1966 Charger 383 4bbl. Won’t start.

[Father Son 66]

Our 66 Charger. Has a wiring issue for sure. The engine will not crank over with the key. I have a starter button hooked up and will crank over with no problem. It will only crank over with the key if I place a direct hot wire from the battery to the coil. Then it will crank over and start up!!! Just purchased it so that’s all I know. We replaced the starter, and the rewired the neutral safety. And replaced the starter solenoid. Any ideas? Please help!!

 

[Don Frelier]

Fusible link on the starter relay, then bulkhead connector, then ignition switch.
Look up the wiring diagram for it, tough to read but it helps.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Service Manual download at mymopar.com go to tools and reference. If you have a printer, do the pages you need. In a few months you'll have full SM.

I hope not but....

 

[Father Son 66]

Fusible link on the starter relay, then bulkhead connector, then ignition switch.
Look up the wiring diagram for it, tough to read but it helps.

 

[Father Son 66]

Thank you for the help. The ignition switch was replaced prior to us with an aftermarket from Taiwan! I looked for a fusible link and did not see one! But why would it crank over and start only if I direct power the coil? That part has me baffled!! Could the coil positive wire be broken? It appears okay. I tried to ohm test it but can’t find the same color wire going into the firewall?? Plus this has an electronic distributor.

Any idea on quarter panels? Our floors, sheet metal and frame rails are great. Just need quarters. And outer wheel house panels.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Thank you for the help. The ignition switch was replaced prior to us with an aftermarket from Taiwan! I looked for a fusible link and did not see one! But why would it crank over and start only if I direct power the coil? That part has me baffled!! Could the coil positive wire be broken? It appears okay. I tried to ohm test it but can’t find the same color wire going into the firewall?? Plus this has an electronic distributor.

Any idea on quarter panels? Our floors, sheet metal and frame rails are great. Just need quarters. And outer wheel house panels.

If by "crank over" you mean "engine starts up" then regarding the car only staring up using the key if you run a hot wire to the + of the coil sounds like a problem with the brown "start mode" ignition wire circuit not having power. The wire goes from the bulkhead disconnect to the ballast resistor (just like the blue wire does) and the brown is a full 12 volts when the key is in "start" position. It could be the wire, the connection at the bulkhead disconnect of the ignition switch causing this problem.

 

[Father Son 66]

Thanks again, I will test those wires. And check the ballast resistor. I did pull the connection from the firewall and noticed some melting on the bottom. The 3rd or lowest main connection! Not good! If I can find one I may just replace the harness? Also any advise on the best place to search for parts?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Thanks again, I will test those wires. And check the ballast resistor. I did pull the connection from the firewall and noticed some melting on the bottom. The 3rd or lowest main connection! Not good! If I can find one I may just replace the harness? Also any advise on the best place to search for parts?

The ballast resistor itself isn't the problem. You can buy just the plastic "outer plug" for the wiring harness & swap over your wires into it, fixing/cleaning the ends of the wires as necessary.

 

[miller]

The ignition switch was replaced prior to us with an aftermarket from Taiwan!

THAT! Not saying for positive, but...

Starter relay, NSS (neutral safety switch), right on down the line. Even just using a test light, you can probe the wiring, in order, to and from the ignition switch, to find it.
Also, look at the (wiring) bulkhead connectors, at the firewall. Burnt/corroded wires.

 

[Father Son 66]

Thank you!! I appreciate the help!!