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Why it's a good idea to consider wiring harness replacement

signalsparks

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Over the last year I've had with the car, my ammeter would regularly dance like a pop star on angel dust and other electrical gremlins. I felt it was time to replace the wiring harnesses. I think I found one of the problems...
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Yep that was the first thing I did when I bought my Bee,50 year old wiring not good. Glad you didnt have a fire.
 
I replaced all the harnesses in mine when I bought it 9 years ago,M&H from year one,the main was a little expensive but exact match worth every penny.
 
Excellent idea! That's why I rewired my whole car!

this is the pile after pulling it out. There were several spots like yours!

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One of the first things I do is throw the whole harness in the trash and buy a universal harness, I don't want that factory spaghetti garbage lol.
 
Inspected closely and put my dash harness back in to save $400.. replaced the over heated and timeX'd engine harness, but did take the time to replace the main bulkhead block and all it's connectors. I have more faith in the original OE copper and wire gauge than a reproduction unfortunately...
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Are all the wiring harnesses Year One sells come from M&H
 
Over the last year I've had with the car, my ammeter would regularly dance like a pop star on angel dust and other electrical gremlins. I felt it was time to replace the wiring harnesses. I think I found one of the problems...

Electrical, must be checked, just like brakes, suspension, cooling system... to stop blaming who is not guilty LOL
 
Inspected closely and put my dash harness back in to save $400.. replaced the over heated and timeX'd engine harness, but did take the time to replace the main bulkhead block and all it's connectors. I have more faith in the original OE copper and wire gauge than a reproduction unfortunately... View attachment 996332

I'm with you... to a point. I checked the gauge on my new M & H harness. It's legit. I also replaced the taillight/fuel gauge harness running under the driver's side sill plate yesterday. As I was coiling up the old one, "crack-crack" the brittle insulation just snapped. Sure, the wires could be 'fine' for another 10-15 years if you just leave it alone. Trouble is, in cars things shake, get hot, get cold, get humid, and get dry. I changed a burnt-out tail light bulb a few weeks ago and the jacket on one of the leads snapped. I had to wire-nut in a new bulb holder.
 
I replaced the engine harness and headlight harness so far in my 1967 Coronet. Both harnesses had numerous splices and other wires added in. In the end I determined that the harnesses had been replaced at some point with a harness from a different car. I still need to work on the interior harnesses.
 
I replaced the engine harness and headlight harness so far in my 1967 Coronet. Both harnesses had numerous splices and other wires added in. In the end I determined that the harnesses had been replaced at some point with a harness from a different car. I still need to work on the interior harnesses.
I have a friend with a 1976 Plymouth Arrow (Mitsubishi captive import) that he'd rigged for autocross. He had an engine fire, and the insurance company was going to total the car until he produced a stack of receipts for the modifications he'd done. He heard nothing until the body shop called and said "come pick up your car!" They'd bought another wrecked car (unknown make/model) and cannibalized it for the wiring harness. It was never right. Too bad he is so electro-phobic he won't touch it. It has been sitting in his garage since 1987.
 
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