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Well that tears it .

Tex013

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Finaly got car out of the panel shop and into my shop yesterday .
Time to locate the internal coolant leak .
Motor and trans out last night . Pulled the heads and pan today .
Was crossing fingers it was a bore issue . No such luck .
Cracked #4 web from the cap to water jacket . Cracked along stud thread area .
Lucky as i did put 6 or 8 passes after it showed moisture , and found split head as well . Changed them last month .
Back to old 440 for rest of year .
Damn i need a new cross bolted block , no point doing the same again and risk driving over the crank .
Dont want aluminium just an iron block

Tex
 
Gee Whiz....how much horsepower/torque are you putting that poor block through? Sorry to hear it.
 
Finaly got car out of the panel shop and into my shop yesterday .
Time to locate the internal coolant leak .
Motor and trans out last night . Pulled the heads and pan today .
Was crossing fingers it was a bore issue . No such luck .
Cracked #4 web from the cap to water jacket . Cracked along stud thread area .
Lucky as i did put 6 or 8 passes after it showed moisture , and found split head as well . Changed them last month .
Back to old 440 for rest of year .
Damn i need a new cross bolted block , no point doing the same again and risk driving over the crank .
Dont want aluminium just an iron block

Tex
have you considered using Alum caps on the iron block?
 
I thought I would be ok . Only 11.0:1 comp , conservative tune and only 6000 shift
4.25 stroke with billet steel caps and studs .
Ended up around 680FWHP .
oh well that's racing

Tex
 
sonic check wont tell about the web .
I have run this block since Jan 2017
Just bad luck

Tex
 
Been down this trail as well. But I didnt find it in time. Broke the crank in half when the front 2 main webs pulled out of the block. It's not if a block will break at this power level, it's when. Some will go for years. Personally at your power level a 400 block wouldn't scare me.
Doug
 
rule of thump- iron block- Alum main caps.
Alum block Steel caps, this works with fuel engines.
 
Been down this trail as well. But I didnt find it in time. Broke the crank in half when the front 2 main webs pulled out of the block. It's not if a block will break at this power level, it's when. Some will go for years. Personally at your power level a 400 block wouldn't scare me.
Doug
Doug, I think we all have been down that road a few times with broken engine parts. I agree with your thoughts about "when", kinda like riding a motorcycle, it ain't "if you put one down, it's when". I always keep a spare standard bore block under the work bench.
Bob :moparsmiley:
 
Been down this trail as well. But I didnt find it in time. Broke the crank in half when the front 2 main webs pulled out of the block. It's not if a block will break at this power level, it's when. Some will go for years. Personally at your power level a 400 block wouldn't scare me.
Doug
Glass half full Doug - I didn't drive over the crank .
All my stuff is RB - plus there are not a huge range of blocks floating around here . I will persevere with my old short block 440 . I do have another 440 block but really if I could access a mega/world block I would be on it like flies on sheep **** .
Old short motor now has the TF270 top end and racing hopefully tomorrow

Tex
 
have you considered using Alum caps on the iron block?
Ill let you know how mine works out at the end of the season when I tear it down.

20170823_114655.jpg
 
Ill let you know how mine works out at the end of the season when I tear it down.

View attachment 642654
that looks great, you guys with the big $$$ making me jealous. if the blown fuel 392 in my dragster wasn't a filled block, it would make a great street engine on gas with 6-1 compression and 22% overdrive. don't think I can dig out the blockcrete though
 
Sorry to hear this Tex. Ron
 
Glass half full Doug - I didn't drive over the crank .
All my stuff is RB - plus there are not a huge range of blocks floating around here . I will persevere with my old short block 440 . I do have another 440 block but really if I could access a mega/world block I would be on it like flies on sheep **** .
Old short motor now has the TF270 top end and racing hopefully tomorrow

Tex
If I had it to do all over again I would just bite the bullet and order a ALUMINUM 4 BOLT BLOCK FROM INDY and never look back. Their aluminum block is available everyday to purchase....just write the big check. lol...
From what has been reported the 4 bolt IRON blocks just are not available anymore.
I have a good friend who is currently building a high horsepower motor and he started with an INDY ALUMINUM BLOCK.
On INDY'S website they still list their race motors with the aftermarket STEEL 4 bolt (World ?) block but I don't know if they really have them anymore. If they do they must have stashed a bunch of them when they were available.
 
Hey Mike. Would that RB aluminum Indy block work for 2,000 miles or less per year mostly crusing, some highway, some stop and go, and maybe a couple of nights a month at the 1320 at around 650HP/TQ?
Maybe add 200HP with a properly setup NO2 plate system?
What I'm asking is can it be built and not have to be torn down?
 
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