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440 Motor Knock

67SniperHockey

67SniperHockey

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Thought I developed an exhaust leak while driving last night - just didn’t sound right. Get home and can determine ticking/knock coming from front passenger side.

Pull #2 spark plug and knock disappears. Ok it’s from there. Pull valve cover - visually inspect rocker arms and push rods on #2 and they *appear* to be ok. Start motor with valve cover off and now sound doesn’t sound like from top of valve train but below - which is why I lifted up the towel as that’s where the sound seems like it’s coming from. Knock disappears when I pull the #2 plug. No exhaust leak before (except small header tick) - crawled underneath and didn’t notice anything unusual with exhaust flange, etc.

This doesn’t seem good - any suggestions from people a lot smarter than I am?
:/
 
Last edited:
Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak from the video. Definitely not a rod knock! 440'
 
440Coronet500 said:
Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak from the video. Definitely not a rod knock! 440'
Click to expand...

I installed the Remflex 6002 Exhaust Gasket earlier this spring and it’s been fine - literally this noise started just last night and only on #2. :/
 
untitled.png

Good Luck
 
Picture of #2 exhaust flange - looks like some tannish discoloration...??

4E883554-74D3-4D63-89ED-B280B6E4471C.jpeg
 
Looks like the gasket is blown out. Take a piece of rubber hose and hold it to your ear. Then other end around the header flange
 
I also only found the same noise source after a close up inspection.
These headers i replaced with a new set from TTI (highly recommended).
I believe welding on these thin tubes will cause new cracks at the edge of the welds when expanding/contracting during temperature differences due to the material property differences that exist between the actual weld and the original material.

IMG_E2762.jpg
 
Wietse said:
I also only found the same noise source after a close up inspection.
These headers i replaced with a new set from TTI (highly recommended).
I believe welding on these thin tubes will cause new cracks at the edge of the welds when expanding/contracting during temperature differences due to the material property differences that exist between the actual weld and the original material.

View attachment 1152033
Click to expand...

They are very thin - not sure what brand they are but I'm not a huge fan of them to begin with. Those TTI's look nice - will do that upgrade whenever I pull this motor out.
 
The brand of the old header is unknown to me, but yes the wall thickness was next to nothing.
These TTI's look good and have a bit more wall thickness then my old ones for sure, plus they are ceramic coated inside and out which hopefully protects it from corrosion for many years to come.

Just a tip, if you but the TTI's they come fully packed in bubble rap, don't throw that away!
When it is time for installation you can wrap the headers again to avoid scratches, you might know (or will find out) that installing an RB engine with headers is a PITA for space.
Specially the ceramic coated, i ended up with a few light scratches but none of them show any rust or so after 8-10 months since installation.
 
Not that you felt like buying new headers but at least the engine isn't hurt
 
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