padam
Well-Known Member
With a diaphragm clutch the pedal should be a little stiff at the top, then kind of collapse as it moves down so it should take very little effort to hold it down. Is that yours feels like?
Suggestions for stock clutch
- Thread starter koosh
- Start date
padam
Well-Known Member
And the flywheel should be ground when the disc is replaced. A flywheel can be re- ground many times.
koosh
Well-Known Member
I believe so, yes
koosh
Well-Known Member
I understand that… but in my case, seller installed a new flywheel with a used clutch
Got it. Works in my Tremec TKO 5 SST.
padam
Well-Known Member
That’s a McLeod clutch so maybe more info on their website.
Whatever clutch you look at you should find out the clamp load so you can compare it to the one you have. Otherwise you could end up with HIGHER pedal effort than you have now.
padam
Well-Known Member
that’s a no-no, could contribute to the chatter problem but not pedal pressure.
And not to rag on 440 source because I’ve never seen one of their flywheels, even a new one should probably be ground. I’ve seen new McLeod flywheels that had a lathe finish. I wouldn’t install one like that.
I think if you have a centerforce in there and nothing is mechanically wrong with it or your linkage, you’re not going to find a clutch with less pedal effort.
You will have to talk seriously with the clutch companies AND look at customizing your linkage.
koosh
Well-Known Member
Appreciate all the info. Im convinced to start all over with new flywheel and clutch assembly. Just need an “easier “ pedal. No racing, no beating on it, judt cruisin
You may want to contact Brewer with your dilemma. May be they have a easy on the knee clutch that can handle your combination. If not, a hydraulic clutch is the way to go. Or an automatic.
Might be a new untapped market on the horizon.. The New GrandpaClutch Kit 
speaking for my future self, of course.
speaking for my future self, of course.
My Centerforce clutch chatters too. Resurfaced Centerforce flywheel, new dual friction disc and pressure plate. It doesn't bother me. Call and talk to Dan at Brewers. You don't happen to know if you have a scattershield? I too have hard to push in clutch pedal. Started when I installed the scattershield. Haven't really tried to figure it out, but I need to. It was smooth and easy with my stock bellhousing.
You should confirm you have the correct fork installed as there are a few different ones depending on the clutch size. If the geometry of the fork is not correct it could increase pedal pressure.
A hydraulic clutch is not necessarily the solution to a stiff clutch. Just like brake systems the relationship between the master cylinder size, pedal ratio and the slave cylinder size or Hyd TO bearing can get complex and entail a bit of trial and error. I’ve had hydraulic clutch systems that were very high pedal pressure - usually in systems with short pedal swing room that necessitated a larger master cylinder. Usually sticking with the manufacturers original clutch linkage system and ensuring all the correct parts are in place, gives the best result.
Also, I’m finding that removing the over-center spring is not always necessary with a diaphragm clutch. The spring does lower pedal pressure but on some clutches it lowers it to the point the clutch won’t come back up off the floor, especially at rpm. But some are stiff enough that they work just fine with the spring in place. I have a diaphragm clutch (of unknown origin) in my 66 that works just fine with the spring in place and has pretty reasonable effort. So, it appears it’s just a trial and error process going to a diaphragm clutch.
Good luck
A hydraulic clutch is not necessarily the solution to a stiff clutch. Just like brake systems the relationship between the master cylinder size, pedal ratio and the slave cylinder size or Hyd TO bearing can get complex and entail a bit of trial and error. I’ve had hydraulic clutch systems that were very high pedal pressure - usually in systems with short pedal swing room that necessitated a larger master cylinder. Usually sticking with the manufacturers original clutch linkage system and ensuring all the correct parts are in place, gives the best result.
Also, I’m finding that removing the over-center spring is not always necessary with a diaphragm clutch. The spring does lower pedal pressure but on some clutches it lowers it to the point the clutch won’t come back up off the floor, especially at rpm. But some are stiff enough that they work just fine with the spring in place. I have a diaphragm clutch (of unknown origin) in my 66 that works just fine with the spring in place and has pretty reasonable effort. So, it appears it’s just a trial and error process going to a diaphragm clutch.
Good luck
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I've never ran a diaphragm setup, but I'd first check the installation instruction for the existing setup. Make sure it's what the mfg. intended.
Then thinking out of the box....
If a stock OC spring is too heavy for your pressure plate, you might consider a lighter OC spring (if you can find one or a compatible) to assist your current pressure plate setup.
With an OC spring, if your pedal travel to release and engage the disc is such that it will not return the pedal to full up, consider relocating the release point so it makes it past OC and the spring pulls the peddle up.
Add a peddle stop to prevent over travel after plate departure is set.
As others mention, depends on the setup. In general, the diaphragm is supposed to be easier…
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