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11 " clutch set up

swampdonkey

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litchfield,me
Anyone have the pleasure of installing an 11" clutch, flywheel, and Bell housing in a 64,65 b body. The z bar assembly geometry has to be modified. Just checking cause that's what I'm about to do I guess 10 1/2"
Is what's surpose to be in one. May have to do a hydraulic set up not sure but I can weld and fabricate pieces if needed.
 
Have the same problem on mine. When the clutch is adjusted properly pushing the pedal to the floor results in the clutch bars contacting the pressure plate bolts. The stock geometry is slightly off and the throughout bearing travels just a tad too far. Thinking about just adding a bar to back of the clutch pedal to restrict it from traveling all the way to the floor. Not sure if that's what I'll do but it should work.
 
Have the same problem on mine. When the clutch is adjusted properly pushing the pedal to the floor results in the clutch bars contacting the pressure plate bolts. The stock geometry is slightly off and the throughout bearing travels just a tad too far. Thinking about just adding a bar to back of the clutch pedal to restrict it from traveling all the way to the floor. Not sure if that's what I'll do but it should work.
Got any photo's I don't think I even have the correct attachment to the Bell housing.
 
I put a Lakewood scatter shield on my 65 Dodge had to modify a Z bar. Cut a section out because of shield and clock the arms. Still need to do a small modification to arm for rod that goes firewall. It is off center, need to make so it's 1/2" more to drivers side.

Cut out section was in middle of Z bar.
 
I put a Lakewood scatter shield on my 65 Dodge had to modify a Z bar. Cut a section out because of shield and clock the arms. Still need to do a small modification to arm for rod that goes firewall. It is off center, need to make so it's 1/2" more to drivers side.

Cut out section was in middle of Z bar.
Thanks for the reply I may have to do at least all that and maybe more.
 
Have the same problem on mine. When the clutch is adjusted properly pushing the pedal to the floor results in the clutch bars contacting the pressure plate bolts. The stock geometry is slightly off and the throughout bearing travels just a tad too far. Thinking about just adding a bar to back of the clutch pedal to restrict it from traveling all the way to the floor. Not sure if that's what I'll do but it should work.
Thanks for the information centerline
 
I have a 1969 11” bellhousing on my car (65 dodge coronet) with an 11” McLeod Diaphram clutch. The Z bar is a 1965 stock Z bar but the bell housing ball is modified. Your diaphram clutch is what’s probably causing the over extension of your clutch fork, happened to me. To fix this you need to make sure to have a clutch fork return spring installed so you can adjust the z bar until 5/32” gap is present between the clutch fork adjuster nut and the bushing. Another method of measurement is to adjust your clutch until 1-1/4” of play Is in your pedal. Measure from the carpet to the pedal then push it down and you should get 1-1/4”. I’ll try to post a picture of where the bellhousing pivot ball is exactly.
 
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The ball is approx 1” or so from the bolt. It looks sketchy with only 1 bolt but it’s been hammered on for 20 years and hasn’t come loose yet. I hope this helped
 
Axemaster awesome information and photo good to know it can be done.
I haven't actually started yet got so much else going on right now but hopefully in the next few weeks.
I'll post pictures of what I've got so far and I know I'LL be mortifying some.
 
Axemaster awesome information and photo good to know it can be done.
I haven't actually started yet got so much else going on right now but hopefully in the next few weeks.
I'll post pictures of what I've got so far and I know I'LL be mortifying some.
Got a temperary bracket for z bar on the bell housingvas far as I've got so far don't have the original for the year.

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