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What's the right amount of torque for new style 727 trans pan gasket?

themechanic

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The FSM says to torque the 727 trans oil pan gasket bolts to 150 in/lbs.

I bought the new rigid 727 trans oil pan gasket with double row rubber o-ring seals. I have read that 150 in/lbs is too much and causes leaks and that 115 in/lbs is better for this gasket.

Anyone here with real experience with these gaskets? What did you torque yours to?
 
Jegs did not make the gasket and if they can not tell you who did I would quite buying from them. Someone has tested this product and will know. The manufacture's reputation stands on the products they make and they should be happy to answer your question. Please post and let us know how this turns out. I refuse to buy from business than can not or will not answer questions or try to find solutions to problems.
 
Those same/similar gaskets are in use on modern mopar trannys ... check the torque specs for those
 
Jegs did not make the gasket and if they can not tell you who did I would quite buying from them. Someone has tested this product and will know. The manufacture's reputation stands on the products they make and they should be happy to answer your question. Please post and let us know how this turns out. I refuse to buy from business than can not or will not answer questions or try to find solutions to problems.

I deleted my post about JEGS not having torque specs for the trans pan gasket. You are right, they do not make or sell this gasket. They do sell a big block windage tray that has similar construction to the trans pan gasket.
 
I've used these gaskets tons of times, never used torque spec. Use good judgement and tighten the bolts snug. I have never had one of those leak, they don't need to be super tight!
 
Those same/similar gaskets are in use on modern mopar trannys ... check the torque specs for those

Specs for the newer cars/trucks is 12-13 ft/lbs (150in/lbs). I tried 120 in/lbs with the new gasket and it leaked; tried 150 in/lbs and it still leaks in the front. BTW, all other seals are new and the pan is aluminum B&W with a smooth flange.

Should I try loosening all the bolts and just snugging them like 65-440 suggests?
 
Specs for the newer cars/trucks is 12-13 ft/lbs (150in/lbs). I tried 120 in/lbs with the new gasket and it leaked; tried 150 in/lbs and it still leaks in the front. BTW, all other seals are new and the pan is aluminum B&W with a smooth flange.

Should I try loosening all the bolts and just snugging them like 65-440 suggests?


My .02 cents says yes. I've always been told and read these things about trans pans and sealing

- The mating surface on the trans should be absolutely microscopically (exaggeration but very) clean and dry
- The mating surface of the pan should be equally clean and absolutely free of bends and flat
- Tighten very little .. just snug and a 1/4 turn or so then check later and check after driving to see if still snug
- After putting it together and tightening let it set for at least 24 hrs (esp if using a sealant)

some like to use a sealant and let that set up, I've heard these gaskets don't need and maybe don't like sealant

I wish you luck ;)
 
The gasket is re-usable. What about re-using new fluid that's been through one heat cycle in the garage before the leak was discovered?
 
The gasket is re-usable. What about re-using new fluid that's been through one heat cycle in the garage before the leak was discovered?

Yep that's the beauty .. res-usable. I've read some say they used sealer

I don't know why it would be a problem reusing the fluid if it was new and is still clean but someone else might.
 
The fluid has a small amount of contamination. There is a greenish slick on top in the drain pan. I just installed a re-cored radiator. Could that be the problem?
 
If the fluid has coolant/water init do not reuse. Other than that I've reused fluid after repair many times. The reusable gasket needs no sealer but they do not always seem to seal well with the old style 727 pan, for those I use the stock cork with a nut driver used to tighten the pan. They work perfect with the new style 518 style pan, I use a 1/4" ratchet just snug is all they need. Just go around 3 times until they all feel the same.
Doug
 
I had Dexron III in the tranny but changed to ATF +4 when I changed the gasket and filter. I didn't drain the torque converter since they are safe to mix. I saw the new gasket was leaking and drained the pan today.

This is what the fluid looks like.

IMG_0408.jpgIMG_0410.jpg

There is no trans fluid in the overflow tank. I had no shifting trouble. Could this be leftover Dex III (non synthetic)mixed with ATF +4 (synthetic) since I did not drain the converter or maybe crap from the new re-cored radiator?
 
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Did they miss something while recoring. That looks like coolant contamination.
 
You could take a 5 gallon bucket and hook up a clear line to the return line going into the transmission. Have it go into the bucket If the fluid is green your radiator is leaking into the trans cooler side of radiator
 
Doh! I just made the Darwin Award's nomination. It was UV dye from a leak detector kit I forgot I put in the trans to find the leak. What a relief. At least I know the dye works. ;)

Here's a photo without and with UV light:


IMG_0414.jpg

IMG_0413.jpg
 
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