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Your thoughts on water pump lube/rust inhibitor?

hunt2elk

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In the latest issue of MA, Ehrenberg makes a statement saying that anti-freeze never wears out, but what does is the additive package (anti-rust, water pump seal lube). So every 2-3 years just add a $2 bottle of the stuff to your coolant and you are good to go. I will admit that replacing coolant in my cars is something that I rarely do. Got me thinking maybe I should pick up some of the stuff and dump it in. Also my oldest son is into Subarus for daily drivers and claims they recommend replacing the coolant every 30k, which he does. I believe Honda recommends every 45k also. Seems like a waste to me if a $2 bottle of something will do the same thing?
 
the additive package is key; whether anti-freeze, oil, etc. the additive package is the sacrificial lamb that keeps things running; eventually it's used up. I believe oil is more critical when it comes to additive package.
 
30 years on same coolant, most of the time sitting. In so nice of shape and the seals still good I just cleaned up and reassembled on my restoration.

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There has been times when I only used the rust inhibitor and lubricant and especially so when I'm 'flushing' the system. I feel you get a better flush by driving it over time but you need at least the lubricant if you want your water pump to survive. Imo, you don't need an antifreeze if living in a warm climate anyways.
 
In the latest issue of MA, Ehrenberg makes a statement saying that anti-freeze never wears out, but what does is the additive package (anti-rust, water pump seal lube). So every 2-3 years just add a $2 bottle of the stuff to your coolant and you are good to go.
Interesting theory.

I will admit that replacing coolant in my cars is something that I rarely do.
I think you are living dangerously.

Also my oldest son is into Subarus for daily drivers and claims they recommend replacing the coolant every 30k, which he does. I believe Honda recommends every 45k also.
One thing to remember though is that all the manufacturers today are using OAT or HOAT coolant. I think GM recommends 5 years or 100K. That scares the hell out of me. I still change it every 2-3 years, ESPECIALLY on the Road Runner, but that is so easy it can hardly be considered chore.
 
On your classic make sure you add a coolant recovery system. Keeping the system filled is key to rust prevention
 
Imo, you don't need an antifreeze if living in a warm climate anyways.
True, but your screwin yourself out of the rust inhibitor's in the system! Now what?
 
Water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, but that’s only if it’s pure, distilled water that’s free from contaminants and minerals that can lower that boiling point substantially.

Most engine coolants/anti-freeze products are based on ethylene-glycol, a form of alcohol that features a boiling point of 387 degrees Fahrenheit. The lower boiling point of water vs. antifreeze means that there’s a higher chance of steam forming inside your cooling system, which considerably reduces efficiency and could cause your engine temp to spike in an extreme situation.

Another issue is corrosion. Over time, if you use tap water inside your car’s radiator, the deposit build-up can seriously impact its operation. Mineral-free distilled water is a safer bet, but you still run into the problem of rust and corrosion forming on metal cooling system components. Coolant/anti-freeze gets around this issue, as the ethylene-glycol does not corrode most metals, providing a protective coating that will extend the life of your engine even during harsh, hot weather. It also contains additives that work specifically to prevent corrosion from taking place, and sometimes your engine manufacturer might specify a type of antifreeze to make sure the necessary additives are used.

It's three basic concerns - heat control, freeze control, and corrosion control.
 
Water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, but that’s only if it’s pure, distilled water that’s free from contaminants and minerals that can lower that boiling point substantially.

Most engine coolants/anti-freeze products are based on ethylene-glycol, a form of alcohol that features a boiling point of 387 degrees Fahrenheit. The lower boiling point of water vs. antifreeze means that there’s a higher chance of steam forming inside your cooling system, which considerably reduces efficiency and could cause your engine temp to spike in an extreme situation.
Boiling point is pretty much irrelevant due to the fact that the system is under pressure. A 50/50 coolant/water mix at 16 psi is going to bring it up to about 267 degrees.
 
Boiling point is pretty much irrelevant due to the fact that the system is under pressure. A 50/50 coolant/water mix at 16 psi is going to bring it up to about 267 degrees.

Basically I was just stating the science behind the system design.
 
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