. Just sit in the seat and you should feel the same vib at the same speed in the seat of your pants. If it's still there, take off the wheels and repeat. If it's still there, take off the brake drums and repeat. Just one way to eliminate a wheel or brake drum issue....
Click to expand...
I will be trying that soon.

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I am glad that everyone see what I am dealing with everybody was telling me it will come right off after you remove the tail bolts and snap ring. I have done a torsion bar replacement and I don't want to do it again at my age.I work on my own cars as much as I can so I will be pulling the trans again I can get it out in about 2Hrs. and 2 and some going back. Once I solve this seal problem I will be getting back to the drone feeling.

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I am glad everyone see what I am up against, I looked at how hard it would be to get the tail out before I removed the trans the first time. I believe that I am a pretty good spotter for short cuts and pulling the trans to me is MY best way, I can get it out in about 2hrs or less. and about the same going back.I have done a torsion bar removel and it was not anything I care to do again at my age.as soon as I get this problem solved I will be getting back on the drone or vibrating in the car.
 
Good deal. That cross member set up is unusual. You don't give it a thought unless you've done one before or own one. Keep us up to date!
 
I just helped a buddy change the tailshaft bushing on his 68 Dart. Pulling the tailshaft off in the car wasn't a bad job at all.
 

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Yes but Street Fighters cross member isn't the same. Mar Mopar pulled a boner in '73 with a different design! Im glad I haven't had to deal with one like that yet!
Notice the short piece under the tailshaft, with the four 1/2" bolts, isn't there in the '73. It's all one piece...
 
Richard Cranium said:
So, if you have a trans problem on a '73, you would typically pull the engine & trans out together to get at the transmission?
Click to expand...

Correct it was designed to be a dealer service only trick and an expensive one

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Richard Cranium said:
I just helped a buddy change the tailshaft bushing on his 68 Dart. Pulling the tailshaft off in the car wasn't a bad job at all.
Click to expand...

No not at all on a 68 dart but we're working on a '73 charger... Apple's and oranges

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khryslerkid said:
Yes but Street Fighters cross member isn't the same. Mar Mopar pulled a boner in '73 with a different design! Im glad I haven't had to deal with one like that yet!
Notice the short piece under the tailshaft, with the four 1/2" bolts, isn't there in the '73. It's all one piece...
Click to expand...
A big Boner to **** you with...
 
66chargerpat said:
Maybe I miss it, are you changing the bearing and the bushing too? P
Click to expand...
Just the tail bushing. The trans is a TCI trans with less than 5,000 miles.After taking it to have the tires balanced one of the guys at the shop said that he believed that the tail housing bushing was gone but after getting it out that was not the problem, Took tail housing to shop to install bushing and they did not put it in the way tci said they should have done it which is now causing the trans to push trans fluid pass the yoke.bearing was good.
 
Just wanted to tell everyone that put up their post to help me with my problem. I found the problemS.Just as I stated the tail housing bushing was put in wrong which caused the trans to spin trans fluid out of the rear seal.I am so glad that I noticed what I was doing when I removed the bushing,I told the guy at the shop that installed it in the housing it was wrong but he and other trans guys said it didn't matter, on a stock trans it my not, but the trans I have is a TCI unit and it was tci tech that told me that it was the bushing placed wrong in the housing, I installed it myself this time and I have no more fluid leaking.I also found that the left drivers side brake line had broken on the inside causing the brake to stay holding the wheel which caused the drone or vibration I felt when I got up to 50 mph or over.everything seems to be good but I am on it to stay for a while so I will be going everything it needs before I put it back to rest. THANKS.
 
Great!
I'm sure you're feeling some self gratification. We're all taking some notes on this one...
 
see...that wasn't that hard to find!!!....j/k....glad you found it
 
weird cause, bad brake line, thinking outside the box, sometimes helps too, never thought of that one....
stored in my memory banks...
thanks for the update Street fighter
 
I didn't read all the posts but my Duster was vibrating at highway speeds and went away when I replaced the torque converter. just my experience.
 
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